'84 RX-7 been sitting for 3 years
07-23-02, 06:50 PM
#1
'84 RX-7 been sitting for 3 years
Hey Guys,
Okay, here's the scoop. My mum has an '84 Rx-7, that she's finally given over to me. The bad part is that it's been sitting in a drivway taking beatings from Canadian winters for 3 years or more. It used to run perfectly fine, but now it's in much worse shape.
Since my post in the other part of the forum, I've done this to the car:
- Replaced the master and slave clutch cylinders and bled the clutch system
- Replaced the starter
- Unseized the rotors using ATF fluid and turning it by hand
- Replaced the fuel filter
- Unseized the brakes by taking them off, I've yet to spend the time trying to actually unsieze the calipers or wheel cylinders, but at least the car moves now so I can tow it.
We were told NEVER to use ATF to unseize the engine because it will cause the rotor's seals to expand and lose their seal (thanx Dave for telling me AFTER I did it..... oh well)
So here's where she stands:
The starter turns the engine, but it won't run unless we dribble some gas into the carb to get it started and have someone standing there with an old windex bottle full of gas spraying into the carb. I checked the fuel line into the carb and it's getting fuel alright.. so my guess is a clogged/bad carb. Ugh. The good news is that the gas isn't jelly
My question is:
I know nothing about carbs, and the local RX-7 shop doesn't have any used ones. What am I looking for? And if anyone else has some tips on how to unsieze brakes or work on a car that's been sitting for 3 years, lemme know.
Sorry it's so long, it's like three weeks worth of work accumulated into one post!
Jon
Okay, here's the scoop. My mum has an '84 Rx-7, that she's finally given over to me. The bad part is that it's been sitting in a drivway taking beatings from Canadian winters for 3 years or more. It used to run perfectly fine, but now it's in much worse shape.
Since my post in the other part of the forum, I've done this to the car:
- Replaced the master and slave clutch cylinders and bled the clutch system
- Replaced the starter
- Unseized the rotors using ATF fluid and turning it by hand
- Replaced the fuel filter
- Unseized the brakes by taking them off, I've yet to spend the time trying to actually unsieze the calipers or wheel cylinders, but at least the car moves now so I can tow it.
We were told NEVER to use ATF to unseize the engine because it will cause the rotor's seals to expand and lose their seal (thanx Dave for telling me AFTER I did it..... oh well)
So here's where she stands:
The starter turns the engine, but it won't run unless we dribble some gas into the carb to get it started and have someone standing there with an old windex bottle full of gas spraying into the carb. I checked the fuel line into the carb and it's getting fuel alright.. so my guess is a clogged/bad carb. Ugh. The good news is that the gas isn't jelly
My question is:
I know nothing about carbs, and the local RX-7 shop doesn't have any used ones. What am I looking for? And if anyone else has some tips on how to unsieze brakes or work on a car that's been sitting for 3 years, lemme know.
Sorry it's so long, it's like three weeks worth of work accumulated into one post!
Jon
07-23-02, 09:16 PM
#4
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sound right to me , I would have taken the same steps as you (and have) You will need to rebuild the carb it is not hard (if I can do it you can) most of the screws and jets will only fit where they come out of. Just remember dont take the butterfly apart unless you really have to (ask me how I know). If you get to a point where you need help, search the forum and if your still not sure ask (plenty of excellent carb people here).
peace
peace
07-24-02, 08:31 AM
#5
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Hello fellow hoser
Where in canada are you?
A few years ago I had an 85 GSL that had been sitting outside for a few years, the buterflies were seized, no body could fix until a good mechanic I know took the carb and continually soaked it in penetrating oil, and it was fixed.
A few years ago I had an 85 GSL that had been sitting outside for a few years, the buterflies were seized, no body could fix until a good mechanic I know took the carb and continually soaked it in penetrating oil, and it was fixed.
07-24-02, 11:09 AM
#6
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You're forgetting the gas tank itself. If it had any fuel in it at all when it was stopped, you've got rust in there like you won't believe. Ask Jeremy or V8kilr how bad it can get. Mine sat a year, I'm guessing from the rotted tires, and I'm having to pay for a shop to do the work since I can't get the time to do it myself. Fuel pump itself may have gone South, too...more stuff to check and/or replace...
07-24-02, 11:37 AM
#7
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get a bottle... or a can.. take the main fuel line from the carb off and stick it in there.... turn the key to the 'on' position.... gas should start fillin it up.. then you know its getting gas good.... but... I dont know if its the same on your car as it is on mine..... you might have to bump it over for the pump to get in.. dunno....
