i've only been able to get the car to start once, right after i bought it and it died after a spin around the block and i didn't have time to work on it.

now fast forward 2 months later, i've changed all the fluids, filters, spark plugs, cleaned all the connections to the battery, starter, coils, done the MMO treatment and i try to start it but it doesn't start.

the engine turns over, i installed a fuel cutoff so it's not flooding, but it just won't START. another thing, the headlight pops up and retracts but no light. all other electronics work fine - stereo, windshield washer, windows, A/C. i installed a new battery as well.

i'm checking the fusible links tomorrow, but i was hoping someone would have more ideas on the problem as this seems to be a perfectly fine engine.

thanks in advance!

 

I felt your pain, mine wouldnt start for the longest too, ended up that the gas tank had some crud in it, have you checked the fuel output by pulling off the fuel inlet hose and check the output by cranking the engine with the line off? you have probably tried all of the above but just wanted to share my problems,,,,and good luck,,,,,,,

 

I have to agree it might be the fuel supply. Also, the headlights not working is probably the headlight switch.

 

Is there voltage to the coils? Are you’re spark plugs firing? Do they spark when you have them out and pressed against the block? Or if you have a spark tester you can confirm that you are getting the juice to the plugs.

As the song says, give me fuel give me fire give that which I desire.

Defiantly confirm the fuel side, and you may want to peek at the fire part (ignition).

 

I have the same car, maybe I can help....

I have had **** happen like this before, I've had times when the car would only start by push starting it due to extreme flooding. The car was tied up to my jeep and pulled to start. Mean while almost everything has been replaced.

Possible causes:
Fuel pump- Jack up the car and click the key 2 clicks forward so dash lights come on. You should be able to hear noise coming from it. That means it's working, but if you have cash get a fuel pressure guage that way you always know.

Battery/alternator- this car will not run if the alternator is fried, Check to see if the new battery is fully charged, what happens is the alternator if faulty, makes the car run off the battery and it gets drained extremely quickly. Once again check your dash to see what your voltage is at. But even still have a battery charger hooked up to the battery on BOOST, when you're trying to start the car, it really helps. And tighten your battery terminals (trust me on that, just do it.... even tough you have power in the car)

Plug wire order- Just double check anyways

Compression- Don't worry cause even with my old motor with compression in one rotor it still started up perfectly.

Spark plugs- take one out and just examine it, even though it is new, see the condition, they get dirty fast if something is wrong, that way you double check if any flooding has occured, even past the fuel cut-off. You can never be sure. And check to see if you are getting a spark.

Distributor cap w/rotor- check those out, can be the source of problems. If worn replace them both, not to expensive and it's good to get that out of the way.

Ignitors (2 little black boxes on side of distributor cap)- if those don't work, your car won't start. get the haynes manual and do the check, its really simple and you get the piece of mind that they work properly. But usually they don't fail. (you never know)

But if you have checked the car over before, get a friend with another car, get a tow rope and jump start it at a higher gear like 2nd or 3rd. Usually that works but it makes tons of smoke but after that clears the car will run perfectly. There have been time that was the only way the car would start if it sat for along time, even though the battery was good and everything was fine.

Once it's started and warmed up rev it to 6,000 rpm, if you were having a fuel pump problem it you'll know cause it will have problems, getting there... if it does get there.

That was stuff off the top off my head that I can remember from past experience, gladly my car is running fine at the momment. If I can think of anything else I'll let you know.

www.portugesethug.homestead.com/jim.html

 

Pull the Leading and Trailing coil wires from the dizzy cap. Put them on the strut tower with a spark gap of a few mm (1/8 to 1/4 inch). Make sure you can see the sparks when you go to crank the engine. Crank. If no spark, then check your wires.

If you have spark from both, return everything to 'runable' condition and have a buddy push or pull your GSL-SE. Sometimes this is the only way to get one to start.

You may have a bad ECU. Look under the passenger's foot area (under the carpet). Check all connections for corrosion. If you have access to another ECU it would be good to swap it in.

I think my friend has at least one ECU for a GSL-SE. If you are interested I suppose we could work something out.

 

Listen to these suggestions. After my troubles, I'd go straight to the ignitors. There is a complicated way to test them but... get a trouble light and put it on the leading then trailing plug wires most likely one or both won't work. Ebay is a good place to find replacements. Your crafty Mazda dealer will want your right arm for just one. I had just the one on the leading side (the one on the front of the distributor) not working, and my car was flaky starting. Sometimes nothing and some times starting just fine. Always running kinda bad.

Good luck
Jim

 

thanx for all the great suggestions - i'll take a look this weekend and report back what i find. that way in the future maybe someone will learn something from my experience.

right now with all the airline layoffs going on they're making me work late late hours. wish i can spend more time w/the cars.