I rebuilt my 82 and can not get the choke to work. I want to keep it all original and yes I know I can remove it. Anyone know the source of the electrical wire that goes to the selonoid that pulls the choke and revs up the engine? Mine gets no power when I pull the choke.

 

Did you reconnect the sensor wire that goes to the back of the water pump housing?

 

Do you mean that when you pull the choke out, nothing happens?

or

When you pull the choke out, it goes right back in when you let go of it?

 

The choke works, and stays out, but it does not kick up the idle anymore. Previously you did not have to press the gas pedal to start it, it throttled up automatically, until it warmed up. On the drivers side, attached to the fender, behind the top of the shock, is a motor that engages and kicks the idle up, mine does not work after the rebuild. The motor works, but it does not get power to it. The wire goes to a massive wiring harness. I did check the sensor behind the water pump, and it is attached. Without this working, it seems that the only way to start it is to press the gas, then it puts off major gas fumes.

 

I think you are looking at the Hot Start Assist, not part of the choke. The choke is operated by a cable that runs from the choke **** straight to the carb...

 

I was looking at the hot start, I get no power to it when I pull out the choke. I am checking and printing off some of the online manuals.

 

I don't believe the hot start assist is related to the choke at all, so you might be looking in the wrong place.

If I remember right, there's a rod on the choke assembly that goes down and connects to the throttle linkage and physically opens the throttle a bit when the choke's pulled. You may have to remove the spring loaded piece to get at it. Make sure it's still connected.

Also worth checking is that when you pull the choke out, pop off the air cleaner and make sure the choke is actually closing - if the cable isn't adjusted properly, that could cause the same issue.

 

What exactly did you rebuild? Carb, engine, the whole car?

This is where the choke cable connects to the carb linkage. First picture with the air box removed, looking from left side of car. Choke cable is the cable in the center of the picture. Second picture, the bi-metal housing has been removed to show the linkage, looking from the right side. Third picture shows the fast idle arm connecting the choke linkage to the throttle linkage, looking down at the top of the carb. Choke **** pulls the cable. Cable pulls the choke linkage. Choke linkage closes the choke plates on the top of the carb and pulls the fast idle rod. Fast idle rod pulls on the throttle linkage to increase the RPMs. Something here is not working properly. Parts aren't connected/installed correctly, the fast idle rod is badly bent or the choke cable itself is broken. First, make sure the business end of the choke cable moves when you pull the ****.
More pics ...http://intertron.com/ron/carb.html

 

It is the hot start, the choke cable works fine, the hot start motor gets no power to engage. I have checked all the relays, and they are fine. Any ideas?

 

As already mentioned, the hot start assist motor will not get power unless the car is hot. Here are the pages from the FSM about testing the hot start assist.

 

When you reassembled the carb, you put the choke mechanism in wrong. Now, when you pull the choke out, the car starts choking because it is getting richer but not idling faster. Sound right?

The choke is supposed to do two things; make things a hell of a lot richer, and increase the idle speed so the engine can deal with the rich mixture and begin warming up. I think you've got your choke doing half the job, probably due to a linkage assembly issue. Just guessing though, only you can say if this sounds right...

 

Yes I did have some linkage problems, the fast idle arm was put in backward. Does anyone have specs for the adjustment for the cable linkage going to the carb?

 

Are these switches sitting in coolant, or are the dry sensors. I think the bottom switch may be bad, it has continuity, but it is above 59 degrees.