You are right about that, in all reality I would prefer to put another rotor in it because its a rotor, but I do not have the funds for a 2,000+ engine when I can get a whole car for 800.

I guess the hope is that is if I put the mustang driveline in it and keep the car relevant so I dont have to get rid of it, later on I can go back to a rotor that is built as hell.........

HOPEFULLY

 

I am Finally around to pulling the engine from the car. I have the entire thing broke loose and ready to go except 1 flywheel bolt.. Using a 14mm offset wrench I managed to get 5 bolts out but the 6th is starting to round off and if it does I have no idea how to get it out because you cant get anything to it thanks to the starter hole being slightly off from where the bolts are.

 

Did you drop the tranny first? I'm not sure why you can't pull the engine with the flywheel still
on it. Although removing the fly wheel with the tranny off and the engine in the car is the easiest
if you have a compressor.

 

I did not drop the tranny.. I was tying to just separate them and leave the tranny in the car so i could take the engine apart just for my curiosity. I though it could be taken out once the bellhousing bolts were removed but when we went to pull the engine it all lifted together and would not separate so my next thought was that the bolts for the clutch plate were somehow holding the 2 together like torque converter bolts do.

I have removed several engines with automatic trannys, but this is the first I have done with a manual trans so I know all the basics but for some reason it would not split

 

Did you remove the starter? There is one trans bolt hiding behind it. The flywheel bolts does not need to come out at this time.

 

We did take out the starter, That trans bolt was not even there, whoever rebuilt the engine and put it back in left a lot of stuff off, loose and believed in RTV as a fix all.

I am going to go back tonight and see if i can work the engine free. I guess the flex plate or shaft or whatever is seized and that is what is stopping it from splitting.

 

This is not an auto and there is no flex plate. Now I understand your issue. I think whats
happening is the small guide tubes that help locate the tranny when bolting it to the engine are
binding as you try to lift the engine out. Try supporting the tranny with the engine barely lifted
then lower the engine a bit and use a large screw driver and some wiggling the engine around
to get it separated. These tubes are only about 1/2 inch in length so once you get it split that far
it will probably pop apart, be ready for that as well so you don't smash anything up.

 

5 out of six What??
Where exactly are these.
all flywheels(stock) I have taken off of Rotary engines have One 54mm nut.

 

To the OP, it would really make your life easier if you read the FSM before starting a project.

 

I had one downloaded on my laptop and must have deleted it so I decided to wing it... Not the best decision. We did manage to break it loose yesterday with a few good shakes on the chain, so now I have it out. With it on the stand would bolting a piece of flat steel bar to the flywheel and using that as a prop to stop the engine from rotating be a decent way to remove that front crank bolt?

 

Don't let the 19mm front bolt fool you its a mother some times. HEAT man, use the torch.

Good to hear you got the engine out.