RX7Tokyo

Ok, this has been going on for a while now. I have a 1984 GSL 12A w/ auto trans.

It has the click...click...maybe start. BUT, I am stumped.

The engine is not seized and will rotate. It has compression, Fuel, Spark, Air.
But it will not begin to start. My first thought was the Starter. So...

This is a list of the bad parts I've replaced:

Starter- checked it and it was no good.

Starter Solenoid- was broken on the new starter.

Alternator- checked and was bad.

Battery- Is new full 12.7 volts.

Ignition Switch- checked against the 84'/85' diagrams and was found to be faulty.

Fuses and fusible links- main fuse blew a year ago in an attempt to jump start. Replaced with new 30A standard fuse. All others are fine.

Car still wont start.
This is exactly what happens when I turn the key. ACC- normal. ON- warning lights come on and all electrical systems work normally. START- ALL Power is lost. Retuning the key position to ON or ACC does nothing. I must remove both battery cables and wait at least 20 seconds before reconnecting to get power back to the cockpit. This Power Down problem started back when I accidentally tried to start in the Drive position. (like I said it is an A/T)
This gave me the thought however that it could be the Inhibitor switch.
I have tried to check it but it is so hard to reach.

If anyone has had this problem and solved it I would GREATLY appreciate any help you can offer me. I have been trying to fix this for several months now and my bank account is empty.

mazdaverx713b

iTrader: (91)

make sure the battery cables are tight on the battery. next ensure the positive cable is toght on the starter. inspect the negative cable and ensure its two grounding points are CLEAN and properly fastened. if all checks good, inspect and test the neutral safety switch per the fsm. the issue sounds to me like a faulty battery cable or ground connection.

RX7Tokyo

I cleaned the Negative ground that attaches to the Left strut tower metal. Where else does it ground to? Battery terminals are good I replaced the Negative and will replace the positive today. I just got a new Starter Solenoid so the connections on that should be fine, but I'll check them again.

I've read the FSM about checking the Inhibitor/Neutral Safety Switch. But all it tells you is what has continuity in what position. It does not tell you how to get to the switch. All I know is that it is on top of the trans in front of the shifter linkage. I have no clue as to how to get to that switch to check it. Has anybody checked this switch in car before?

Anyways thank you for the tips I will follow them and post on what happens.

RotorMotorDriver

iTrader: (1)

Sounds like bad connections to me too. Ive seen this happen on other vehicles when the terminals are too loose, even if the battery has plenty of power. For whatever reason, the sudden draw of current doesnt work (when you try to start it), then it acts as if there is no connection again. Disconnecting or wiggling the terminals will "fix" the problem, and its a matter of wiggling enough to get a good tight connection before the vehicle would crank over.

Anyway, as mentioned, check the terminals at the battery, check the ground on the strut tower and the engine block - clean (rust/corrosion free) and tight, both the cable end and the mounting surface. In fact, unbolt them, clean with a wire brush, and reattach. Make sure the positive cable is tight on the starter - clean and tight as well, same as before.

These cars are notorious for having battery cable problems over the years. I would be more inclined to replace terminals and cables than any other components at this point.

~T.J.

mazdaverx713b

iTrader: (91)

the final ground point on the negative cable is on the upper left (driver's side) of the trans to engine bolt under the oil cooler. also check for breaks in the negativ cable's shielding allowinf for moisture to get in and corrosion to set in.

RX7Tokyo

Thanks for all the help so far guys. I'm going now to check those grounds and to put a new positive terminal on. I'll let you all know how it turns out.

RX7Tokyo

Well...
ITS ALIVE! Thank you all so much for your help. I replaced the positive terminal and cleaned all the grounds I could reach right now. (I'll get to the ones on the trans and engine block later.) One part that I noticed was the connection between the positive terminal and the fuseable link box. Nobody mentioned that one?

Anyways it runs now. Thanks again to all of you. Sometimes you just need to step back... and then hit it with a hammer a few times.