85 Rx7 gsl swap in a S5 turbo 2 engine and gearbox. Tips? 😊
#1
Junior Member
Thread Starter
85 Rx7 gsl swap in a S5 turbo 2 engine and gearbox. Tips? 😊
Hi I has looked around to find a good build tread or video from someone that have done this do I could learn and get tips on how to do it, but I havent found it.
So I have the car, T2 engine and gear, it have everything with it as ecu, harness and so on.
I am going for 300-400hp, so I will not swap frontcover and use frontmount engine brakets...I need a good way to weld in new brakets to use the orginal mounts on the t2 engine.
And I wounder what I will meet as the big problems in the build prosess.. Is the wiring going to be hard to find out of? Will the t2 gwarbox fit easy? Should I weld the oilpan so it fit or should i get one from a gsl-se with oil pickup? Can I use the fuel line thats in the car or should I change both of them? Valbro 255 is that good for 300-400hp? Do I need a new axle from gearbox to diff?
Thank you for all the help! 😊
And sorry for my bad english! Im from Norway 😉😆
Any links to build tread or youtube build vlog on S5 Turbo 2 swap in a FB? 👍
So I have the car, T2 engine and gear, it have everything with it as ecu, harness and so on.
I am going for 300-400hp, so I will not swap frontcover and use frontmount engine brakets...I need a good way to weld in new brakets to use the orginal mounts on the t2 engine.
And I wounder what I will meet as the big problems in the build prosess.. Is the wiring going to be hard to find out of? Will the t2 gwarbox fit easy? Should I weld the oilpan so it fit or should i get one from a gsl-se with oil pickup? Can I use the fuel line thats in the car or should I change both of them? Valbro 255 is that good for 300-400hp? Do I need a new axle from gearbox to diff?
Thank you for all the help! 😊
And sorry for my bad english! Im from Norway 😉😆
Any links to build tread or youtube build vlog on S5 Turbo 2 swap in a FB? 👍
#2
Moderator
iTrader: (3)
welcome to the board.
i'm not sure what your reasoning is here, but using a 12A (or if you can get your hands on a North American S3 13B) front cover is the way to go. you gain nothing by trying to mount the engine from the intermediate housing.
as far as problems go, i imagine wiring up the stock ECU will be your biggest headache. you will need to do some minor fab work to mount the transmission and get a custom driveshaft made, but i think it's more straightforward than wiring the stock ECU. the SE oil pan will simply bolt to the engine, no fuss, but you can "make" a 12A pan work if you need to. i hope welding is one of your skills. for the mounting bracket, minor work and you're good.
there are quite a number of threads that can give you some guidance, the engine block they used may be different from yours, but the general process is the same. threads by Directfreak, DreaminRotary and Setzep are the first that come to mind right now. if you have trouble finding their threads, you can PM me and i can help.
And I wounder what I will meet as the big problems in the build prosess.. Is the wiring going to be hard to find out of? Will the t2 gwarbox fit easy? Should I weld the oilpan so it fit or should i get one from a gsl-se with oil pickup? Can I use the fuel line thats in the car or should I change both of them? Valbro 255 is that good for 300-400hp? Do I need a new axle from gearbox to diff?
Thank you for all the help! 😊
And sorry for my bad english! Im from Norway 😉😆
Any links to build tread or youtube build vlog on S5 Turbo 2 swap in a FB? 👍
Thank you for all the help! 😊
And sorry for my bad english! Im from Norway 😉😆
Any links to build tread or youtube build vlog on S5 Turbo 2 swap in a FB? 👍
there are quite a number of threads that can give you some guidance, the engine block they used may be different from yours, but the general process is the same. threads by Directfreak, DreaminRotary and Setzep are the first that come to mind right now. if you have trouble finding their threads, you can PM me and i can help.
#3
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#4
Junior Member
Thread Starter
welcome to the board.
i'm not sure what your reasoning is here, but using a 12A (or if you can get your hands on a North American S3 13B) front cover is the way to go. you gain nothing by trying to mount the engine from the intermediate housing.
as far as problems go, i imagine wiring up the stock ECU will be your biggest headache. you will need to do some minor fab work to mount the transmission and get a custom driveshaft made, but i think it's more straightforward than wiring the stock ECU. the SE oil pan will simply bolt to the engine, no fuss, but you can "make" a 12A pan work if you need to. i hope welding is one of your skills. for the mounting bracket, minor work and you're good.
there are quite a number of threads that can give you some guidance, the engine block they used may be different from yours, but the general process is the same. threads by Directfreak, DreaminRotary and Setzep are the first that come to mind right now. if you have trouble finding their threads, you can PM me and i can help.
i'm not sure what your reasoning is here, but using a 12A (or if you can get your hands on a North American S3 13B) front cover is the way to go. you gain nothing by trying to mount the engine from the intermediate housing.
as far as problems go, i imagine wiring up the stock ECU will be your biggest headache. you will need to do some minor fab work to mount the transmission and get a custom driveshaft made, but i think it's more straightforward than wiring the stock ECU. the SE oil pan will simply bolt to the engine, no fuss, but you can "make" a 12A pan work if you need to. i hope welding is one of your skills. for the mounting bracket, minor work and you're good.
there are quite a number of threads that can give you some guidance, the engine block they used may be different from yours, but the general process is the same. threads by Directfreak, DreaminRotary and Setzep are the first that come to mind right now. if you have trouble finding their threads, you can PM me and i can help.