LATERZ, Andrew
LATERZ, Andrew
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07-24-02, 01:23 PM
#8
mine was the same, 2.5 yrs. gas tank needed replaced and or cleaned and lined by a competent radiator shop (fuel left in will sludge and moisture will have found a way in due to it probably not have the system full of fuel causing rust in everything), fuel pump replaced, main fuel hardline replaced (thanks dave), rebuilt the carb myself (its not really that hard, just take your time, have a rebuild kit and a 5 gallon bucket of carb cleaner/gas mixture to soak the parts and GLOVES that will hold up in the toxic ****), and replace the fuel filter (preferably with a see through aftermarket).
anyway that was my experience on the fuel situation. i replaced the fluids in everything else an it worked. my brakes weren't locked up. had a mess of the exterior and interior to clean up from sitting outside. and atf eats away carbon build up so that you don't crack off an apex seal and also loosens the apex seals from carbon causing them to seal BETTER not worse. the only problem you will run into is the atf getting in your cat and clogging it up. so chances are you will need to gut it or get a straight pipe to replace it.
anyway that was my experience on the fuel situation. i replaced the fluids in everything else an it worked. my brakes weren't locked up. had a mess of the exterior and interior to clean up from sitting outside. and atf eats away carbon build up so that you don't crack off an apex seal and also loosens the apex seals from carbon causing them to seal BETTER not worse. the only problem you will run into is the atf getting in your cat and clogging it up. so chances are you will need to gut it or get a straight pipe to replace it.
08-02-02, 08:14 PM
#9
Well guys, as it stands, we replaced the fuel filter and checked the gas flow at the carbie. It flows great, and the gas looks pretty clean. There wasn't much in there to begin with and I put another few litres in, so hopefully we'll just purge all of it and get some new stuff in.
I have a guy who's gonna look at my carb in late august, if I don't get ansy and just do it myself. Check my post by the same name in "General Rotary Tech Support" for anything I missed posting here. I don't have much time at the moment to pick through the two of them, but I will later and bring both up to date. I started the post there first, which is why this one's a little behind
This is a great project, I'll keep you guys posted. Thank you SOOOO much for all your help, you guys are the greatest.
Now on to project BRAKES! at least.. until late august when Chris comes back to look at my carb.
L8rs
Jon
I have a guy who's gonna look at my carb in late august, if I don't get ansy and just do it myself. Check my post by the same name in "General Rotary Tech Support" for anything I missed posting here. I don't have much time at the moment to pick through the two of them, but I will later and bring both up to date. I started the post there first, which is why this one's a little behind
This is a great project, I'll keep you guys posted. Thank you SOOOO much for all your help, you guys are the greatest.
Now on to project BRAKES! at least.. until late august when Chris comes back to look at my carb.
L8rs
Jon
08-03-02, 11:50 AM
#13
Originally posted by vipernicus42
Does anybody have any advice on unseizing brake calipers or wheel cylinders ? I have discs on the font, drums on the back, and they all seem to need work. Ugh...
L8rs
Jon
Does anybody have any advice on unseizing brake calipers or wheel cylinders ? I have discs on the font, drums on the back, and they all seem to need work. Ugh...
L8rs
Jon
ahem! BUUUUT ... unless you know what you're doing, i would NEVER advise someone to work on their brakes in that detail. for the sake of safety (yours and others') it might just be better to get new calipers (they are usually not THAT expensive) and then, you can buy a rebuild kit for the wheel cylinders.
also, you might want to look into replacing the lines, too. now would be the perfect time to get some stainless steel/Teflon lines for your system!
08-05-02, 12:38 AM
#15
Okay.... *TRIED* to take the carb out today.... that frikken last bolt, driver's side closest to the firewall on the carb...
I s'pose I'll give it another try tomorrow.... but in my frustration on getting that last bolt out, I removed hoses and brackets that were in my way w/o properly labeling them (my bad!) I'm gonna have fun trying to get everything back together properly when I'm done rebuilding the carb.
Oh, and I picked up a carb rebuild kit at Canadian Tire... forty dollars. Probably not as all-inclusive as the one at mazdatrix.com, but for a third the price, I can't complain.
Wish me luck guys, if anyone has any good suggestions on getting that damn thing loose... or even better, could send me some digital pics of the driver's side of an '84 carb assembly with all the tubes and stuff intact to help me put them back in place, I'd appreciate it.
Thanx Again Guys!
Jon
I s'pose I'll give it another try tomorrow.... but in my frustration on getting that last bolt out, I removed hoses and brackets that were in my way w/o properly labeling them (my bad!) I'm gonna have fun trying to get everything back together properly when I'm done rebuilding the carb.
Oh, and I picked up a carb rebuild kit at Canadian Tire... forty dollars. Probably not as all-inclusive as the one at mazdatrix.com, but for a third the price, I can't complain.
