84 GS restoration project advice
08-14-01, 08:36 PM
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84 GS restoration project advice
I have posted my current issues on another thread but was advised to start a new thread for larger responce.
My basic story is that I owned a 84 RX-7 GS when I was 18 and I had so much fun that my parents felt that I should drive a four door pontiac pheonix instead. grrr. Any way, for the last five years my old car has been sitting on a farm rusting away and falling apart. I am now 27 and a bit more calm and want to restore my old car to as near as new as I can. So far, I have replaced the rear window that was damaged in a hail storm six weeks ago. and removed the pasenger outer side tie rod end that was damaged by my mom driving "her" car into a curb.... (and I, was dangerous???) I will be draining all the fluids this weekend and removing the exhaust system ( it's totaly shot) the interor carpet has all been torn out and the inside floor s of the car look good. I have put a battery in and most all of the electrical systems seem fine. what I am looking for advice on right now is, what are the best methoids to repair the body and any pointers that anyone my have on working on cars that have sat for a long time. sory this post was so long I just haven't learned how to be more concise.
My basic story is that I owned a 84 RX-7 GS when I was 18 and I had so much fun that my parents felt that I should drive a four door pontiac pheonix instead. grrr. Any way, for the last five years my old car has been sitting on a farm rusting away and falling apart. I am now 27 and a bit more calm and want to restore my old car to as near as new as I can. So far, I have replaced the rear window that was damaged in a hail storm six weeks ago. and removed the pasenger outer side tie rod end that was damaged by my mom driving "her" car into a curb.... (and I, was dangerous???) I will be draining all the fluids this weekend and removing the exhaust system ( it's totaly shot) the interor carpet has all been torn out and the inside floor s of the car look good. I have put a battery in and most all of the electrical systems seem fine. what I am looking for advice on right now is, what are the best methoids to repair the body and any pointers that anyone my have on working on cars that have sat for a long time. sory this post was so long I just haven't learned how to be more concise.
08-14-01, 09:08 PM
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This is Great...A Buckaroo from Fargo!
I live in Fargo too, but Fargo, Ohio...Loved your movie...Heh, heh
Anyways, in regards to your project. Neat way to have some fun. If I were you I'd tackle the mechanics before taking on any body work. Replace both of your tie-rods, the ball-joints, and idler arm bushing. You might wanna consider going with polyurethane for the better handling. Take the butterfly warm-air plate out of your airfilter snorkel, and swap over to a K&N air filter. New plug wires (NGK), new plugs(NGK, new cap and rotor. Do an MMO on your engine...Get some Marvel Mystery Oil, squirt it into the plug holes, put in your plugs, and fire it up. Cleans up the housings and rotors...Now put a half a quart of MMO into your crankcase, and another half quart into the fuel tank. Do this every oil change, your 7 will love you for it....
Check your brakes! If she's been sitting for a time you wanna make sure that those calipers are working correctly! Change your brake fluid and clutch fluid. Dump the gear oil from the trans and the diff, replace with synthetic. (Do not use synthethic in the crankcase) Change your fuel filter....Now, get yourself a header, drop the cats, and replace with a resonater and a rear muffler. Have some fun til the snow flies, then we'll tackle the bodywork next Spring....
Who, Me? Shucks, just hossin' around...
A tip of the Stetson,
Denny from the old corncrib....
I live in Fargo too, but Fargo, Ohio...Loved your movie...Heh, heh
Anyways, in regards to your project. Neat way to have some fun. If I were you I'd tackle the mechanics before taking on any body work. Replace both of your tie-rods, the ball-joints, and idler arm bushing. You might wanna consider going with polyurethane for the better handling. Take the butterfly warm-air plate out of your airfilter snorkel, and swap over to a K&N air filter. New plug wires (NGK), new plugs(NGK, new cap and rotor. Do an MMO on your engine...Get some Marvel Mystery Oil, squirt it into the plug holes, put in your plugs, and fire it up. Cleans up the housings and rotors...Now put a half a quart of MMO into your crankcase, and another half quart into the fuel tank. Do this every oil change, your 7 will love you for it....
