Air Cleaner Options for the Nikki Carb
05-29-10, 08:52 PM
#1
Air Cleaner Options for the Nikki Carb
Ok guys, I need you all to dig deep into your bag of tricks on this one. I'm going to delete all the emissions crap on my 85 GS. No big deal, I've done it several times. However, I am looking to replace the stock blue air cleaner also. When I delete the emissions on cars I usually just blow $60 on the Racing Beat air cleaner, but I started wondering today if there is a cheaper alternative? I hate how the stock air cleaner has all those leftover nipples and connections that you don't need. Then you have to cap them all off, it's just not worth all the effort. In the end you are left with a rusty crap air cleaner that has vacuum caps all over it. Buying the Racing Beat air cleaner gives you a nice clean finished look. The only downside, of course, is that you are paying $60 for an air cleaner.
Before I throw down $60 on a Racing Beat air cleaner for the Nikki carb, do I have ANY other options? I looked around on Summit Racing at all the universal air cleaners, but didn't see anything with the right neck size. I believe the neck size on the Nikki carb is about 3.75". Anybody got any money saving tips for me on this?
Thanks,
Jamie
Before I throw down $60 on a Racing Beat air cleaner for the Nikki carb, do I have ANY other options? I looked around on Summit Racing at all the universal air cleaners, but didn't see anything with the right neck size. I believe the neck size on the Nikki carb is about 3.75". Anybody got any money saving tips for me on this?
Thanks,
Jamie
05-30-10, 05:52 AM
#4
one idea I've had is getting one of those aluminium pipe reducers 4" - 6" to attach to the underside, could give a small advantage by increasing velocity through the tapered entrance
05-30-10, 02:14 PM
#7
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the stock air cleaner with a duct to cold air actually WORKS the best. everything else is hot air intake, which is no good
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05-31-10, 01:33 AM
#10
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this is mine done with a $4 hose clamp and $36 Ø100 tubing from a rubber store. its smooth on the inside surface unlike the outer surface. just cut a hole in radiator support and secure under the front of the car... sorry about the photo, only one i have of it, its just a shot with 2 different cameras.
05-31-10, 05:19 AM
#11
in winter even the stock thing without CAI makes my nikki ice up, and that is above 50 degrees farenheit.
anyway you guys are lucky to get those RB intakes for $60, here they're $150 after shipping =(
Last edited by Oneiros; 05-31-10 at 05:23 AM.
06-01-10, 08:41 AM
#14
Lives on the Forum
Billy from Respeed is working on one right now. Not sure if he's got anything ready for release yet, though. You might get in touch with him and volunteer to do some R&D for him and get an early model. 
http://www.iwankel.com/index.php?opt...=483&Itemid=53
.
http://www.iwankel.com/index.php?opt...=483&Itemid=53
.
06-01-10, 01:03 PM
#17
Awesome. This would pair up really nicely with the side radiator sheet metal piece that Billy makes for a cold air connection. Is he thinking about combining the two for some type of packaged system? That would be the best of both worlds. I'm gonna see if I can contact him.
Jamie
Jamie
06-01-10, 07:25 PM
#19
pretty much straight forward man, grab the stock snorkel, mark rectangles leaving the latches so you can hold in your lid and filter in, then cut the rectangles, i used a drill and cutting discs.
then by combining the cutting discs and grinder you can get rid of all the hose adapters on bottom, you'll just need some scrap metal and JB weld or actual weld to cover the holes if you'd like, and paint for a cleaner look.
as far as heat is concerned, i've been running it this summer and only when you're sitting at a stop light, it does seem to warm up faster, but there's also a lot more air flow when moving. but i do agree, it's not as cold as moving it to the front of the car.
then by combining the cutting discs and grinder you can get rid of all the hose adapters on bottom, you'll just need some scrap metal and JB weld or actual weld to cover the holes if you'd like, and paint for a cleaner look.
as far as heat is concerned, i've been running it this summer and only when you're sitting at a stop light, it does seem to warm up faster, but there's also a lot more air flow when moving. but i do agree, it's not as cold as moving it to the front of the car.
