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Aftermarket water temp gauge install adapter fitting

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Old 05-28-04, 08:43 PM
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Aftermarket water temp gauge install adapter fitting

Someone wanted to know how to install a aftermarket temp sensor on a rx-7. Go to autozone and get this metric adapter kit made by Sunpro. Or you can order it here..


Order it here (model CP7574)
Old 05-28-04, 11:21 PM
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I got mine at Checker (Shucks,Cragen). One of the local stores has a "speed equipment" section. They had it in stock. Another of the same chain "didn't have it, couldn't get it". About $7. Much easier than I'd thought, works great.
Old 05-28-04, 11:32 PM
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SWWWEEEETT now i can get my temp gauge working
Old 05-28-04, 11:34 PM
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Is that for electric or mechanical?
Old 05-28-04, 11:51 PM
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nevermind, it say mechanical. Crap, i have an electric. Any ideas?

*EDIT* maybe 7573 will work for me.

which one fits 12a's -
M14 X 1.5 to 5/8" x 1/8" NPT
or
M16 X 1.5 to 5/8" x 1/8" NPT

Last edited by RotaryRyan; 05-28-04 at 11:55 PM.
Old 05-29-04, 12:19 AM
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i got a sunpro mechanical guage after the electric sensor broke reinstalling it after the rebuild. it came with the necessary adapters for me to install it in one of the threaded holes in the wp housing under the thermostat. just make sure to put some pipe thead tape on them.
Old 05-29-04, 12:25 AM
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Do you have to remove a stock sensor to get it to work? I don't want my stock gauge sitting there doing nothing... Even if it is inaccurate.
Old 05-29-04, 12:35 AM
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Pull out the sensor in the water pump housing then screw this adapter in. Then screw sensor into adapter. I'm using a electic guage.

To figure out thread pitch, just pull sensor and bring to parts store to measure it if you don't have a tap and die set. That's what I used to measure it

Last edited by gonzz; 05-29-04 at 12:37 AM.
Old 05-29-04, 06:56 AM
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Originally posted by gonzz
Pull out the sensor in the water pump housing then screw this adapter in. Then screw sensor into adapter. I'm using a electic guage.

To figure out thread pitch, just pull sensor and bring to parts store to measure it if you don't have a tap and die set. That's what I used to measure it
So whaddya do with the sensor you removed?

Also, shouldn't engine temp be best measured near the thermostat?
Old 05-29-04, 07:05 AM
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I know the stock sensor is right under the oil cooler on the engine.

Thats what i thought you guys were talking about.

Like pele asked - Is it alright to do it at the waterpump?
Old 05-29-04, 07:19 AM
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Yes, thats how I did mine. I used the sunpro adapter for my mechanical temp gauge. Fits correct. The sensor your removing is for the choke. Its the switch that pops the choke off when the engine is warm.
Old 05-29-04, 07:43 AM
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Originally posted by Rx7carl
Yes, thats how I did mine. I used the sunpro adapter for my mechanical temp gauge. Fits correct. The sensor your removing is for the choke. Its the switch that pops the choke off when the engine is warm.
Don't you and Sterling remove the chokes on your carbs? Do they start well in cold weather?
Old 05-29-04, 07:46 AM
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Yes and yes.

We keep the fast idle linkage so you can have good cold weather starts. Once you remove the switch the choke hold stops working. What I did on the racecar is to cut off the leads on the switch and splice them together. Then plug it back into the harness. Then the magnet is energized all the time making the choke cable manually operable. I guess a toggle switch right near the magnet could be used to de-energize the magnet once the car warms up so the magnet isint always powered.

Last edited by Rx7carl; 05-29-04 at 07:49 AM.
Old 05-29-04, 10:50 AM
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http://www.steigerperformance.com/PRODUCTS/sp40002.html

This is what Im using since the SE needs the sensor behind the waterpump for the EGI
Old 05-30-04, 12:22 PM
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Originally posted by Rx7carl
Yes and yes.

We keep the fast idle linkage so you can have good cold weather starts. Once you remove the switch the choke hold stops working. What I did on the racecar is to cut off the leads on the switch and splice them together. Then plug it back into the harness. Then the magnet is energized all the time making the choke cable manually operable. I guess a toggle switch right near the magnet could be used to de-energize the magnet once the car warms up so the magnet isint always powered.
But you said you remove the choke... So I don't need the choke hold meaning I can remove the entire magnet/cable assembly, right?



RacerX7fb, that'd be great for an electric fan control... Might put it in the bottom radiator hose though.
Old 05-30-04, 12:25 PM
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Originally posted by RacerX7fb






http://www.steigerperformance.com/PRODUCTS/sp40002.html

This is what Im using since the SE needs the sensor behind the waterpump for the EGI
does that work for the autometer temp. sender?

Originally posted by Pele
RacerX7fb, that'd be great for an electric fan control... Might put it in the bottom radiator hose though.
you dont want to do that, it would be getting a reading of water thats been cooled, not water thats coming out of your engine. you want it to be in the upper hose.
Old 05-30-04, 12:27 PM
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Originally posted by Pele
But you said you remove the choke... So I don't need the choke hold meaning I can remove the entire magnet/cable assembly, right?



RacerX7fb, that'd be great for an electric fan control... Might put it in the bottom radiator hose though.
Nope, you still use the cable to control the fast idle function.
Old 05-31-04, 11:51 AM
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Originally posted by onepointone
you dont want to do that, it would be getting a reading of water thats been cooled, not water thats coming out of your engine. you want it to be in the upper hose.
That's the point... If you're going down the highway, and the water is being cooled by the wind, then the fan doesn't kick on...

If you're stopped, the wind doesn't cool down the water and the fan kicks on till the water cools... Once the water cools, the fan kicks off. Repeat as needed.

You don't want the hot water straight from the engine to keep the fan running when you're on the highway.

Most cars I've seen with temp sensors for the fan in the radiator have it in the lower end tank, near the nipple for the lower hose, or in the block where the lower hose connects to the engine.

Originally posted by Rx7carl
Nope, you still use the cable to control the fast idle function.
Hmmm... Anyway to modify the cable so that I don't need the magnet for manual operation? I don't like having stuff there that's not being used.

Perhaps I can replace it with one of those lawnmower throttles... With the rabbit and the turtle on it.

Last edited by Pele; 05-31-04 at 11:55 AM.
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