After 2 YEARS of building, it starts on its first try. Turbo FB
08-24-04, 02:29 AM
#1
After 2 YEARS of building, it starts on its first try. Turbo FB
It started on the first try.
I did run into some trouble earlier. the trailing coils are now running backwards, T1 to T2 and vise versa. I dont know why, but this is the only way it works, I went through the haltech wiring to the coils, and all was good. It seams wrong, but its right when I check it with a timing light.
also had a small fuel leak on the primary rail.
Runs rock solid at 800 rpms and will idle as low as 600.
during its first warm ups, I ran it at about 1000.
It was making 45 psi of oil pressure, close to 18 in/hg, and held a steady 180 deg.
the oil temp maybe moved above the 140 mark, but Im not sure.
overall it is running fantastic.
It ran a little funny at first, and backfired pretty hard, but I realized I left the timing lock on. Once off, it ran smooth, with no hesitation on throttle dip-in and had a smooth return to idle, even with no BAC or dashpots on the throttle.
also, it does not hold fuel pressure at Key off. I pinched the return line and it still does it. I have an Aeromotive A700 fuel pump. it does hold a stead 42 psi at idle.
Right now its got a belt squeele that I need to take care of, which I think is the alternator not being fully hooked up.
I cant rev it at all or it will backfire hard, as it has a just a pipe coming off the turbo about 3 feet long. Just so I could get it started.
Once I get a full exhaust, and a o2 sensor in there. I can start tuning it an getting it ready to drive. that and the driveshaft.
Ill have some new pics and a short video of it running tomorrow, right now the battery is dead in my digi. and Im going to bed.
I did run into some trouble earlier. the trailing coils are now running backwards, T1 to T2 and vise versa. I dont know why, but this is the only way it works, I went through the haltech wiring to the coils, and all was good. It seams wrong, but its right when I check it with a timing light.
also had a small fuel leak on the primary rail.
Runs rock solid at 800 rpms and will idle as low as 600.
during its first warm ups, I ran it at about 1000.
It was making 45 psi of oil pressure, close to 18 in/hg, and held a steady 180 deg.
the oil temp maybe moved above the 140 mark, but Im not sure.
overall it is running fantastic.
It ran a little funny at first, and backfired pretty hard, but I realized I left the timing lock on. Once off, it ran smooth, with no hesitation on throttle dip-in and had a smooth return to idle, even with no BAC or dashpots on the throttle.
also, it does not hold fuel pressure at Key off. I pinched the return line and it still does it. I have an Aeromotive A700 fuel pump. it does hold a stead 42 psi at idle.
Right now its got a belt squeele that I need to take care of, which I think is the alternator not being fully hooked up.
I cant rev it at all or it will backfire hard, as it has a just a pipe coming off the turbo about 3 feet long. Just so I could get it started.
Once I get a full exhaust, and a o2 sensor in there. I can start tuning it an getting it ready to drive. that and the driveshaft.
Ill have some new pics and a short video of it running tomorrow, right now the battery is dead in my digi. and Im going to bed.
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08-25-04, 03:01 AM
#15
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Join Date: Mar 2004
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that is one of the most clean set ups i have seen in a while, i WISH my engine bay looked that clean, maybe it will look a bit better with the rats nest gone,e-fan and cold air intake?? lol but your engine bay pic is definatly sumthing to work towards, very good job....envious
08-25-04, 04:37 PM
#17
Got Boost?
About the trailing issue that you have, I had the same issue. Its fine as long as you correct it by switching the wires around, so that the front rotor triggers a timing light somewhere near the timing marks.
I know how long and hard you been at this. Must be very satisfying.
08-25-04, 09:17 PM
#20
Extremely satisfying,
I had a lot of problems with my engine supplyer, some guy on the forum.
so the quality seamsed iffy. But it was super clean, inside and out. and made sucking and blowing sounds like it was sealing very well.
It was a huge relief when it started, and on the very first try, but I think I made my own luck on this one.
but man was there a lot of smoke from the MMO.
I am confident that the backfire was from leaving the timing lock on. It was sputtering hard on throttle tip in, and missed quite a bit. then backfired.
I turned it off, and instantly the car idle went from about 1000 ot arount 1150. and it reved freely with no hesitation or sputtering at all. I did not go higher than about 2700 or so. just kind of held it at different rpms, and listened for any kind of problem.
I had two guys watching it for fuel leaks and one had a fire ext.
I had a lot of problems with my engine supplyer, some guy on the forum.
so the quality seamsed iffy. But it was super clean, inside and out. and made sucking and blowing sounds like it was sealing very well.
It was a huge relief when it started, and on the very first try, but I think I made my own luck on this one.
but man was there a lot of smoke from the MMO.
I am confident that the backfire was from leaving the timing lock on. It was sputtering hard on throttle tip in, and missed quite a bit. then backfired.
I turned it off, and instantly the car idle went from about 1000 ot arount 1150. and it reved freely with no hesitation or sputtering at all. I did not go higher than about 2700 or so. just kind of held it at different rpms, and listened for any kind of problem.
I had two guys watching it for fuel leaks and one had a fire ext.
08-25-04, 10:02 PM
#21
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looks great.. can I ask you what the full setup cost you? and what you all have done 
.. if you dont mind.. I would love to know stats as well on how much power you think you will be making.
