83 gs dying after choke
10-18-08, 01:30 AM
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83 gs dying after choke
this is the conversation i had with the guy starting actually from the bottom i lookin into buyin this car but wanna try and figure out the problem.. if the couple pics of the engine bay would help let me know and ill get them posted. it looks kinda crapy like its been sittin for a while which it has so i know basicly im gonna have to run through and change some vaccum lines and all that good stuff.. but really wanna figue the major issue out with the dying.
not idle as in quit. and clutch pedal bleed off as in hydraulic fluid leaking past the cylinder cups and letting the clutch reengage. I do have new seal kits for the slave and clutch master cylinder but never installed them. did not do a compression test. not sure where you live but are welcome to come check it out. Thanks Chris.
so what do you mean by it would not idle? as in not correctly or completely die out? what do you mean by the clutch pedal would bleed off and release the pedal? explain that too me a little more please? and do you have the meams to do a compression check? talk to you soon. kevin
I have had the car for 2 yrs with the intent to put it on the road but had other priorities. I traded my s10 for it with a guy i work with who got it from a trade so past history is unknown but it looks stock. It would start and run when cold but when the choke kicked off it would not idle. The other problem was the clutch pedal would bleed off and release the clutch after about 15 seconds. I haven't messed with it much since i got it but was told it had a new fuel pump. Thanks Chris.
WHAT EXACTLY IS THE PROBLEMS WITH THE CAR..? HAVE YOU OR CAN YOU DO A COMPRESSION TEST..? HAVE YOU MODIFIED OR HAS ANYONE MODIFIED THE CAR WIRING SUSPENTION OR ENGINE IN ANYWAY? CAN I GET SOME MORE PICS UNDER THE HOOD UNDER THE CAR AND INTERIOR PLEASE? THANKS FOR YOUR TIME KEVIN
not idle as in quit. and clutch pedal bleed off as in hydraulic fluid leaking past the cylinder cups and letting the clutch reengage. I do have new seal kits for the slave and clutch master cylinder but never installed them. did not do a compression test. not sure where you live but are welcome to come check it out. Thanks Chris.
so what do you mean by it would not idle? as in not correctly or completely die out? what do you mean by the clutch pedal would bleed off and release the pedal? explain that too me a little more please? and do you have the meams to do a compression check? talk to you soon. kevin
I have had the car for 2 yrs with the intent to put it on the road but had other priorities. I traded my s10 for it with a guy i work with who got it from a trade so past history is unknown but it looks stock. It would start and run when cold but when the choke kicked off it would not idle. The other problem was the clutch pedal would bleed off and release the clutch after about 15 seconds. I haven't messed with it much since i got it but was told it had a new fuel pump. Thanks Chris.
WHAT EXACTLY IS THE PROBLEMS WITH THE CAR..? HAVE YOU OR CAN YOU DO A COMPRESSION TEST..? HAVE YOU MODIFIED OR HAS ANYONE MODIFIED THE CAR WIRING SUSPENTION OR ENGINE IN ANYWAY? CAN I GET SOME MORE PICS UNDER THE HOOD UNDER THE CAR AND INTERIOR PLEASE? THANKS FOR YOUR TIME KEVIN
11-04-08, 04:18 AM
#3
Question is a bit hard to follow being out of order. Start with a fuel filter, clean/Seafoam the carb, tune up. I trust compression tests that I do, not always trusting of how others perform them. Clutch hydraulics need redone. I make a habit of replacing the master, slave and hose all at once instead of rebuilding them.
11-04-08, 01:33 PM
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ok thanks i planned on givin it all a good run through i was just hopping for suggestions from experience. im not used to messin with the older models ive had a few fc's but ill post more as i go and see if the problem dont get worked out..
11-17-08, 01:41 AM
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ok soo comppression is good and while the car choke is pulled out it runs like a champ. soon as that choke kicks off it falls on its face auromatically???
