82 GSL, emissions removed, basically stock.
Driving down the road it will just turn off, like that, no warning, its like someone pulled the 60amp fusible link.

Things I did:
Checked the wire from the ignition to the battery and all connections thereof, light corrosion, but I cleaned it up and its nice now.
Replaced all the fusible links and cleaned up the connections.
Made sure the positive battery terminal was properly shielded so it wont touch the frame.

Things I noticed:
Its only when the atmospheric temperature is higher (now that its warming up)
It wont die on the way to work (7:30-8:00am) but on the way home (5:30-6:00) it will die (on wednesday when it was parked it had died 5 times on the way home).
Looking at the carb there is gas on the plate below it, never was there before, I think thats because its dieing and there is still fuel in it.

Any help or insight would be appreciated.

 

Sounds like you got a vacuum leak somewhere. The engine is running richer in the morning hours which is helping to overcome the (possible) loss of vacuum. When the engine is running leaner it is getting less fuel, yet the engine is making the same amount of vacuum at any given rpm. With the engine running at normal operating temperature - cover the carb with your hand little by little and you may hear the engine rpm's increase. Basically what you'll be doing is blocking off the air to the carb if the air/fuel mixture is correct, the rpm's should drop, not increase. If it's not a hose or carb vacuum fitting, then it could be the carb gaskets. Be sure everything is tight. Screws, bolts etc... etc.

PS: This has nothing to do with the stalling problem but cut the vacuum secondaries spring in half...or take it out completely...it just makes the gas pedal feel funner. :P

 

Looking for vaccuum leaks... i shall do that.
In this picture a hose is connected, in my car there is nothing, should i cap the line from the carb? (its the a line to the left of the fuel send/return lines looking at the carb from the drivers side of the vehicle)

 

thats your float bowl vent or carb vent i believe, that should be connected... its a vent so don't cap it

 

the carb vent goes down to the rats nest, if you removed that then i can't remember what it eventually connects to, i'm at work at its dark out and i don't feel like leaving the store to check :P

 

does it run fine right up until it dies?? kinda sounds electrical...does it restart okay right away... only happens at low load, constant speed?? uhm...

 

Yeah it runs just fine until it dies, sounds electrical to me. It restarts right away... happens any time though, going through town in the highway... just when it decides to. (and yes the car is fully warmed up before driven anywhere)

 

uhhh....my head hurts...let me sleep on it...not that that will help

 

I have heard that ignitors can be affected by heat. Works fine when cold, then inconsistent when hot. Coils can do the same thing too.

If it were me, I would try switching the ignitors around, and the coils too. If you lose your secondary ignition it should not be very noticeable. If it runs fine after the swap, then you pretty much know that you have a bad ignitor or coil. Hope this helps....

 

Sounds simple enough, but just to make sure I don't do anything wrong how would I do this correctly (for testing purposes).

 

Okay so I switched them around, then the car just overheated while trying to warm it up... what the?

 

Well then.......

If you switched them around and now it is overheating I would guess that the switch got fubared somewhere along the line. Extremely retarded ignition will result in overheating and a cherry red exhaust. You might have ended up firing your secondary plugs as your primary and vice versa.

That's really the only thing that comes to mind right now. Just make sure that you didn't somehow end up with your primary and secondary reversed. Good luck!

 

I think it was just something about it sitting for a week or so before doing this. I fired it up this morning. It smoked a little on start-up but after it was warmed up it was just fine (like normal on a cold day). When I was flipping around the things I noticed on my primary ignitor there was a wire running from the positive (+) part to something right by the radiator hose thats just infront of the carb (i dunno what one that is).

Pic1 is what its connected to
Pic1 is the actual connection itself

I also need to redo the timing I think... right now the mark is lined up to the "L" (from the ignitor to the distributor) rather than "L1" like I think its supposed to be.

 

pic 1 is the temp sensor for the choke.

 

what the... then why would there be a wire from that to my leading positive...
I don't even have a choke.

 

lol I was wondering the same.

 

Okay, I just replaced my alternator too see if that would do anything. just too see if the voltage regulator was being dumb and killing the connecton or whatever, plus the replacement looks better and has no rust on the pulley. It stilled died when I was trying to warm up... just quit. Testing the new alternator I was going to turn everything on: wipers (front/back), ac/fan, head lights, radio, hazard...
well the blinkers, radio, and headlights work... but the ac, wipers, the windshield washer pump/nozzle thing that shoots the stuff at your windshield (both front and back) don't work. These all worked before...

 

Well all the stuff works again... still have to see if it dies on a road test later today, but at least the wipers/ac/etc work now.
I just went through the fuses and replaced the bad one to the back hatch release, then looked over all the wiring behind the radio and made sure everything was okay, then magically everything worked. This car is confusing the hell out of me.

 

lol, yeah, wiring can be a pain, my rear wiper switch somehow can trigger my front wipers, lol... glad that it works now...

 

Okay, the ignitors and coils are switched around fine etc... the car worked well for a weekend. Now its going back to the cutting out. I looked at all the wiring I could and can't find anything. Few things though... in the haynes manual.. by/part of the cruise-control unit there is a "kick-down switch" whats that connect to?
Also part of the choke and check relay goes to the alternator, if that relay is bad would it cause the vehicle to cut out as well?

 

kick down is for the a/t. you don't have one on that car. on your second gen, well unfortunatly you do. damn, you need to bring it over.