Thanx 😊
I has been told that with 350hp the front engine mount is not the way to go, that it will be to mutch for the front cover...??
And I will have a problem since the t2 engine has an elektronic OMP, and with the 12a or 13b S3 front cover I must do something I dont know what 🤔😆
Welding is not a problem, but at the same time I want to make it easy to go back to the orginal setup with the 12a.. and that all should be back to stock if i do so.
Do you know what that will give me headache on wiring the ecu? Since I have the ecu, wiring harnes that follow the engine i was thinking that it would be a ok job if I keep all the sensors and things like it is in the FC... But I maybe are dreaming 😉
#5
Junior Member
Thread Starter
And I get a problem with the OMP since its electric on the t2 if i choose to change the front cover? I realy dont know what to do, so it may as well be front mount if that holds up... and the OMP is a easy way around 😊
#6
Damn, it did start!
(Check out my build in my signature for context)
My project has escalated as I have progressed. Speaking of the Walbro 255... There are two models one is listed as 'HP' (GSS342) I believe. In the Single Turbo section of the forum has a stickies directory that has injector sizing and fuel pump info.
I am running four ID1050x injectors. which should get me to 400hp safely on pump gas. E85 requires more fuel so there would be a reduction. My region has no 85 so I did not study this further. the Walbro 255 seems to be pushing the limit at 400RWHP on a rotary. At least on paper. I would go up to a higher flowing pump. I am also limited by high compression rotors (9.4:1) so I'm looking at mid teens psi at most. I should be firmly placed in the 350hp range with enough overhead to compensate for mild boost creep and the like.
I am also running a BNR S5 Rx7 T04b turbo. I don't think the stock turbo is going to get you to 400hp. Outside of efficiency if I recall. Remember you are limited by the Mazda ECU. You will need to go with a Haltech or similar product to reach your goals.
Now, I did have meet a guy years back who did a 13B-T swap into a first gen using the factory ecu. So it can be done. it was a mid 13 second car according to him. The question is if you already have most everything, is it worth the cost of a new turbo, Fuel management System, New injectors and all the supporting hardware to get an extra 200hp? Im a bit shocked by what I have put into my car, and I still haven't driven it yet.
My project has escalated as I have progressed. Speaking of the Walbro 255... There are two models one is listed as 'HP' (GSS342) I believe. In the Single Turbo section of the forum has a stickies directory that has injector sizing and fuel pump info.
I am running four ID1050x injectors. which should get me to 400hp safely on pump gas. E85 requires more fuel so there would be a reduction. My region has no 85 so I did not study this further. the Walbro 255 seems to be pushing the limit at 400RWHP on a rotary. At least on paper. I would go up to a higher flowing pump. I am also limited by high compression rotors (9.4:1) so I'm looking at mid teens psi at most. I should be firmly placed in the 350hp range with enough overhead to compensate for mild boost creep and the like.
I am also running a BNR S5 Rx7 T04b turbo. I don't think the stock turbo is going to get you to 400hp. Outside of efficiency if I recall. Remember you are limited by the Mazda ECU. You will need to go with a Haltech or similar product to reach your goals.
Now, I did have meet a guy years back who did a 13B-T swap into a first gen using the factory ecu. So it can be done. it was a mid 13 second car according to him. The question is if you already have most everything, is it worth the cost of a new turbo, Fuel management System, New injectors and all the supporting hardware to get an extra 200hp? Im a bit shocked by what I have put into my car, and I still haven't driven it yet.
#7
Junior Member
Thread Starter
(Check out my build in my signature for context)
My project has escalated as I have progressed. Speaking of the Walbro 255... There are two models one is listed as 'HP' (GSS342) I believe. In the Single Turbo section of the forum has a stickies directory that has injector sizing and fuel pump info.
I am running four ID1050x injectors. which should get me to 400hp safely on pump gas. E85 requires more fuel so there would be a reduction. My region has no 85 so I did not study this further. the Walbro 255 seems to be pushing the limit at 400RWHP on a rotary. At least on paper. I would go up to a higher flowing pump. I am also limited by high compression rotors (9.4:1) so I'm looking at mid teens psi at most. I should be firmly placed in the 350hp range with enough overhead to compensate for mild boost creep and the like.
I am also running a BNR S5 Rx7 T04b turbo. I don't think the stock turbo is going to get you to 400hp. Outside of efficiency if I recall. Remember you are limited by the Mazda ECU. You will need to go with a Haltech or similar product to reach your goals.
Now, I did have meet a guy years back who did a 13B-T swap into a first gen using the factory ecu. So it can be done. it was a mid 13 second car according to him. The question is if you already have most everything, is it worth the cost of a new turbo, Fuel management System, New injectors and all the supporting hardware to get an extra 200hp? Im a bit shocked by what I have put into my car, and I still haven't driven it yet.