Check your brakes! If she's been sitting for a time you wanna make sure that those calipers are working correctly! Change your brake fluid and clutch fluid. Dump the gear oil from the trans and the diff, replace with synthetic. (Do not use synthethic in the crankcase) Change your fuel filter....Now, get yourself a header, drop the cats, and replace with a resonater and a rear muffler. Have some fun til the snow flies, then we'll tackle the bodywork next Spring....
Who, Me? Shucks, just hossin' around...
A tip of the Stetson,
Denny from the old corncrib....
08-14-01, 09:16 PM
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Bah... All my posts are that long or longer. I'm suprised people aren't pissed. As long as it's got good info and all and you're not rambling all the time. (Once in a while is okay. 
)
Anywho. Pop out the storage boxes behind the seats and look for rust. Lot of people get that rust and many have good methods of repairing it. I was going to grind away all the rust and rivet a metal plate over teh rust hole and weld the plate down, then coat the area with anti rust and under coating.
Also check the lower edge of the doors and the lower edge of the hatch.
I saw your other post about water leakage. I suspect the hatch seal or the drainage holes on the hatch. Open the hatch. Look around the edge and see a couple round holes for water drainage. Spray something down them and you should see it drip out from under the car. If you don't, the hose is clogged. Carefully clean it with a piece of stiff wire (coathanger or similar). But don't knock thehose off or you'll have a time getting it back on. (There are similar drainage holes if you have a sun roof.)
Be sure the gas is good in your tank. 9 yr old gas has probably turned into goo and if theres some in your fuel system, it's probably gunked it up. This would necessitate a carburetor rebuild and cleaning of the fuel system at the least. Replacement of the fuel pump is probably also mandatory if the fuel has turned into goo. Try draining the fuel. There's a plug on the bottom of the gas tank. Don't forget to replace the filter.
You probably should do the ATF treatment on your engine before starting it. Remove the spark plugs. Shoot a little Automatic transmission fluid (A better alternative is Marvel's Mystery Oil (MMO). It comes in a red bottle. Also use it as a fuel additive and add one quart to your oil when you change it. It's good stuff.) into the spark plug hole. Turn the engine pulley one rotation with a breaker bar or wrench. (Or tap the key into the Start position, jsut to turn the engine a little.) shoot a little more ATF/MMO into the spark plug hole. Turn the engine again, shoot some fluid in for a third time. Do this for both the front and back rotor. For best results, let it soak into the engine for 24 Hours or more.
The ATF/MMO penetrates the apex seal grooves and breaks down carbon build up that can hinder the operation of the apex seals and decrease performance. Not only that, but since they have sat for so long, they may be stuck in those grooves.
I dunno your mechanical knowledge, so forgive me. I don't mean to insult you.
See in the edge of teh triangular rotor the blakc apex seals. They ride up and down in a groove cut in teh edge of the triangle as it gets closer and further to teh side fot he rotor housing. When it gets stuck in the in position, you loose compression because the gasses leak around it and therefore, you loose power. Symptoms also include, hard starting (especially when cold) and misfiring.
Take it easy on the engine for the next few hundred miles to re-break it in. If you get rev happy now, you'll toast one of the apex seals and the fragments will scrape around insode the rotor housing, possible ruining the rotor and housing.
)Anywho. Pop out the storage boxes behind the seats and look for rust. Lot of people get that rust and many have good methods of repairing it. I was going to grind away all the rust and rivet a metal plate over teh rust hole and weld the plate down, then coat the area with anti rust and under coating.
Also check the lower edge of the doors and the lower edge of the hatch.
I saw your other post about water leakage. I suspect the hatch seal or the drainage holes on the hatch. Open the hatch. Look around the edge and see a couple round holes for water drainage. Spray something down them and you should see it drip out from under the car. If you don't, the hose is clogged. Carefully clean it with a piece of stiff wire (coathanger or similar). But don't knock thehose off or you'll have a time getting it back on. (There are similar drainage holes if you have a sun roof.)
