1st Generation Specific (1979-1985) 1979-1985 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections

79 12a Nikkon carb problem

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Old Oct 7, 2010 | 06:37 PM
  #1  
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From: Torrance, Ca
79 12a Nikkon carb problem

Ok, I just got a rebuild kit for my nikkon. Mainly because the accelerator pump diaphragm was leaking. I change the diaphragm and all the gaskets, needle and seats and adjusted floats. no binding or anything. The problem I have now is that the car starts but wont stay running. Very little fuel is being used and the exhaust is getting cherry red within a minute or so. Any suggestions?
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Old Oct 7, 2010 | 09:17 PM
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You are running far too lean or your timing is excessively retarded. Make sure you didin't leave any vacuum sources disconnected.

Any mods to the car, or is it stock?
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Old Oct 8, 2010 | 01:39 AM
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The only vacuum it had running to it is 2 ports from something of the front of the motor. I got the car from the previous owner this way. It ran great before just had the leak from the Diaphragm. One thing I notice was a bolt was temp. plug with silicon in the intake on the motor side right below the carb plate. I went to clean the intake and it fell right out. I did plug it though.
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Old Oct 8, 2010 | 08:15 AM
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first off nikkon is a camera. the carb is a nikki like a girls name. now if it was running great before why not just fix what was leaking? maybe there's something missing or not done right with the rebuild.
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Old Oct 8, 2010 | 11:06 AM
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Sorry about the name it was a late night. All the gaskets were torn and damaged. I only replaced what was needed as I didnt want this problem.
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Old Oct 8, 2010 | 02:11 PM
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Originally Posted by jeremyqueenerracing
All the gaskets were torn and damaged.
well yeah, taking the carb apart will do that.
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Old Oct 8, 2010 | 04:15 PM
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From: Torrance, Ca
Haha, im not stupid. Thanks for the help though.
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Old Oct 8, 2010 | 04:37 PM
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Ha ha well living in So-Cal will make you that way, heh heh..

Just kiddin'
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Old Oct 8, 2010 | 04:46 PM
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lol, I havent been back to the shop since I posted this so Im going to recheck all my vacuum stuff. That makes sense but I thought I checked everything as far as thats concerned. BTW, The gaskets were already worn and bulging out of the carb before I did the gaskets, therefore, I changed them.
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Old Oct 8, 2010 | 06:17 PM
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Did you completely disassemble the carb, jets, ball bearings, etc?
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Old Oct 8, 2010 | 10:21 PM
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From: Torrance, Ca
No, All I did was the accelerator pump diaphragm, the air horn gasket, throttle body gasket. After having this issue, I reset the floats to what the kit calls for at 5/8" and a drop of 2". I did take theCheck ball plug out to look at the check ball stuff after the problem. The weight is actually sideways on the very bottom. I didnt move anything but just looked. Is this right?
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Old Oct 9, 2010 | 12:58 AM
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Weight should not be sideways. Make sure it and the check ball aren't stuck. Keep an eye on the fuel level in the sight windows, they should stay right at the 1/2 mark. If both front and rear are good, look for vacuum leaks or a vac line that didn't get connected, including the brake booster.
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Old Oct 9, 2010 | 01:22 AM
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From: Torrance, Ca
Alright, I took the weight and ball out, everything's good and I cleaned everything again. The float stays right at half on the windows. As for the vacuum lines, everything is connected as they were before. I did look into the brake booster vacuum as well. The carb is definitely starving for fuel and the fuel pump is plenty good. Would a power valve create this problem?

Just out of curiosity, would a Holley 500 cfm carb bolt up to a stock intake? I believe that is a stupid questions but just wondering. What would need to be changed for the Holley?
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Old Oct 9, 2010 | 09:56 AM
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no holley will bolt to the stock intake. u'll need the holley intake either from RB or mazdatrix. and the holley that RB sells for the stock port engine is a 465cfm.
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Old Oct 9, 2010 | 11:12 AM
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I would go for a sterling, or a used webber setup or something.
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Old Oct 9, 2010 | 03:49 PM
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this thread is totally useless
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