11-17-08, 05:51 AM
#6
Check this hose.
https://www.rx7club.com/1st-generation-specific-1979-1985-18/hose-question-750125/
Like trochoid said replace master and slave with new or rebuild and you'll be doing it again soon. I like Tokico brand. Thats what Mazdatrix sends.
https://www.rx7club.com/1st-generation-specific-1979-1985-18/hose-question-750125/
Like trochoid said replace master and slave with new or rebuild and you'll be doing it again soon. I like Tokico brand. Thats what Mazdatrix sends.
11-18-08, 11:23 PM
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i checked the hose its in good condition.. i see no vaccum line problems at all.. its a strange problem i dont seem to grasp. its running great untill the idle gets near 1000 then drops off with the choke kicked off it falls flat on its face, im just gonna give it a good cleaning and rebuild the carb.
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11-20-08, 10:18 AM
#8
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ok i took the master and slave cylinder off and well you all was right there is no way im rebuilding.. does anyone know of a place that has good prices because the local auto parts store is like highway robbery for a master cylinder. $79
11-23-08, 03:18 PM
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Oh My Ufckin God I Think Somethin Went Horribly Wrong!!! Well Seei Rebuilt This Damn Carb, And Now Lets See The Thing Is Smoking From The Carb And The Exhaust. The Carb Is Filling Full Of Gas And Well Atfirst It Seemed Like It Was Going Well Then, It All Went To Hell.. Is There Anyone Close That Can Come Lend Me A Hind Or Look At What I Did Wrong And Tell Me How To Correct My Mistake. If Its Not Already Too Late That Is.. Please Please Please!!!
11-24-08, 07:06 PM
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ok well tomorrow im tearing the carb back apart.. there are some differences from mine and the one in the pics sent by 74rx4 not much but the richer air beed and jet arent there when i tore apart my carb.. the whole is there but no threads for anything to even go in that whole.. im gonna tear it apart and take some pics of it tore down and maybe you can give me some advice.. thanks again for all the help..
11-25-08, 06:54 PM
#16
I'm going to assume that you've downloaded the factory carb manual. If not, the link is in my sig. It covers all the 1st gen carbs. Find the correct diagram for yours' and proceed with that. You can test the vent solenoid simply by applying 12 volt power to it. You will hear it click if it's working. You can burnish the 4 sides of the needles by rubbing them on denim cloth. Also check for any machining chips/flakes on the seats. When you set your floats, and they rarely, if ever need adjusting, measurement is taken with the new gasket in place. If you've bent the tangs for adjustment, check for minute scratches left from the tool. That can cause the floats to hang up. When reinstalling the needles, coat them with 3 in 1 oil or PB Blaster. The fuel will soon wash it away, but it will help on initial start up.
I notice that the carb isn't really clean. Pick up a gallon of Berrymans carb cleaner. Last one I bought even had a sieved cup with handle so I could drop all of the small parts in the can, let them soak and not lose parts in the bottom of the can. Break the carb body down into it's 3 main parts, they will fit in the can for soaking. I soak parts for at least 4 hours, I often soak parts over night. Do not soak plastic parts or the floats. Also check that the floats do float and aren't filling with fuel. When installing the floats and needles, be sure the clips are connected correctly.
When parts are removed from the cleaner, blow them out with compressed air, then flush every port/jet using the straw on a can of brake cleaner. Be sure to wear eye protection. If you don't have air, use the brake cleaner.
When disassembling the carb, remove all jets/ plugs, etc.. Keep track of the location of the 3 weights and 2 *****. Follow the exploded diagram for assembly.
When I did my first carb rebuild, I had flooding problems and ended up removing the carb 4-5 times and redoing my work. I still have flooding on most rebuilds, but as I stated in an earlier post, it's due to either the solenoid not being plugged into the correct plug or the needles sticking. I keep several sets of fresh plugs handy until the needles loosen up.
While fresh rebuilds can be extremely frustrating at times, the soulitions are simple. Patience padiwan.