My project has escalated as I have progressed. Speaking of the Walbro 255... There are two models one is listed as 'HP' (GSS342) I believe. In the Single Turbo section of the forum has a stickies directory that has injector sizing and fuel pump info.
I am running four ID1050x injectors. which should get me to 400hp safely on pump gas. E85 requires more fuel so there would be a reduction. My region has no 85 so I did not study this further. the Walbro 255 seems to be pushing the limit at 400RWHP on a rotary. At least on paper. I would go up to a higher flowing pump. I am also limited by high compression rotors (9.4:1) so I'm looking at mid teens psi at most. I should be firmly placed in the 350hp range with enough overhead to compensate for mild boost creep and the like.
I am also running a BNR S5 Rx7 T04b turbo. I don't think the stock turbo is going to get you to 400hp. Outside of efficiency if I recall. Remember you are limited by the Mazda ECU. You will need to go with a Haltech or similar product to reach your goals.
Now, I did have meet a guy years back who did a 13B-T swap into a first gen using the factory ecu. So it can be done. it was a mid 13 second car according to him. The question is if you already have most everything, is it worth the cost of a new turbo, Fuel management System, New injectors and all the supporting hardware to get an extra 200hp? Im a bit shocked by what I have put into my car, and I still haven't driven it yet.
Hi 😊
I have been thinking to get a stand alone ecu, I have a friend that is selling Link ecu and he is good at wiring them up and want to help me with that job if I go for it 👍
So is Link a good choice? 😊
And I already have a new turbo, wastegate, dumpwalve, fuel pressur adjuster, bigger fuel pump +++ I am missing bigger injectors, front mount intercooler, exhaust.
But my plan is to get the engine and gearbox instaled so I can use the car like this before i upgrade anything more. 😊
And I will check out youre build 👍
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#8
Junior Member
Thread Starter
welcome to the board.
i'm not sure what your reasoning is here, but using a 12A (or if you can get your hands on a North American S3 13B) front cover is the way to go. you gain nothing by trying to mount the engine from the intermediate housing.
as far as problems go, i imagine wiring up the stock ECU will be your biggest headache. you will need to do some minor fab work to mount the transmission and get a custom driveshaft made, but i think it's more straightforward than wiring the stock ECU. the SE oil pan will simply bolt to the engine, no fuss, but you can "make" a 12A pan work if you need to. i hope welding is one of your skills. for the mounting bracket, minor work and you're good.
there are quite a number of threads that can give you some guidance, the engine block they used may be different from yours, but the general process is the same. threads by Directfreak, DreaminRotary and Setzep are the first that come to mind right now. if you have trouble finding their threads, you can PM me and i can help.
i'm not sure what your reasoning is here, but using a 12A (or if you can get your hands on a North American S3 13B) front cover is the way to go. you gain nothing by trying to mount the engine from the intermediate housing.
as far as problems go, i imagine wiring up the stock ECU will be your biggest headache. you will need to do some minor fab work to mount the transmission and get a custom driveshaft made, but i think it's more straightforward than wiring the stock ECU. the SE oil pan will simply bolt to the engine, no fuss, but you can "make" a 12A pan work if you need to. i hope welding is one of your skills. for the mounting bracket, minor work and you're good.
there are quite a number of threads that can give you some guidance, the engine block they used may be different from yours, but the general process is the same. threads by Directfreak, DreaminRotary and Setzep are the first that come to mind right now. if you have trouble finding their threads, you can PM me and i can help.
Thanx 👍
Do you know what I get headache of in the ecu wiring? Is it a big pile of wires and a lot of hours? 😊
I has been told that the it could brake the front cover if I dont use the mid engine mounts when I will have 350hp 🤔 Maybe its wrong, I realy dont know... But then its the electrical OMP on the 13bt2 that I dont know what to do if I change the frontcover from my 12a that has mechanical OMP?
Welding is not a problem 😊
#9
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iTrader: (3)
by the way, i didn't think about losing the eMOP if you ditched the front cover, so i apologize for that, but it's only any issue if you're using the factory ECU. so there's that.
#10
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#11
Junior Member
Thread Starter
specifically? no. i've never had to wire up any factory ECU from scratch. i've seen it done, i've even helped with it, it's not my cup of tea. i much rather deal with a standalone. i'm not saying it's easier, but i prefer it. needless to say, in my opinion, if you have the chance to get a Link, take it. that said, if you are going to go through with using the factory ECU, there are quite a few threads here that may help with it (i just don't know how many of the members are still around).
by the way, i didn't think about losing the eMOP if you ditched the front cover, so i apologize for that, but it's only any issue if you're using the factory ECU. so there's that.
by the way, i didn't think about losing the eMOP if you ditched the front cover, so i apologize for that, but it's only any issue if you're using the factory ECU. so there's that.
Okay, I will check out more about the stand alone ecu than 👍 I have also a chance to buy Maxxecu from a nearby seller I know... 1300$ ekstra into the car 🥰😉
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