Daryl
.. if you dont mind.. I would love to know stats as well on how much power you think you will be making. Daryl
08-25-04, 10:39 PM
#22
I list as much as I can remember,
Lets start with drivetrain at the front.
New Factory mazda Motor mounts
RB 12a to 13b front mount.
85 GLS-se front cover and oil pan. with atkins oil pellet replacement.
91, JDM 13BT longblock, mostly striped down.
stock flywheel
Centerforce Dual friction clutch
87 Turbo II tranny, with FB shifter assembly. (has 150+k on it, but seams to shift smoothly)
*getting custom made steel driveshaft from pruven force.
stock open rear end for now.
stock brakes with hawk pads in the front. Plan to upgrade the rear end soon.
Suspension
B&G springs (which have settled nicely since I got them)
tokico illumina shox
poly swaybar mounts and ends. stock swaybars.
Kosie K1 racing wheels 15x7 and Kuhmo exsta 712s, 205/50/r15 (soon to have 225s on the back)
Fuel control
Haltech E6k, with terminated harness. all New GM sensors,
stripped throttle body (nothing but the main throttles. Nothing else.)
I custom made the throttle linkage, out of existing parts that I took off.
stock 82 throttle cable.
fuel delivery.
90% of the AN fittings are "SUMMIT RACING" brand parts made by Goodridge. The line is earls that I bought off ebay.
Fuel pump is an Aeromotive A700HP. 8an inlet and 6an outlet.
this draws from a Summit brand 16gallon foamed fuel cell.
After running through a small fuel cooler, and a NOS y block, it Runs to standard S$ TII fuel rails with AN adapters, and 550 stock, and Marrel fuel injection Bosch 1680cc Pro-import fuel injectors. These are the only drop in 1680cc fuel injectors for TIIs that I could find and at like $85, thats a good deal.
Mustang-Warehouse 6an billet alluminum fuel regulator
Intake
Summit brand Cotton/oil air filter, 4in inlet. 6in base, 4.5 top (clear fluid, you get to choose color) and only $35
TO4b, 1.15P-trim divided exhaust, 60 trim compressor (switching to a 62-1 soon).
87 Volvo 870 intercooler, and Tial 50mm bov.
Boost is contolled by A XS racing, 50mm wastegate. (HKS Racing wastegate clone)
Heavily massaged and rewelded OBX manifold ( about $300 after purchase and all work)
Full compliment of Autometer mechanical guages. Installed with brushed sheetmetal in the
Top guages: 3 3/8 8K tack, 2 5/8 OIl temp and pressure, boost and water temp.
center console: 2 1/16 volt and fuel level. and soon to come a 3 3/8 160 mph speed
leather boot with stock shifter.
Optima Redtop, with 4 guage wires.
Lets start with drivetrain at the front.
New Factory mazda Motor mounts
RB 12a to 13b front mount.
85 GLS-se front cover and oil pan. with atkins oil pellet replacement.
91, JDM 13BT longblock, mostly striped down.
stock flywheel
Centerforce Dual friction clutch
87 Turbo II tranny, with FB shifter assembly. (has 150+k on it, but seams to shift smoothly)
*getting custom made steel driveshaft from pruven force.
stock open rear end for now.
stock brakes with hawk pads in the front. Plan to upgrade the rear end soon.
Suspension
B&G springs (which have settled nicely since I got them)
tokico illumina shox
poly swaybar mounts and ends. stock swaybars.
Kosie K1 racing wheels 15x7 and Kuhmo exsta 712s, 205/50/r15 (soon to have 225s on the back)
Fuel control
Haltech E6k, with terminated harness. all New GM sensors,
stripped throttle body (nothing but the main throttles. Nothing else.)
I custom made the throttle linkage, out of existing parts that I took off.
stock 82 throttle cable.
fuel delivery.
90% of the AN fittings are "SUMMIT RACING" brand parts made by Goodridge. The line is earls that I bought off ebay.
Fuel pump is an Aeromotive A700HP. 8an inlet and 6an outlet.
this draws from a Summit brand 16gallon foamed fuel cell.
After running through a small fuel cooler, and a NOS y block, it Runs to standard S$ TII fuel rails with AN adapters, and 550 stock, and Marrel fuel injection Bosch 1680cc Pro-import fuel injectors. These are the only drop in 1680cc fuel injectors for TIIs that I could find and at like $85, thats a good deal.
Mustang-Warehouse 6an billet alluminum fuel regulator
Intake
Summit brand Cotton/oil air filter, 4in inlet. 6in base, 4.5 top (clear fluid, you get to choose color) and only $35
TO4b, 1.15P-trim divided exhaust, 60 trim compressor (switching to a 62-1 soon).
87 Volvo 870 intercooler, and Tial 50mm bov.
Boost is contolled by A XS racing, 50mm wastegate. (HKS Racing wastegate clone)
Heavily massaged and rewelded OBX manifold ( about $300 after purchase and all work)
Full compliment of Autometer mechanical guages. Installed with brushed sheetmetal in the
Top guages: 3 3/8 8K tack, 2 5/8 OIl temp and pressure, boost and water temp.
center console: 2 1/16 volt and fuel level. and soon to come a 3 3/8 160 mph speed
leather boot with stock shifter.
Optima Redtop, with 4 guage wires.