Aftermarket water temp gauge install adapter fitting
#1
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Aftermarket water temp gauge install adapter fitting
Someone wanted to know how to install a aftermarket temp sensor on a rx-7. Go to autozone and get this metric adapter kit made by Sunpro. Or you can order it here..
Order it here (model CP7574)
Order it here (model CP7574)
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I got mine at Checker (Shucks,Cragen). One of the local stores has a "speed equipment" section. They had it in stock. Another of the same chain "didn't have it, couldn't get it". About $7. Much easier than I'd thought, works great.
#5
nevermind, it say mechanical. Crap, i have an electric. Any ideas?
*EDIT* maybe 7573 will work for me.
which one fits 12a's -
M14 X 1.5 to 5/8" x 1/8" NPT
or
M16 X 1.5 to 5/8" x 1/8" NPT
*EDIT* maybe 7573 will work for me.
which one fits 12a's -
M14 X 1.5 to 5/8" x 1/8" NPT
or
M16 X 1.5 to 5/8" x 1/8" NPT
Last edited by RotaryRyan; 05-28-04 at 11:55 PM.
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i got a sunpro mechanical guage after the electric sensor broke reinstalling it after the rebuild. it came with the necessary adapters for me to install it in one of the threaded holes in the wp housing under the thermostat. just make sure to put some pipe thead tape on them.
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Pull out the sensor in the water pump housing then screw this adapter in. Then screw sensor into adapter. I'm using a electic guage.
To figure out thread pitch, just pull sensor and bring to parts store to measure it if you don't have a tap and die set. That's what I used to measure it
To figure out thread pitch, just pull sensor and bring to parts store to measure it if you don't have a tap and die set. That's what I used to measure it
Last edited by gonzz; 05-29-04 at 12:37 AM.
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Originally posted by gonzz
Pull out the sensor in the water pump housing then screw this adapter in. Then screw sensor into adapter. I'm using a electic guage.
To figure out thread pitch, just pull sensor and bring to parts store to measure it if you don't have a tap and die set. That's what I used to measure it
Pull out the sensor in the water pump housing then screw this adapter in. Then screw sensor into adapter. I'm using a electic guage.
To figure out thread pitch, just pull sensor and bring to parts store to measure it if you don't have a tap and die set. That's what I used to measure it
Also, shouldn't engine temp be best measured near the thermostat?
#10
I know the stock sensor is right under the oil cooler on the engine.
Thats what i thought you guys were talking about.
Like pele asked - Is it alright to do it at the waterpump?
Thats what i thought you guys were talking about.
Like pele asked - Is it alright to do it at the waterpump?
#11
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Yes, thats how I did mine. I used the sunpro adapter for my mechanical temp gauge. Fits correct. The sensor your removing is for the choke. Its the switch that pops the choke off when the engine is warm.
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Originally posted by Rx7carl
Yes, thats how I did mine. I used the sunpro adapter for my mechanical temp gauge. Fits correct. The sensor your removing is for the choke. Its the switch that pops the choke off when the engine is warm.
Yes, thats how I did mine. I used the sunpro adapter for my mechanical temp gauge. Fits correct. The sensor your removing is for the choke. Its the switch that pops the choke off when the engine is warm.
#13
Airflow is my life
Yes and yes.
We keep the fast idle linkage so you can have good cold weather starts. Once you remove the switch the choke hold stops working. What I did on the racecar is to cut off the leads on the switch and splice them together. Then plug it back into the harness. Then the magnet is energized all the time making the choke cable manually operable. I guess a toggle switch right near the magnet could be used to de-energize the magnet once the car warms up so the magnet isint always powered.
We keep the fast idle linkage so you can have good cold weather starts. Once you remove the switch the choke hold stops working. What I did on the racecar is to cut off the leads on the switch and splice them together. Then plug it back into the harness. Then the magnet is energized all the time making the choke cable manually operable. I guess a toggle switch right near the magnet could be used to de-energize the magnet once the car warms up so the magnet isint always powered.
Last edited by Rx7carl; 05-29-04 at 07:49 AM.
#14
http://www.steigerperformance.com/PRODUCTS/sp40002.html
This is what Im using since the SE needs the sensor behind the waterpump for the EGI
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Originally posted by Rx7carl
Yes and yes.
We keep the fast idle linkage so you can have good cold weather starts. Once you remove the switch the choke hold stops working. What I did on the racecar is to cut off the leads on the switch and splice them together. Then plug it back into the harness. Then the magnet is energized all the time making the choke cable manually operable. I guess a toggle switch right near the magnet could be used to de-energize the magnet once the car warms up so the magnet isint always powered.
Yes and yes.
We keep the fast idle linkage so you can have good cold weather starts. Once you remove the switch the choke hold stops working. What I did on the racecar is to cut off the leads on the switch and splice them together. Then plug it back into the harness. Then the magnet is energized all the time making the choke cable manually operable. I guess a toggle switch right near the magnet could be used to de-energize the magnet once the car warms up so the magnet isint always powered.
RacerX7fb, that'd be great for an electric fan control... Might put it in the bottom radiator hose though.
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Originally posted by RacerX7fb
http://www.steigerperformance.com/PRODUCTS/sp40002.html
This is what Im using since the SE needs the sensor behind the waterpump for the EGI
http://www.steigerperformance.com/PRODUCTS/sp40002.html
This is what Im using since the SE needs the sensor behind the waterpump for the EGI
Originally posted by Pele
RacerX7fb, that'd be great for an electric fan control... Might put it in the bottom radiator hose though.
RacerX7fb, that'd be great for an electric fan control... Might put it in the bottom radiator hose though.
#17
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Originally posted by Pele
But you said you remove the choke... So I don't need the choke hold meaning I can remove the entire magnet/cable assembly, right?
RacerX7fb, that'd be great for an electric fan control... Might put it in the bottom radiator hose though.
But you said you remove the choke... So I don't need the choke hold meaning I can remove the entire magnet/cable assembly, right?
RacerX7fb, that'd be great for an electric fan control... Might put it in the bottom radiator hose though.
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Originally posted by onepointone
you dont want to do that, it would be getting a reading of water thats been cooled, not water thats coming out of your engine. you want it to be in the upper hose.
you dont want to do that, it would be getting a reading of water thats been cooled, not water thats coming out of your engine. you want it to be in the upper hose.
If you're stopped, the wind doesn't cool down the water and the fan kicks on till the water cools... Once the water cools, the fan kicks off. Repeat as needed.
You don't want the hot water straight from the engine to keep the fan running when you're on the highway.
Most cars I've seen with temp sensors for the fan in the radiator have it in the lower end tank, near the nipple for the lower hose, or in the block where the lower hose connects to the engine.
Originally posted by Rx7carl
Nope, you still use the cable to control the fast idle function.
Nope, you still use the cable to control the fast idle function.
Perhaps I can replace it with one of those lawnmower throttles... With the rabbit and the turtle on it.
Last edited by Pele; 05-31-04 at 11:55 AM.
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