'84 GSL-SE Price?
06-28-05, 05:24 PM
#1
Bigus Rotus
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'84 GSL-SE Price?
How much should I pay for a fuel injected stock car? I found one for sell, that has been re-painted and has a solid motor. Just give me some price ranges to expect to offer.
I can post photos later this week.
I can post photos later this week.
06-28-05, 05:33 PM
#2
How many miles? rust? condition?
I have seen some that look like they came right on the showroom go for 6000 range. I have been offered 4000 for my car several times. 2000 for a decent SE.
I have seen some that look like they came right on the showroom go for 6000 range. I have been offered 4000 for my car several times. 2000 for a decent SE.
06-28-05, 09:32 PM
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my first SE I got for $1200 CDN and it had a dented fender, no rust 160,000 kms (99,000 mi) on the body, and unknown milage on the motor
my second SE I got for $500 CDN great motor and body, 190kms on the body, but the car had a blown transmission, which cost me nothing to fix because I had a spare
I wouldn't pay more then $1500 CDN unless the car was mint or had significant mods...
my second SE I got for $500 CDN great motor and body, 190kms on the body, but the car had a blown transmission, which cost me nothing to fix because I had a spare
I wouldn't pay more then $1500 CDN unless the car was mint or had significant mods...
06-29-05, 12:18 PM
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Got mine with 115k miles, "One Owner", paint ok, interiors excellent. Just have to put front struts, one bushing and recharge the a/c system. $1150. Drive every day to go work. Almost sold it to a friend and after I saw their reaction when they saw it I decide to keep it.
06-29-05, 12:31 PM
#7
84SE-EGI helpy-helperton
7 years ago, paid $2750 for my SE - faded paint, but everything else was about 95% condition. A/C recharge, some time spent fixing the little things, and it was money well spent.
Bought it from my dad, so it's always been in the family - and he bought it new from the dealership in 84.
At this age (20+ years old), I would say that you should expect to pay about $2000 for a good SE in running condition. If the PO has done some work to it like exhaust, new seats, etc., then expect to pay a bit more. Remember, too, that the EFI SE's are the creme-de-la-creme of the 1st Gen cars, and if the PO knows this, he's going to be asking a higher price because they're pretty rare. HTH,
Bought it from my dad, so it's always been in the family - and he bought it new from the dealership in 84.
At this age (20+ years old), I would say that you should expect to pay about $2000 for a good SE in running condition. If the PO has done some work to it like exhaust, new seats, etc., then expect to pay a bit more. Remember, too, that the EFI SE's are the creme-de-la-creme of the 1st Gen cars, and if the PO knows this, he's going to be asking a higher price because they're pretty rare. HTH,
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06-29-05, 03:52 PM
#9
if it's got an old tired engine and in "ok" shape, meaning some scratches, slightly faded paint, and minimal rust -- you have a good shot at picking it up under $1000.
i got mine for 800 after i pulled off the radiator cap and said "EWWW!" at the brown coolant.
i got mine for 800 after i pulled off the radiator cap and said "EWWW!" at the brown coolant.
06-29-05, 04:50 PM
#10
wheres the water goin?
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i got my 84 gsl-se w/full rb exhust , intake , light weight flywheel, progresive springs, and struts. paint has some sun spot do that it was in arizona w/144000 miles but she still runnin strong i got it all for 2500 im not complaining 
06-29-05, 11:50 PM
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I think it may be a little pricey.
I would get a compression check on that engine before you pay for it. It doesn't look bad, most of the stuff that you would have to do would run pretty cheap but 160K means one of two things to me.
1. The engine has been well maintained and taken care of
2. You will be doing some serious engine work in the near future.
I paid 1K for my car. Your paint is better than mine but I have fewer miles (130ishk) and I know the engine is still good.
I don't think 3K is a bad price but I would make darn sure you aren't going to buy a rebuild in three months.
I would get a compression check on that engine before you pay for it. It doesn't look bad, most of the stuff that you would have to do would run pretty cheap but 160K means one of two things to me.
1. The engine has been well maintained and taken care of
2. You will be doing some serious engine work in the near future.
I paid 1K for my car. Your paint is better than mine but I have fewer miles (130ishk) and I know the engine is still good.
I don't think 3K is a bad price but I would make darn sure you aren't going to buy a rebuild in three months.
06-30-05, 04:54 PM
#18
Bigus Rotus
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Originally Posted by wklink
I think it may be a little pricey.
I would get a compression check on that engine before you pay for it. It doesn't look bad, most of the stuff that you would have to do would run pretty cheap but 160K means one of two things to me.
1. The engine has been well maintained and taken care of
2. You will be doing some serious engine work in the near future.
I paid 1K for my car. Your paint is better than mine but I have fewer miles (130ishk) and I know the engine is still good.
I don't think 3K is a bad price but I would make darn sure you aren't going to buy a rebuild in three months.
I would get a compression check on that engine before you pay for it. It doesn't look bad, most of the stuff that you would have to do would run pretty cheap but 160K means one of two things to me.
1. The engine has been well maintained and taken care of
2. You will be doing some serious engine work in the near future.
I paid 1K for my car. Your paint is better than mine but I have fewer miles (130ishk) and I know the engine is still good.
I don't think 3K is a bad price but I would make darn sure you aren't going to buy a rebuild in three months.
06-30-05, 05:34 PM
#19
84SE-EGI helpy-helperton
That seems a little high. Pictures of the outside look great, and that's a Mazda Factory Race front airdam, if I'm not mistaken. The wheels aren't right for the car (are those hubcaps?), but the interior is going to need some work to get back into good condition. That door panel missing on the right side means you'll need to source one from a local parts yard that has the same amount of 'fade' or it won't match. Plus, the stereo center is missing, which isn't cheap from Mazda.
Engine compartment looks good - that bit of rust at the front radiator shroud can easily be sanded and repainted - or just replaced for <$100. The engine block looks solid with no obvious oil leaks around the housings (dowell pins), or below the DEI chamber. If it starts and runs well (particularly idle at 800-900 rpm), I'd focus on bringing the price down based on the interior.
I would ask him to come down to about $2000 and see if he'll meet you halfway at $2500. For $2500 you could have a very nice running and looking car that will last you for another 40k miles if the engine is strong. HTH,
Engine compartment looks good - that bit of rust at the front radiator shroud can easily be sanded and repainted - or just replaced for <$100. The engine block looks solid with no obvious oil leaks around the housings (dowell pins), or below the DEI chamber. If it starts and runs well (particularly idle at 800-900 rpm), I'd focus on bringing the price down based on the interior.
I would ask him to come down to about $2000 and see if he'll meet you halfway at $2500. For $2500 you could have a very nice running and looking car that will last you for another 40k miles if the engine is strong. HTH,
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