mikecraigen

here's what is happening now...

I hooked everything up - won't start. checked fuel lines-ok, check lines after inlet valve ok.. so fuel is coming from pump but not going into engine. hmm... choke wont stay open anymore, ahh fingers! broke off wire from waterpump mainbody.. don't think it will affect running/starting till i get new one. sso basically held choke, and spritzed some gas in carb. runs a little ruff, atf treatment and old plugs (putting in new t'marrah) idles at 3-400 rpm, (day off tues so tuning as much as i can) omp stuck in up position (should i just tear it off and mix?) reading the carb assembly manuals etc. thanks a million KUTUKUTU!! and gonna tear off all that jazz when i fab up some headers (my buddy's '54 dodge M51-deathanddestruction project needs some too...). So anyways, once I coax it to run with full choke by hand ( i'd like to figger out what is up with this i like the little pull knobby!), it will stay running fine and wow do i ever notice the difference in response... wow. . what i figure is that there isn't enough vac. somewhere to draw the fuel in or i've hooked something wrong two things i get confused with.. the saved tube with the two sized ends... i don't see how this works if anyone has a pic of this... other is the port in blackdeaths last pic.. some say leave it open and yet here it is plugged....!?! hmmm..

djessence

sounds like a massive vacuum leak and i dont think all your routing is correct but id have ti double check

mikecraigen

comp freeze!... ok- so... where i am at now is my car will start i have to adjust my idle (3-400rpm now) my omp is siezed in up position, I think I may just premix (this should be better for performance anyways i figure), I Dont see how this saved vac. line with different sized ends goes on -in pic #2 (07/13/08) I have a regular line on in place, the nipple on the engine block under the fller neck, I see some are routing it and others suggest leave it open (preferably filtered (nice touch...), and, "ahh figers!!" I broke a wire off the water pump mainbody sensor (temp., I presume), My biggest problem probably stems from at least one of these factors.
a) My choke does not stay on anymore (I love that little bugger!! There's nothing like the sound of a 12a purring at 3000 for a minute er two in morning.) I wouldn't mind keeping this, especially since now to start the engine i need to; spritz gas down 'er and hold the choke by hand (and I've pulled spring loaded ***** before doing this) Like I said, my idle IS lower, but it was falling off before I did this. Basically it is almost a 2 person job to start it, I have the day off tomorrow, and after I go check out another cream coloured beauty I saw (hopefully in mint shape), I'm going to have to tune it back up to proper Idle, and change my plugs and Oil, Block off that OMP thing (I Imagine it should take as much skill as making the other plates, no?), and then re-check all those line again with the other manuals etc...

also any thoughts on pic #4 (07/13/08)?

'thinking about running hard lines once i figure this thing all out, dress the gal up a little bit!!

mikecraigen

Does length of the line have any effect on the operation of the piece the vacuum pressure is operating? just wondering about making hard line manifold to clamp where old nest was, but nicer I'll call it and Empty Birdsnest!!

djessence

well if you had a hundred foot line im sure it would but i havent noticed any difference from when i first did it with tons of line to spare to where i trimmed everything to the perfect length

mikecraigen

I've re-read the tutorial 20 frickin times... and I still am confused with the throttle opener/saved hose thing, and I don't see what the "two odd metal valves needing to be crimped" are. The rest of my lines are correct though, right?

mikecraigen

Dug out my other carb and threw in parts washer. Gonna try stripping it down, and doin all those neato sterling-mods (inspiring, sir...) Had a hunch and tried 'rigging the broke wire on the water pump; what d'ya know, the choke works! I fitted the unit from other carb, (off parts car -which I'll get to), to get the little linkage piece, and when i connected the broken wire off the pump housing, choke magnet holds! - and there was much rejoicing, but i shorted something *%#@ *%#@^*!!! fuse... ? ... now i guess is as good a time as any to strip it down again, gotta trace that sizzle, plug that OMP and fix the sensor, order some coils, fab an intake, headers and. . . .

Still I can't find a decent picture of this dual ended hose being connected, or of the filler neck vent - I am thinking of just running it to one of the tubes on the airbox.

oh, the parts car. has decent drivetrain bought at estate auction for !175 probably could have fixed it too but needed parts. My plan is to use that combo to power a 16-20 ft boat , so after I learn me up some edumacation on these "de-emmisioned units", full rebuild. I want to try porting and maybe charging it. But can't get too far ahead of myself. Still as it is!

mikecraigen

Bump.

could someone please check last picture post? thanks.

droglnir

wow man, there is still so much more vacuum crap on in that picture then in mine. I totally forgot to get that part and pictures for you, but I will soon enough.

mikecraigen

bump
please check last pic post

droglnir

I looked at that last pick and the part that says doesn't fit, I recall that being there and fitting, but I think I removed it while I was reading some articles on stripping the carb of useless crap. Then the lines with the T and such, don't recall that there either. I don't see any lines coming out the of the intake manifold spacer/insulator either (in the pic). could be all capped, mine reroute back on the themselves I think.