06-01-10, 09:41 PM
#20
I raced my RX7 in SCCA Improved Touring. In that class the cars have to draw in air from inside of the engine compartment unless a cold air duct was OE to the car. On an RX7 the stock air filter draws air from the enging compartment so a cold air duct wasn't allowed.
Since IT cars can have an after market or modified stock air filter I tried the Racing Beat filter and a modified stock air filter housing. The modified housing worked better because it allowed me to get air that had not gone through the radiator. In addition to adding a snorkle hose to the stock air filter housing I moved the filter element away from the carb. Dyno testing has shown some gains when the filter element is away from the carb so I used a 3" cone filter on the end of the snorkel. I also insulated the filter housing and air hose to help keep the air as cool as possible.
Later I switched classed to Super Touring and was able to duct in outside air. I pulled in air through the right side of the radiator shroud and through the right turn signal. It worked REALLY WELL. I picked up 2 - 3 seconds a lap with no other changes to the engine.
Some pictures:
You can see where the filter is - at the end of the hose supported by a bulkhead that is between the radiator and the inner fender. This is the IT setup I used for 3-4 years.
Here is the snorkel tube with insulation wrapped around it. The filter housing is also insulated. I modified the stock housing by cutting off the square snorkel and welding in a 3" diameter section of exhaust tubing.
Another shot of the housing. The fuel lines are also insulated with some Mil-spec fire sleeve I pickup at the Run Offs a few years ago. Heat is a bad thing
Since IT cars can have an after market or modified stock air filter I tried the Racing Beat filter and a modified stock air filter housing. The modified housing worked better because it allowed me to get air that had not gone through the radiator. In addition to adding a snorkle hose to the stock air filter housing I moved the filter element away from the carb. Dyno testing has shown some gains when the filter element is away from the carb so I used a 3" cone filter on the end of the snorkel. I also insulated the filter housing and air hose to help keep the air as cool as possible.
Later I switched classed to Super Touring and was able to duct in outside air. I pulled in air through the right side of the radiator shroud and through the right turn signal. It worked REALLY WELL. I picked up 2 - 3 seconds a lap with no other changes to the engine.
Some pictures:
You can see where the filter is - at the end of the hose supported by a bulkhead that is between the radiator and the inner fender. This is the IT setup I used for 3-4 years.
Here is the snorkel tube with insulation wrapped around it. The filter housing is also insulated. I modified the stock housing by cutting off the square snorkel and welding in a 3" diameter section of exhaust tubing.
Another shot of the housing. The fuel lines are also insulated with some Mil-spec fire sleeve I pickup at the Run Offs a few years ago. Heat is a bad thing
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chisted (02-13-22)
06-02-10, 11:28 PM
#22
Why yes it does 
Works too. Really helps with gear changes when you have the engine loaded - keeps the shifter level in it's normal straight up location.
A better option is to mount a torque brace off of the bell housing bolts because is is in the center of all of the engine/trans mounts. On an IT car there isn't anything substantial to attach too back by the firewall with out adding weight and bulk. So I used the strut brace.
Works too. Really helps with gear changes when you have the engine loaded - keeps the shifter level in it's normal straight up location.
A better option is to mount a torque brace off of the bell housing bolts because is is in the center of all of the engine/trans mounts. On an IT car there isn't anything substantial to attach too back by the firewall with out adding weight and bulk. So I used the strut brace.
06-05-10, 01:02 AM
#25
Lives on the Forum
lol, same problem as me. So many great ideas, so little time to implement them.
I have actually figured out how to solve all of the world's energy problems three times now, but I keep forgetting about it by the time I finish my drive home from work.
I have actually figured out how to solve all of the world's energy problems three times now, but I keep forgetting about it by the time I finish my drive home from work.