Florida 83 RX7

First of all I need to thank all of you because this site has saved me and my 7 many times. I've learned so much reading through these archives. I had never done any work on cars before. My cousin pushed me to get the used FB because they were easier to work on and get to stuff to fix it.

My FB is the daily driver. The SA was pulled from a junk yard a year ago as my love for the 7 has grown!!!!!!! (they said it had a bad motor that wouldn't even turn) HA!! Got it's engine running THANKS TO THE ARCHIVES. Pulled it apart for unplaned turbo project <----Bad idea as it now sits in pieces including a broken intake thanks to me.

Now my FB is dying!!! WHAT TO DO????

My 83 FB has 230 thousand miles on it. It's a one wheel peel. I got it at 123,000 and the owner said it had been reuilt by mazda not to long ago. No paper work so I kinda didn't believe him, BUT I've been beating the crap out of that car (and many hondas! haha ) for 100+thousand miles since 2002!

Only changed the basic filters, oil, cap, rotor, plugs, wires and a rear end replaced with another used one from mazda Recycle. The one I yanked out of the FB had a ring and pinion gear that was missing chunks. haha. I also had to replace the radiator and water pump about 15,000 miles ago so that's all new. I went ahead and put on the E-fan while I was at it. and of course I've had to replace both the ignitors since i've had the car. READ HOW TO DO IT ALL ON THIS SITE! THANKS!!

I also had a 4 puck unsprung race clutch installed @ some shaddy place I never went back too for repairs.

Anyway, that clutch was nice and sticky. Now it's powerfull grab and many chirps later the differential from mazda recycle has lots of slop/play where it conncets to the drive shaft. You can rotate the drive shaft back and forth quite a bit while it's in gear.

The Tranny bearings HOWL when the clutch is not pushed in. If I hold the clutch in at a stop light to make it quite, when I go to let the clutch off the floor it immediatley engages the clutch. It's like the point of engament drops to right when you let it off the floor if you hold it in for long. But somehow I'm not missing fluid???? This thing shutters like your taking off on an air plane now when it's being engaged into 1st?? It's now screetching-howling when being engaged into 1st gear?? Not a belt slipping, but the tranny making that noise??? WTF is slipping??

I fear my engine is dying in the FB. It smokes crazy at start up if it's been below 50 degreess. The choke no longer works and it's hard to start in the cold. It's also is missing coolant, only from the overflow, which sometimes has spray back from the little pin hole at the top of the overflow cap. (when I fill it up that is.)

The car REALLY doesn't want to start when it's cold either but seems to run fine when it's warm out. It also leaks oil from under the oil cooler beehive setup and possibly the oil pan gasket as well. It's a big mess at this point.

I've been doing some reading and it looks like the dowel pin or rod is leaking as well (the oil collects on the top of the motor next to the 12a stamp, meaning rebuild or so i've read on the site)

1. If I keep driving the motor in the FB this summer, could it blow and create
more damage? (considering these motor issues) Of course keeping oil in it
since it leaks so bad.

2. At what point should I possibly try the CRC block trick to stop the white
smoking at cold startups.

3. I got the SA for parts and was thinking I could just drop the motor in the FB.
(not sure how to fit it in though ? I tried to put the tranny from the SA into the
FB and it wouldn't fit) More reading to do I guess?? can anyone point me in
the right direction for that?

4. I've been thinking of the 13b turbo swap. Any suggestions as to the SA or FB
for Turbo setup ease?? I've got to fix one for now untill I get $$$ for turbo
setup. buy an intake and drop in a Sterling\Carl carb to put the SA back
together?? or maybe I should just figure out how to get the motor from the
SA into the FB

THANKS FOR ALL YOUR HELP

trochoid

iTrader: (6)

1. With that many miles, and if the housings were not new for the original rebuild, chances are the housings are too worn for another rebuild. Drive it til it's dead.

2. Anytime, if any of the parts are still useable for a rebuild, it will just be more cleaning and prep.

3. If the SA motor is good, swap it, or rebuild it while it's out. You can find another FB tranny fairly cheap, the SA can work, with modification. There is a write up somewhere.

4. Hate to say it, but search, and ye shall find.

Midwest 7's

iTrader: (4)

The sa motors have weird holes on the rotor housings for the thermal reactor or something? i guess you got to fill them with apoxy.