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I notice that the carb isn't really clean. Pick up a gallon of Berrymans carb cleaner. Last one I bought even had a sieved cup with handle so I could drop all of the small parts in the can, let them soak and not lose parts in the bottom of the can. Break the carb body down into it's 3 main parts, they will fit in the can for soaking. I soak parts for at least 4 hours, I often soak parts over night. Do not soak plastic parts or the floats. Also check that the floats do float and aren't filling with fuel. When installing the floats and needles, be sure the clips are connected correctly.
When parts are removed from the cleaner, blow them out with compressed air, then flush every port/jet using the straw on a can of brake cleaner. Be sure to wear eye protection. If you don't have air, use the brake cleaner.
When disassembling the carb, remove all jets/ plugs, etc.. Keep track of the location of the 3 weights and 2 *****. Follow the exploded diagram for assembly.
When I did my first carb rebuild, I had flooding problems and ended up removing the carb 4-5 times and redoing my work. I still have flooding on most rebuilds, but as I stated in an earlier post, it's due to either the solenoid not being plugged into the correct plug or the needles sticking. I keep several sets of fresh plugs handy until the needles loosen up.
While fresh rebuilds can be extremely frustrating at times, the soulitions are simple. Patience padiwan.
.
.
.
.
.
.
11-25-08, 07:23 PM
#17
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thanks alot and yes i found that manual.. it was alot of help although i have found a few differences in my carb than the one the manual shows.. plus i have a newly devolped problem. as you can see in the picture below. when i was taking the carb apart and unscrewing one of the jets or whatever the side of it broke off and now im in trouble with getting it out all together.. is this the end of my carbs life. does anyone have one cheap i can just rebuild..
11-25-08, 07:43 PM
#18
Don't worry about it. Soak as directed and blow out. There are at least 9 versions of 1st gen carbs, counting the fed/CA and manual/automatic versions. Good thing is there are only 3 basic models with minor differences. One of them will match yours'.
11-27-08, 02:37 AM
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hmm another question do you guys have a good pic or a diagram for dummies that shows the order in which i need too hook these vac lines back up to the base of the carb. my retarted self didnt note any of this.. i guess its one of those live and learn things.. thanks again and ill let you know how it turns out as soon as i get everything in order and back on the car.
11-27-08, 02:39 AM
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oh and another question are these other two throttle type cable that are clamped together for the cruise control and do i really need to hook them back up cause its kindof a thorn in my side to figure how they all run through there???
11-27-08, 02:41 AM
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sorry im just thoughtful tonight but one more question and im sleeping for the night. what is this square sensor hanging from a wire out of my firewall exactly do? somethin about the spark plugs is what i see on the tag.. but is it reall just supposed to hang out wherever.. or is there a proper location for this thing?
11-27-08, 10:33 AM
#23
No 2 cables should not be clamped together. There are up to 4 cable pulls on a stock Nikki, accelerator, choke, hot start assist and cruise control. Each has their own cam/lever arm to clip into and work from. Easiest way to reconnect them is just before the carb is bolted down. As a rule, I remove the hot start assist unit. It bolts to the LH strut tower. You will also need to cut off the lever arm from the carb linkage, (bottom one), so it doesn't jamb up later on.
As far as your last question, is this a small, black 1/2" square by 1/4" thick part with a wire? If so, simply bolt it down to the block, it's a condenser of some sort.
As far as your last question, is this a small, black 1/2" square by 1/4" thick part with a wire? If so, simply bolt it down to the block, it's a condenser of some sort.
11-29-08, 05:24 PM
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well i got the carb back on and things seem well there.. but after running for a few i hear a clanking under the car. i looked under and my first cat is glowing red.. what could this be..? its all stock and looks like **** so im thinking its clogged up or something. also the other ??small pipe ?? was conected to the second cat by a rubber hose which melted and is now laying on the ground. i seem to find more and more with this car as i go lol... any help would be great??