300zx

Hey all, Today i was drive to where i am going to be moving and i was drive i saw a rx7 out of the coner of my eye. So i have to stop and check it out and it was a 1984 gsl-se with 200,000kms on it . Its in pretty good shape and when i was looking at it the guy came and talked to me and i am going to test drive it tomorrow! So my question is, is there big problems with this model? is it a good model to own ? hp ? what kind of thing should i listen for when i test drive it ? is there away to check how long the engine will last ? pretty much any info you can give me i would like to know. THX

Manntis

The GSL-SE is the top of the line model. Others seem to prefer the 12a Carbureted, but for me the 13B EGI (135 hp stock, easily closer to 160-170 after you bolt on the RB exhaust system and switch to a K&N filter) is a better daily driver engine.

200k kms is a bit high, but mine is only 9,000 less than that and runs strong.

300zx

Is there a way i can check the life thats left in it ?? its only $1600 and i most likely get it for like $1200. or what i can listen for tomorrow when driving it ? its a 13b in that model?

Manntis

for $1,200 it's a deal. You can get a rebuilt engine for less than $1,500 USD (http://www.wigglepup.com/RX-7/feature_rebuild.php)

And yes, if it's a GSL-SE it has the rugged 13B in it.

300zx

thats in Canadian money ? Is it a quick car and will i be happy with it ? i think if i were to get it i would put it in the garbage and work on it for the winter! i also guess you don't know what i should listen for when i drive it?!? Should i take it to a mazda place and get the compression test thing ?

85RX7GS

iTrader: (1)

Man, you're lucky. I'd buy it if I were you. The first ReX that I looked at was an SE - too bad it was rusty and wouldn't start.

300zx

Yeah it runs and its got some rust but i think i could fix it all up! I really like the car does anyone know what i can listen to when i am driving it today to tell me how much life there is in it ?!?

Directfreak

iTrader: (2)

Work in the garage. It's always a pain to work in the garbage when peple keep coming and throwing more garbage on top of you.

300zx

True true lol that just bad spelling!!

Manntis

depends on the amount of rust. If it's on the 'skin', i.e. fenders etc it can be fixed easily. If it's in the wheel wells, under the storage bins, eating through the rocker panels, or other structural locations then the car could be a headache.

the engine rebuild price I quoted was USD as in US Dollars, but I paid $4,000 for my GSL-SE in near mint condition so $1,200 plus TLC isn't too bad.

Defprun

I think you should go carburated 12a. Mainly because they look better, last longer, smell better, shine prettier, easier to drive, their faster, easier to modify... What else?

ioTus

iTrader: (5)

I disagree. I like the 13b EFI.

Mainly because they look better, last longer, smell better, shine prettier, are easier to drive, (they driver faster), easier to modify, more horsepower, more possible upgrades, better aftermarket wheel selection, bigger engine, engine mounts are easier to work w/ if you are swapping engines, and they have more base options to begin with.

(sorry defprun, i had to )

Defprun

I would have to disagree further.

12a base cars are lighter, easier to swap engines (no horendous wiring clutter), manual steering is better, most people usually slap on a carburator on a 13b anyway, so why not get a head start? More carby options for the 12a!!!!

he he he he he!

Manntis

People who don't understand fuel injection slap on a carburetor. As to reliability, the 13B in the SE is often recognized as one of the most bulletproof rotaries in a Mazda.

85RX7GS

iTrader: (1)

Right on

Directfreak

iTrader: (2)

Oh, Oh...

Looks like deprfum has SE Envy.

sweetege

I would have to agree with iotis. I have an 84 se and they are nice, talk about power it's got it. 170,000 miles and running strong. But a question is their anyway to tell if the engine is ported or not because if it isn't with that much power (i love RX-7's), thanx for any help.and also anyone got a tps for sale, thanx

Felix Wankel

I liked my -SE, but I had already blown so much money on the GS that I couldn't sell it or have the -SE painted. I sold it to a guy in Florida the weekend a hurricane was supposed to hit and never heard from him again

I wish I still had it sometimes.

sweetege

Still wondering if there is anyway to tell if an engine is ported, and does anyone have a tps for sale? thanks

JEC-31

-SE's are the top of the line: their 13Bs rule in the categories of 1st gen stock power, modified power, and durability. The sharpest power steering, the best peformance gearing, the limited slip dif, and the larger wheels with a more common bolt pattern are nice, but the kicker is the biggest 1st gen brakes offered.

Listen to Manntis and examine the rust carefully. I always recommend removal of both the storage bins to see if the rear wheel wells are rotting from the inside out - this is a critical area due to the proximity of suspension pickup points. If you are experienced and full of resources for bodywork, it's possible to repair it. If not (like me) then you find a less rusty shell and begin transferring parts... which is turing into a very long project.

cjf

iTrader: (1)

yeah, better check the rust...i think 1200.00 usd with rust and 200,000 miles is not a good deal. I would wait and find a lower mileage car and no rust (if you can) ...but....but...if the guy has receipts for all kinds of work done (ie: shocks, struts, tires, tune up, etc..) then you might be ok.If you have to put all kinds of money into parts that are all worn out...I would say stay away from it unless you could get it for 700.00. ..no ifs, ands, or butts.....cjf

Arthur Dent

he is quoting Cdn money. So $1200 Cdn is pretty damn close to $700US