I'm in the middle of teardown of the RE-EGI engine and have removed all of the ancillary components (intake manifolds, air piping, air pump, alt, PS, etc.) from the engine core and am trying to decide whether the core is light enough that me and a friend can unbolt it from the tranny and lift just the basic engine core out by hand vs. getting a cherry picker.

He and I lifted my spare engine onto the stand between the two of us, but it's been awhile and I don't remember it being 'easy', per se. Anybody can answer the weight in LBS? TIA,

 

About 200lbs of dead weight without a flywheel, get at least a long pipe, a chain with 2 healthy guys to lift.

 

teardown?

what happened?

 

Lifting up to an engine stand is different from lifting up out of an engine bay. The angles are different. Sometimes things get stuck. Especially if you don't do engine pulls very often and can't anticipate the way a seasoned veteran can. Is your back health worth anything to you? Get an engine crane.

Something tells me you don't do engine pulls very often; leaving the old engine in there until it breaks an apex seal or smokes too much to drive or it drinks coolant link a deer isn't a badge of honor around here. Seems more like laziness to me. These are so easy to pull with an engine crane I'd rather pull the engine to do a clutch job than drop the tranny. But that's just me.

 

ooOOO i have a much much much better idea.

remove the center link for the steering, put a floor jack under the engine/trans from the front of the car, unbolt the trans mount, and remove the steel engine mount bracket, and then lower the engine out the bottom. you need 2 people one to make sure the engine doesn't roll, and one to operate the floor jack, but doing it this way is quick, and nobody has to lift anything.

reinstallation is the same.

the arc of the floor jack lifts the thing just right to clear the crossmember

it is by far the easiest way to do the engine. no hoist needed either.

 

Thanks for the tips, guys - I will likely just get a cherry picker.

Also, this is my 2nd rotary engine to go past 200k miles, and guess what Jeffy - this one still runs; it just won't hot start due to poor compression, which is why it's getting pulled.

 

good decision on the hoist. i am able to pull the motor/tranny by myself now...and if u don't have help available at times, an engine leveler is a must.

 

If your a novice, than yes, leveler is a must. IF you know how to short chain, and make bolts work to your advantage, no leveler needed. I'll pulled almost 10 engines and havent needed a leveler. It all about those skillzzzz

 

Agreed about the short chain and no need for a leveler, and no need to pull the engine with the tranny, ever. Only noobs do it that way. The hard way.

Glad you caught your engine in time, "Ducky", and perhaps the rotor housings are still in great shape being a GSL-SE and all. The apex seals are probably down to 5.something mm. Probably quite rebuildable. Merry Christmas!

 

we used to have a saying "if you want to know the easiest way to do something, ask the laziest guy", and i say, its more work to get the cherry picker to your house than dropping the engine out from the bottom…

although if you're using a cherry picker, leave the hood on, and go from the side. if you like to live dangerously you can even leave the radiator in place.

 

Like me! I just take the waterpump off.

 

I've used a come along over a 2x4 as well….

 

i agree, without pulling the tranny, no leveler needed.

when dropping the motor from the bottom, where are u putting the jack? on the rear of the oil pan w/ a 2x4 in between? trying to visualize it in my head.

 

I lived super dangerous than, i pulled the motor AND trans, and only removed the shroud and fan, left everything else

Course, I did cheat, i had the hood off lol

 

yep. i don't like using the pan to hold the engine, don't want to dent it, or if you have a cast pan, then they can crack

 

My original SE engine went to 210,000. Small strip of flaking chrome at the bottom of the housings. The tips of the rotors expanded beyond spec, v'ed out if you will. I bet yours will be the same. Plan on looking for some rotors and maybe housings as well. All the plates and everything else are good.

 

Will S4 rotors work with S3 counter weight/flywheel ?

 

no. you need S4 cw/flywheel with S4 rotors.