Wish me luck guys, if anyone has any good suggestions on getting that damn thing loose... or even better, could send me some digital pics of the driver's side of an '84 carb assembly with all the tubes and stuff intact to help me put them back in place, I'd appreciate it.
Thanx Again Guys!
Jon
08-05-02, 09:16 PM
#17
Thanx Mar3, though I was lookin' more for the driver's side while it's still sittin' on the car, but those will help.
I actually got the carb off today!!! God knows if I can get it back on :S, but I'm gonna give it my best after I clean the bugger.
I purged some gas from the tank through the fuel-in line that went to the carb... but then almost blew my starter doing it, so I figure I'll purge the rest tomorrow AFTER disconnecting my starter (84 modles aparently have to be turned to get the fuel pump working.. won't work just in the "on" position)
Any case... it's off. I'll probably have to get the car towed to RX-7 Heaven the next town over to get the carb put back in, but hell, at least half the job's done.
Wish me luck as always..
L8rs
Jon
I actually got the carb off today!!! God knows if I can get it back on :S, but I'm gonna give it my best after I clean the bugger.
I purged some gas from the tank through the fuel-in line that went to the carb... but then almost blew my starter doing it, so I figure I'll purge the rest tomorrow AFTER disconnecting my starter (84 modles aparently have to be turned to get the fuel pump working.. won't work just in the "on" position)
Any case... it's off. I'll probably have to get the car towed to RX-7 Heaven the next town over to get the carb put back in, but hell, at least half the job's done.
Wish me luck as always..
L8rs
Jon
08-06-02, 09:27 PM
#21
PERFECT!!!
Dude, you are my saviour!
And I checked for the trunk pistons (other post) at a NAPA I found in Ottawa. 36$ Canadian! I can buy three for the price of one at the mazda dealership.
36 * 3 = 108
1 at the dealership = 110
I don't need three, but you get the idea
Having a problem rebuilding the carb since the one I have doesn't seem to match the one in the heynes, so I can't figure out how to start... anyone wanna gimmie a hand?
L8rs
Jon
Dude, you are my saviour!
And I checked for the trunk pistons (other post) at a NAPA I found in Ottawa. 36$ Canadian! I can buy three for the price of one at the mazda dealership.
36 * 3 = 108
1 at the dealership = 110
I don't need three, but you get the idea
Having a problem rebuilding the carb since the one I have doesn't seem to match the one in the heynes, so I can't figure out how to start... anyone wanna gimmie a hand?
L8rs
Jon
08-06-02, 09:55 PM
#22
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You can download the parts diagram for the '84 carb from Mazdaformance.com.
I would REALLY recommend that you spend the $$$ for a Factory Service Manual. You will continue to find things on the car that need attention. (At least I did on my '82 that sat for a few years). The manual is expensive, but will pay for itself in the first trip you do NOT need to make to a mechanic.
Haynes is useful, but a little too generic for some things. However it should contain a vacuum routing diagram for all of the hoses you disconnected. You should replace those hoses rather than reconnect them. I tried to reuse mine, and chasing vacuum leaks drove me nuts. I finally just redid them all and everything was fine.
I would REALLY recommend that you spend the $$$ for a Factory Service Manual. You will continue to find things on the car that need attention. (At least I did on my '82 that sat for a few years). The manual is expensive, but will pay for itself in the first trip you do NOT need to make to a mechanic.
Haynes is useful, but a little too generic for some things. However it should contain a vacuum routing diagram for all of the hoses you disconnected. You should replace those hoses rather than reconnect them. I tried to reuse mine, and chasing vacuum leaks drove me nuts. I finally just redid them all and everything was fine.
08-07-02, 12:37 AM
#23
factory service manual? Gah? such a thing exists?
okay now that I've recovered from the initial shock, if this thing is as good as you say it is, where can I get one?
This carb is driving me nuts, and most everything else will since you're right.. the Heynes is too vague!
Thanx, L8rs
Jon
okay now that I've recovered from the initial shock, if this thing is as good as you say it is, where can I get one?
This carb is driving me nuts, and most everything else will since you're right.. the Heynes is too vague!
Thanx, L8rs
Jon
08-07-02, 08:48 AM
#24
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Mazdaformance, Mazdatrix, & Racing Beat all sell FSMs.
Also, I think there is a web site that has them up in PDF format so you can download and print them yourself. I don't know which site, but someone here on the forum will.
Also, I think there is a web site that has them up in PDF format so you can download and print them yourself. I don't know which site, but someone here on the forum will.
08-07-02, 08:40 PM
#25
I'm thinking of painting some of the external parts of the carb.... there's a SLIGHT coating of rust, and lots of gunk on most components, so I figure black and silver will suit it well.. why the hell not, if I can't have a fancy carb for the time being, why can't I look it?
Jon
Jon