Now that I've tuned up my SE as much as possible, there is a nagging in the back of my mind that I should replace the coils on my almost 20 year old car. Currently, it is running the stock coils, and I want to rule these out as the cause for my erratic idle (have done EVERYTHING to tune it, as posted elsewhere).

In any case, what coils have you guys used to replace the stock coils, and is there a difference between the leading and trailing coils, since the leading coil has to fire twice as frequently as the trailing?

Thanks, in advance,

 

MSD High Vibration coils from Summit Racing
http://store.summitracing.com/defaul...rchType%3DBoth

$39.99

Same coils for both

 

Belive me, if you have an erratic idle on a SE it's not the coils. You should for sure replace them as they are going on 20 years. I never got my SE to idle right but I don't have it anymore to keep trying. There's a site somewhere that has alot of info an how to get the SE to idle right, if/when I find it again I'll post it. The name is something like the petroid or something close so if anyone else knows what I'm talking about please post a link.

 

I've been to the website dedicated to fixing idle problems and have done the full troubleshooting.

Replaced or rebuilt:
Injectors
O2 sensor
Cap & Rotor
Plugs
Upper intake manifold
BCAV
Vacuum hoses throughout
lower intake manifold, including '6' ports
Throttle body, complete including shafts
Cold Start (Thermowax sensor)
Air cleaner (K&N)
ATF trick
New gaskets throughout
Muffler (RB PP)

Soon will replace Oscillator Relay, see other thread.

Thanks for the help, guys,

 

If the idle is cycling up and down, check the vacuum lines onthe front of the dynamic chamber. If you get the 2nd and 3rd one crossed, your car will never idle right. Don't ask me how I know. The FSM diagram can be confusing on those two lines.

 

http://www.nellump.net/peri/epi/firs...gslseIdle.html

Here's the site, I wasen't realy that close on the name, it's been a little over a year scince I had my SE, let me take a moment, ahh um, okay I'm okay. hope the site helps

 

You listed everything except the on thing that's supposed to cause the surging: thevent soleniod valve. Remember Manntis' pulsing/surging thread? https://www.rx7club.com/forum/showth...sing%2Fsurging
You were the last to post and said you'd try that. What happened?

 

Thanks for the tips - I'll doublecheck these vacuum lines on the front of the Dynamic Chamber. I'm pretty sure they're set up correctly.

It's not a surging problem, which I have diagnosed and fixed before as being the BCAV valving. I also experienced both cycling idle and the 'revs at 4000rpm' problem, too.

The problem is that it idles at 1000rpm (where I want it), but the idle is very lumpy with occasional missing. Stays within about 25-50rpm from 1000, up or down, but the idle quality is poor and the engine shakes uncontrollably.

I even have new engine mounts that I'll be putting in over the holidays to see if this helps out. I'm thinking one of my rebuilt injectors is either flowing too much fuel, or there's still a vacuum leak somewhere. Take it easy,

 

Actually, now that you mention it, I don't recall checking Vent Solenoid operation. I may have gotten side-tracked on these other things that I thought would be related. I'll perform the Vent Solenoid test in the near future and report back to the original thread.

Thanks for reminding me!

 

I'm sure you already did this, but clean your throttle plates the duct work and the aif flow sensor. My car did the same thing when I first got it. After driving, my car would "hang" at around 4000rpm. After replacing the air filter and cleaning the intake tract it didn't do it any more. I just had all the other idle problems you described, mine did the EXACT same thing, just never got around to it.

 

How old is the fuel filter?

 

Fuel filter replaced less than a month ago - one of the first items to be replaced, since it's also an indicated item that causes idle inconsistency. TIA,

 

L D try going for the MSD Blaster 2 coils, I just had mine replaced too. The car feel smoother and idles a little better. If your up for it get the MSD 6A, that's my plan.

Have you checked the Fuel Pump, it might be pumping wrong psi into the engine. Check every fuses and check your Vacuum switch thats underneath the Windshield Washer resevoir.

Also your spark plug Wires, you mentioned plugs but not the wires, also check your ECU, because when I found another ECU from the junkyard N304 and all the relays and the atmospheric sensor, my car would start better and feels better.

Your best bet is the MSd blaster 2, just make sure you get brand new for Leading and a used one at Ebay for the trailing.

Check your Air Intake Temp Sensor too, the one underneath the BAC valve, Does your car at least hunt for 800 rpm? replace your Air Supply Valve,
THere's a black thing that's underneath the intake manifold that connects a vacuum line to the BAC valve check that too. Your AAS, VAriable resistor, TPS screw set them, if you already did, double check that. Your main relays on the side by the cluch cynlinder, check those, I replaced mine. Check your igniter, both leading and trailing. And most of all You Air Flow Meter check the resistance. If you don't have the Mazda Workshop Manual get one... I'm pretty sure you have one. I know this might seem far fetched but check your Fusible Link if its blown.

Marques

 

Ditto. Mine feels smoother at an idle, and even start quicker on the cold mornings.

~T.J.

 

everytime I have that idling problem, I play with the adjustment screws around the RE-EGI box. There are 3 screws. One is on the top of the trottle body section. That has the most effect, then I adjust the screws on each side of the shaft that the throttle cable hooks up too. Mine is set to idle at 1000 rpm also.

Seeing as you repaired/replaced all those components, I believe it's just the settings.

Ever since I did the "throttle body Mod" It's been a dream. That was the end of all idle issues. It just purrrrs.

If you ain't driving it this winter, look up how to do it and give it a shot. Plus the intake runs cooler cause the coolant lines will stop running thru the intake manifold. And the secondary butterflys are removed so you'll get a better response.


JIMMY