Be sure the gas is good in your tank. 9 yr old gas has probably turned into goo and if theres some in your fuel system, it's probably gunked it up. This would necessitate a carburetor rebuild and cleaning of the fuel system at the least. Replacement of the fuel pump is probably also mandatory if the fuel has turned into goo. Try draining the fuel. There's a plug on the bottom of the gas tank. Don't forget to replace the filter.
You probably should do the ATF treatment on your engine before starting it. Remove the spark plugs. Shoot a little Automatic transmission fluid (A better alternative is Marvel's Mystery Oil (MMO). It comes in a red bottle. Also use it as a fuel additive and add one quart to your oil when you change it. It's good stuff.) into the spark plug hole. Turn the engine pulley one rotation with a breaker bar or wrench. (Or tap the key into the Start position, jsut to turn the engine a little.) shoot a little more ATF/MMO into the spark plug hole. Turn the engine again, shoot some fluid in for a third time. Do this for both the front and back rotor. For best results, let it soak into the engine for 24 Hours or more.
The ATF/MMO penetrates the apex seal grooves and breaks down carbon build up that can hinder the operation of the apex seals and decrease performance. Not only that, but since they have sat for so long, they may be stuck in those grooves.
I dunno your mechanical knowledge, so forgive me. I don't mean to insult you.
See in the edge of teh triangular rotor the blakc apex seals. They ride up and down in a groove cut in teh edge of the triangle as it gets closer and further to teh side fot he rotor housing. When it gets stuck in the in position, you loose compression because the gasses leak around it and therefore, you loose power. Symptoms also include, hard starting (especially when cold) and misfiring.
Take it easy on the engine for the next few hundred miles to re-break it in. If you get rev happy now, you'll toast one of the apex seals and the fragments will scrape around insode the rotor housing, possible ruining the rotor and housing.
08-14-01, 09:22 PM
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My poor baby
every thing you said is on my current list of projects but being very short of cash right now I am thinking that basic body work might be somthing I can do right now. cleanig my car is free and working on scratches is nearly so. speaking of that what is the fastest way to get pine tree sap off my car? cold or hot it is a real pain. my paint is ruined so that isn't really a consern but I want to get it off.
08-14-01, 09:37 PM
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this is great.
pele,
I do have a fair amount of knowledge on how a Rotory works and this is the 1st/ and 3rd RX-7 I have owned I also had a red 82 but it was in really poor shape. don't wory I am not insulted at all just giving you an idea that I know it isn't a strange kind of 4 cyl engine (Grin) the advice you have given so far is wonderfull and yes I think that the rear drain holes were my problem we are soposed to have a storm tonight so we'll see tomarow. it did drain 4 quarts of water poured on top in no time... I don't have access to a hose in my apartment. I am working on winter storage arangements with a friend where I can work on the car and maybe rebuild the engine (depending on condition) I have pulled the rear boxes when I pulled the carpet and there is some light rust but not as much as I expected. I am looking forward to any thing else anyone has to say.
I do have a fair amount of knowledge on how a Rotory works and this is the 1st/ and 3rd RX-7 I have owned I also had a red 82 but it was in really poor shape. don't wory I am not insulted at all just giving you an idea that I know it isn't a strange kind of 4 cyl engine (Grin) the advice you have given so far is wonderfull and yes I think that the rear drain holes were my problem we are soposed to have a storm tonight so we'll see tomarow. it did drain 4 quarts of water poured on top in no time... I don't have access to a hose in my apartment. I am working on winter storage arangements with a friend where I can work on the car and maybe rebuild the engine (depending on condition) I have pulled the rear boxes when I pulled the carpet and there is some light rust but not as much as I expected. I am looking forward to any thing else anyone has to say.
08-14-01, 09:38 PM
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I know whatcha mean. Everytime I post sometihng suggesting a course of action. I try to be budget minded if not dollar figure is given. I don't have any cash to spend on my car either. The only things that cost much at all that should get you up and running are the various fluids you need to replace, a fuel filter (Less than $5), and a quart or two of MMO (Only a few dollars a quart.) Us poor folk gotta stick together.
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