rotornoob

iTrader: (2)

well, i got the new fb running yesterday. i was right, it was a compression problem lol. i still feel kinda bad about not telling dude what was wrong but i really wanted it.....

anyways, drove it to work last night and to my dads house this morning. found lots of problems. there is a clunking noise in the front end whenever i hit ANY kind of inconsistency in the road so i think i need to check my bushings, my rack and pinyon (if it is a rack and pinyon im not sure), upper and lower ball joints and so on and so forth.

the cat has a hole in it so it sounds like a harley when it idles. it wont idle above 300 rpms no matter how much carb adjustment i do so i think that the carb needs a rebuild. also running super rich even with a hole in the cat. it was idling really rough and occasionally hunting when i first ran it so i swapped the new cap/rotor/plugs/wires fromt he 83 on to it since the 83 needs an engine rebuild anyways.

also, my overheat exhaust system light intermittently flashes whether the car is cold or at running temps. the oil pressure gague works in this one but im not sure where it should sit. if i let it idle it goes just below 30psi and when i accellerate it goes to just over 60psi depending on how hard im hitting the gas.

i guarantee that the timing is off along with the mixture because it will backfire if i take it to 4k rpms before shifting. i was told that the back brakes need to be replaced, but when i opened the hood and looked at the master cylinder it was bone dry so i added fluid for now...i will bleed them later tonight with my dad's help and see if they are any better.

i occasionally hear/feel a vibration while driving but since the engine idles rough and wont idle at the right speed i can't tell if it is the engine or the drive train/u joints.

anyways, just wanted to post an update on the new fb. looks like i got myself another full on project car

capt murph

Sounds like a project. Good luck.

trochoid

iTrader: (6)

Noob is right. LOL, just kidding. Macphearson struts don't have upper ball joints, only lower. Oil pressure readings are normal. Steering is recirculating ball, r&p didn't show up until the 2nd gens.

What do you mean when you say it has a compression problem? Details please. If one or two rotor faces are way down or zero on compression, it will never idle or run smooth. Usually means rebuild time.

Seems like project is a 1st gens middle name. Enjoy.

Lee Lyons

ya good luck...you'd never think that you could spend so much money on a car like this...well I'm living proof that my rolling chassy of a car has cost me a pretty penny so far...but don't get discouraged when it seems like nothings getting done...because it is...just very slowly...because you'll find new stuff to fix...then one day you won't have anything to fix...and you'll be like **** I guess its time to upgrade and you strip her down and rebuild everything

boyee

iTrader: (3)

for your clunking noise check your toe rod ends... do our cars have toe rod ends? and everyones advice is accurate good luck with it

rotornoob

iTrader: (2)

Trochoid : when i said it had lost compression, what i mean is that i had to treat it like it flooded and apply oil to the rotors. i don't know that much about how it actually works in terms of technical numbers yet...im only a beginning mechanic, but my 83 used to flood all the time before i rebuilt the carb and i had to do the oil trick to it, and also if it sat for too long it would just spin fast like it was flooded, and i would do it too. my dad told me that i was restoring compression.

maybe you could just give me a little info to help me out? i have always found you to give good advice.

trochoid

iTrader: (6)

Well thanks for the compliment, even if I am a ****. It's a joke people, no offense intended to anyone.

Carb/rough idle. Check the float levels through the sight glasses. If the carb is still pushing fuel into the engine after it is shut off, it will wash the housings and reduce the compression. If the carb on the other one is still good, switch them. If the problem persists, it could just a tired motor losing compression. There are also 2 electric solinoids on the carb, don't remember exactly what they do, but one shuts off fuel when the ignition is shut of. You can take these out and test them by simply applying battery voltage. If the plunger goes in and out, it works.

Read through the carb section in the stickies, very good trouble shooting info there. If the engine is hunting at idle, could be a vacuum leak.


Suspension. If the clunk happens when you are driving in a straight line, check the ball joints and strut assembly. Look for oil leaking out of the top of the strut, if oily, they are blown. If you have play in the steering, start with the idler arm, check the bushing. Then check the tierods (4). If the ball joints are gone, I usually replace everything, ball joints, tie rods and idler. If you replace one component, you will be replacing the others soon. The new part will put more stress on the worn ones, accelerating thier demise. Besides, I like to take care of a problem once and be done with it, not go back 2 or 3 times and nickle and dime my pocket book nor my time. While you are in there, do the tension rod, lower arm and sway bar bushings too. If the steering is still loose, it's in the steering sector. That is the last part of the steering system that should be touched.

Oil pressure, fine, don't worry about it.

Overheat light. With the hole in the cat, it may be pumping exhaust gas towards the heat sensor, or the cat may be plugging up also. You will need to replace the main cat to pass you emissions, if you get a good enough one, you can gut the 2 precats to pass visual.

With the engine running that rich, not being able to get the idle above 300 rpm, and the overheat light, make sure you leading plugs are firing.

Get your timing set right. Have fun.