toddk042

iTrader: (1)

What I first thought was a frozen choke cable, seems to be more of a stiff choke value (if thats what you call it). FYI, I am a total noob to carburetors.
I could not move the value using my fingers, until I sprayed some carburetor cleaner on the spring area. (area A in this photo). I can move it, but the spring seems stiff, and I cannot fully close the choke valve, also shown in the photo below.
manually moving choke valve

In a similar situation, I cannot move the accelerator cable. I can manually move the larger throttle valves by manipulating the levers(?) (B in the photo)


I'm thinking I need to clean up the exterior.
Can I use a tooth brush and some soapy water to clean it?
Once cleaned, what should I use to lubricate? WD-40?

toddk042

iTrader: (1)

Note, I have been looking at the 1980 FSM pdfs, along with both the Chilton, and Haynes manuals, and they do not provide detailed drawing or photos of what the accelerator cable actuates. What Ive noticed is that the Chilton and Haynes just republished a lot of the FSM.

t_g_farrell

iTrader: (1)

Yeah thats pretty normal for the aftermarket manuals. They basically parrot the FSM and try to value add by showing more pics or explaining something a bit more.

t_g_farrell

iTrader: (1)

The choke valve is tied to the accerator linkage and won't close further with the cable until the accelerator moves some. At least thats the way I remember it. Its also tied into it as a fast idle mechanism.

Not sure what you mean by can't move the cable but tweaking the levers is the normal way to manually rev the engine.

I would clean it with a lot of carb cleaner on the outside and hit it with a brush. Then maybe some WD40 on the linkages. All the while be moving the linkages to free them up and dislodge dirt.

BTW, I was just in St. Louis to visit relatives and the weather was fantastic for January.

toddk042

iTrader: (1)

It has been some crazy weather here, even for STL.

What I meant by tweaking the lever, is that I can move the throttle valve (plates, Im a total noob), by moving the bits marked B in the second photo. The gas petal is not moving at all, though while im typing this, I should check if the link from the gas petal to the cab it there. I had to put the end of the throttle cable back on the bit marked C in the photo below.



I wish it would rev. I have not gotten it started yet. Tried to, but it would not catch, then discovered the gas tank has a long rusty hole on the side of it, leaking gas all over the place, so I've dropped the tank for repairs.

Will do the carb cleaning as you describe.

t_g_farrell

iTrader: (1)

Bit C is commonly referred to as the teeter-totter, high tech name eh? You probably need to remove that carb to clean it good and go though it using a rebuild kit. If you do a rebuild do not use the new seats or needles and don't mess with the float settings. Also the extra gaskets for the base are not used due to the phenolic baseplate spacer having built in gaskets that should never need to be removed.

Also this site has a carb manual that may help Foxed.ca.

toddk042

iTrader: (1)

Just toss me into the deep end, why don't ya
The project car list o' things to do gets a little longer.

Oh, on the choke handle, on the dash, is it supposed to only pull out about an inch or so?

t_g_farrell

iTrader: (1)

You are the one that wanted an old car, or did you?

Yep, pulls out about an inch and as the car warms up the magnet holding out should be turned off and it should pull itself back in. This depends on whether the temp sender on the back of the water pump housing is hooked up and working. Otherwise you can just push it in once the car is warmed up by looking at the temp gauge. In your case this is all theoretical until you can get it running.

toddk042

iTrader: (1)

I'll keep an eye out for the temp sender.

Thanks again, for the info.