64mgb

iTrader: (1)

Hey guys -

I'm heading out to the garage to start disassembling the 12A from my project car...this will be the first time I've been inside a rotary. The manual says to use a "tubular dowel puller" to pull the tubular dowels of the rear housing. Is a tubular dowel puller necessary? If so, where do I get one? Also, it says to use a ring gear brake to lock things down when you remove the eccentric shaft pulley bolt. Will I be able to get by without this? I'll be using an impact wrench. Any other hints or suggestion would be welcome.

Thanks,
Rich
http://85rx7.home.mchsi.com

Snapshot

Are you nuts! What are you thinking? Rebuilding a rotary engine ain't for the novice.

64mgb

iTrader: (1)

1st if all, I've been in motors before and done a fair share of car work (http://64mgb.home.mchsi.com/) so I'n not a complete novice. 2nd, I have nothing to lose. This motor was smoking and the previous owner had started removing it and was going to install a 13B, which was included with the car. And 3rd, many of the posts I've read here indicate that anyone with a fair amount of automotive mechanical experience could easily do it.

So that's what I'm thinking!
Rich

lovintha7

You gotta start somewhere....

64mgb

iTrader: (1)

Exactly...

Snapshot

After having 2 custom engines built for my 7 , I can say you need some schoolin. A simple grinding & polishing of a port looks easy. Now make it run. It's not so easy.

calvinpaul

iTrader: (2)

Another day or two and I will start my first teardown. Jeez, I feel like I'm about to lose my virginity...

Snapshot

Yep, you will. Now, can you talk about it?

minocqa

Hi
i think you can get any special tools you need form madzatrix..they are not cheap though
what i do is REAd ,Read , Read, and ask questions if you dont undestand something. there is a lot of help and information on this board.
A couple of tips i have is get some ziplock bags and paper tags, like printer labels and a notebook to label everything. and even draw sketches no matter how crude they are you dont have to be artist as long as you understand, it will help you remeber when your putting it back together. also get yourself a clean workarea and bench (this is so important if you look organized you will be organized) buy like some rubbermaid containers bigs ones and small ones with small compartments to hold tiny parts ones to keep your parts in.
these things made life a lot easier for me
i hope they help
goodluck
Don

64mgb

iTrader: (1)

Good suggestions, Don. I did exactly that (bag and marks parts) when I restored my 64 MGB, except I took digital pictures and put them on my website (http://64mgb.home.mchsi.com/). the pictures and text were invaluable during the reassembly process. I've already started a site for my new project: http://85rx7.home.mchsi.com/

Hey guys, I understand that this is not trivial, but like lovintha7 said, you gotta start somewhere...and I'm starting here. Tips and hints appreciated.

Rich

64mgb

iTrader: (1)

Here's what's left of my engine...now the fun begins! I have a lot of cleaning to do. In my research over the last few weeks, I've seen several different rebuild kits from various places. Any tips on how to go about determining which one I need?

IanS

iTrader: (4)

I cant wait to start tearing down my blown 12A. Hey Rich, if you need a housing I can hook you up. I am about 95% sure that one of mine is toasted. I am also thinking that the one rotor project will cost too much for me at least at this point. Also I may be PMing you about advice/ideas when I start tearing mine down. Looks good so far, keep us updated about how it goes.

64mgb

iTrader: (1)

Thanks, Ian -

Keep an eye on my web site for progress updates. http://85rx7.home.mchsi.com/ I'll be posting today's updates and many pictures of the teardown proces shortly.

Rich

Latin270

Good luck bro, hope all works well. Its sounds fun to me! Cant wait to rebuild my spare motor either!!! Keep us posted!

Dan H

Dowel pin puller is not necessary. I use an old tension bolt. Stick it in there. Put a little pressure on the sides and yank it out. Sometimes they're on there really tight but its possible to remove them.

You don't need a special flywheel stopper if you're going to be using an impact wrench on the e-shaft bolt. Just in case you do want to lock the flywheel, I threaded in two long screws in the flywheel and place a pry bar in between it so it goes against the floor. That'll lock it up nice too.

BMS2004

well for rebuilds the bare minimum is obviously a complete gasket set. If you have the money to spare I would definately buy the full rebuild kit. if not just spec out all the apex seals, corner seals, basically all the metal stuff that can get worn. depending on what your plan on doing with the engine you can get carbon apex seals which are better suited for racing but wear out faster than the steelies. if you've rebuilt a piston engine the rotary is a piece of cake. Just take your time and do it right. a tip for removal/nstallation of flywheel nut is to get two bolts and a chain, from like a swing. put bolt in hole with chanin link around bolt then find a threaded hole on the rear end plate. then put the other bolt w/chain in that hole, you will then prevent the flywheel from moving from that point.

Hope this helps.

Jeff20B

iTrader: (13)

I tore down two R5 13Bs the other day. One has water damage on the front rotor and missing chrome. The other has stuck apex seals but looks very nice on the inside. It's totally rebuildable.

Right now I'm messing with an S5 T2 engine for a '77 REPU swap. Gotta swap things like oil pans, front covers etc. Fun!

mazda6guy

iTrader: (1)

I got some advice the other day on where to get a rebuild kit. The site is www.rotaryaviation.com. Ther kits are suppose to come with rubber viton o-rings and oil seals and you are able to reuse these o-rings and they last longer than the other rebuild kit o-rings. This is where I plan on getting my rebuild kit.

64mgb

iTrader: (1)

Yea, I found that out...thanks for responding though. I got the dowel pins out relatively easily. For the front pulley bolt and the flywheel nut I found that I could hold the shaft with a strap wrench while I was hitting it with the impact wrench, and it eventually broke loose. I don't know how I'm going to torque it to 300 ft. lbs. when I put it back together though!

Rich

jkent17

I'm sure you probably heard this, but there is a video available through Bruce Turrentine 919-212-00 or 0671, on rebuilding a rotary engine.

I just started racing Spec-7 class in the DC region, and Kearney Racing (the folks that built my car) recommended this video when I mentioned I was going to try and rebuild one of my left over 12a's. The video shows the rebuild of a 13b, but it is supposedly very helpful.

Good luck

Nick45

Atkins also has a rebuild video that has been very helpfull to me. I've pull apart 3 motors and have plans to put one back together. The video makes it look easy i think it was like 30 bucks or so. good luck.

IanS

iTrader: (4)

I have been helping 64mgb put his motor back together and it is really easy (slightly time consuming though). We are just taking our time and following the rotary aviation video. I am not afraid at all to tear apart my extra engine and see what is wrong with it.

mazda6guy

iTrader: (1)

I just tore my engine apart and I am lucky because the chrome on my side plates and housings are in excellent condition. I grabbed this motor from a junkyard back in November of 2004. The engine needs a good cleaning and I also need to order the rebuild kit today from Atkin's Rotary. The Haynes manual wasa big help along with the Atkin's video. I am really not afraid to tear apart a rotary. Now porting is another story.

Jeff20B

iTrader: (13)

Only the rotor housings have chrome. It's good that your side plates don't seem to have any step wear (just a guess based on what you said). Can you still see the original machining marks on the nitrided surface?