bouis

Two quick questions:

1) I'm looking to add cruise control my '85 S. As far as I can tell, the only options this little car came with were aluminum wheels and the former automatic transmission. No electric hatch release, no map light. For the cruise control, I think it's safe to assume that the harness is in there already, so what do I need to swap in the CC? Here's my list:

A) Cruise control brake pedal switch. I assume it's different since I got a new one with my new pedals and it had an extra wire. Got this one.

B) Cruise control dealie under the hood + cable. Not sure exactly what this consists of, but I figure it won't be hard to figure out once I see it.

C) Cruise control brain from the driver's side storage bin.

D) The dashboard switch [got this one already too, don't know when I picked it up but I do have it, heh.]

E) The combo switch behind the wheel

Am I forgetting anything? Are there significant differences on the 84-85 versions, or could I use parts from another FB?

2) GSL-SE fuel pump on 12a tank pickup: good idea?

My long-term plan is to put an FC 13b FI engine in. I have the pump and obviously I plan to upgrade the hoses, but I'm not sure if I need the tank or the pickup from the SE as well.

Glazedham42

iTrader: (4)

Bouis,

I've got the Cruise Module with the cable that goes under the hood. Its off of my 85 GS. I don't plan on putting it back, because I don't do any extended driving. My 7 is just my fun toy to drive around once in a while. As far as harnesses and stuff, I'm pretty sure I chopped them and taped them up, so can't help there. but if you want the cruise module shoot me an offer. Later!

Jamie

bouis

Well, I'm going to do some junkyard hopping in the next week or so and I'm gonna try and grab the stuff then. I'd rather get the stuff 'round here but if I can't I'll letcha know. Thanks.

Feds

I've got an -se fuel pump hooked to a 12a tank. Supplies gas to the -se engine in my 12a car. Works fine for me, but then again, no one ever explained to me why you need to swap the tanks.

bouis

I know the tanks are different [the SE has a baffle] but I'm really not sure what else the differences amount to.

Another question [directed to Feds, but anyone can answer]: Is the SE pump "plug and play," so to speak? Can I just physically install it, snap it into the 12a harness and go with it?

Glazedham42

iTrader: (4)

As far as installing the stuff, I believe you'll need the white solenoid off of your rats nest for the CC to work right, if you ever had one to begin with.

The hoses off of the white solenoid are T'd and I believe one goes to the carb spacer and the other to the CC module with the cable. The cable then hooks into your carb linkage to regulate the throttle when the CC is engaged. There is also a (white?) plastic plug in connector for the CC module. I believe it has four prongs and is probably already included in your wiring loom. It will be down by the washer fluid tank, and where the cold start assist reservoir is.

The brain for the CC in the driver bin has one giant snap in connector. It is white, and probably 1.5 inches wide. I'm guessing you'll have this connector in place too.

That is pretty much all I know about the CC, because that's all I had to remove on mine when I was taking it apart. As far as wiring up the steering column switch and the dash button I'm not sure. I'm guessing that these will have appropriate connectors as well.... Good Luck!

Jamie

bouis

Thanks Jamie.

Are you talking about the white soleniod on the rats nest rack? I thought that guy was for the A/C compensator? I also thought the vacuum source for the cruise control was a T connector on the other side of the carb [mine had a cap on it] by an orange soleniod. I think I need to go take a look at the car.

bouis

Oh btw man how are you doing on that tranny swap? I have been meaning to take those pictures of the tranny mount adapters but I haven't had the opportunity. I borrowed a camera a while back but I then I had lent my jack out... car sits pretty low; I can't get under there without one. Heh. When I go back to my folks's house tomorrow hopefully I'll have jack AND camera and I'll try to take some pics for yah.

Glazedham42

iTrader: (4)

Best thing would probably be to find a donor car and take some serious notes. My memory is a little fuzzy at times.

I'd love some pics of the mounts. I've got my car stripped & sanded right now because I'm getting ready to spray it this weekend. It is just a shell. No doors or glass or hood or anything in the engine bay. I'm actually going to buy the paint today as well. I want to get the shell painted so I can start putting it back together over the winter.

I did get the pedals in finally, and while it was very very difficult I have to say that I've been through worse. (taking the gauge cluster out of my 91 Protege). I ended up using the original bracket from my car and swapped all the springs and hardware over from the 83. (You were right the brackets are different.) So the hardest part is done. I also finally got that shifter fixed on my tranny and it shifts like butter now. So if you can get me some pics of your mounts, the rest of the headache should be over. All I'll have to do is bolt up everything if I can get the mounts made. Also finally found a RB light steel fly to use as well. Can't wait to put this car back together and try it out!!

Jamie

Feds

I believe that the electrical side is plug and play. I'm not totally sure because I rewired mine and put the pump on a hidden switch (try and steal my car now!), helps with flooding too!

To get the pump in there, you will need the bracket that holds the pump to the body from the -se. Also, the -se inlet hose is bigger. I have new hose coming from the tank to a gm truck fuel filter (any high volume filter should work, this one was cheap) then to the pump inlet. The outlet just hooks up as normal.

You could just use the -se filter and hoses if you come across them.

bouis

Great! I'm glad to hear it's going good. You'll love the flywheel. I know I love mine.

The brackets were really easy to make. Don't sweat it at all. I did tell you how to measure the distance between the holes, right? And remember to use the crossmember from the auto-tranny.

To make the brackets, I got some quarter inch thick steel plate and my old man cut it to size with a gigantic disc grinder. Nice clean cuts, much better than a torch (as he said it would be). I drilled the holes with a drill press, but I guess a hand drill would work if you take your time. Careful measurement meant that I didn't have to slot the brackets at all.

bouis

Thanks Feds. I got the bracket and the SE fuel filter. I'm going to get new rubber hose and clamps, for sure. The filter looks new but I'm getting a brand new one, no point in taking chances on a $20 part.

FD Racer

I too was concerned on using a 12a tank for fuel injection. The problem is that the 12a tank has a 5/16" feed line and a 1/4" return. The SE tank has 5/16" both ways. If the return is too limiting on a FI setup it can increase fuel pressure unwantingly, especially at idle. For My FI setup I installed new 3/8" aluminum hard line from the new pump all the way to the front. Then I used the old 5/16" feed line as the return. The only problem I had was on the tank... I had to use the 5/16" coming out for the feed to the pump and the 1/4" for the return. I was able to run the larger lines all the way to the tank and then just reduce them right before the hook up to the line.

I am happy to report that I am able to maintain perfect fuel pressure with the 12a tank.