Man_in_black49464

iTrader: (1)

KIWI-RE offers a 6lbs flywheel for 600$AUS
im undecided if this would be worth it as im not racing the car all the time. I just recently learned the value of a ligtend flywheel and im wondering would it be worth it?

thunkrd

iTrader: (1)

i think a normal lightweight would be better for a car that isn't always raced

Keith13b

iTrader: (6)

Ever driven a car with a VERY lightweight flywheel? Its not streetable at all.

vj226966

how does it compair to a regular flywheel?

74RX4

iTrader: (10)

Mazdatrix has info on light flywheels here http://www.mazdatrix.com/f-writng.htm

and stock flywheel ID and weight here http://www.mazdatrix.com/faq/flywheel.htm

I would recommend going with a lightweight steel flywheel (17 lb) if you are doing mostly street driving. Some people like the aluminum (12 lb). Really light (6 lb) ones make you slip the clutch a lot to get the car moving. I love my RB light steel flywheels for street driving.

Rotary Powah

iTrader: (1)

How much better is acceleration with a light steel or 12lb aluminum flywheel? I've always wanted to get one

Man_in_black49464

iTrader: (1)

from what i understand its like "trying to spin a merry-go-round with a fat guy on it" and trying to spin one with a super model on the same one you can get the merry-go-round up to speed faster but it doesnt carry that speed like it would with the fat guy on it.

No offence intended just relateing it to something we could understand

Rotary Powah

iTrader: (1)

Okay I definitely choose the supermodel lol

Jimbo II

I run a 6pd flywheel and a brass button solid center clutch. It was a ***** to learn how to drive but I wouldn't have anything else now, revving other motors feels like winding out a spinning top, it feels so crisp with the lighter flywheel. I'm running a 13B large extend port.

Rotary Powah

iTrader: (1)

hmm... that really makes me want the 12lb one. Would it liven up a stock 12a with an exhaust system?

Man_in_black49464

iTrader: (1)

for sure it would increase your rev climb speed so you will notice a little extra umph when you gas it. but thats what im trying to decide little umph or big umph 12 vs 6lbs

Hyper4mance2k

iTrader: (40)

You have absolutely no idea what you are talking about.
I daily drive my Fb with the RB aluminum 12lb Flywheel, sport/race 4 puck clutch, and race pressure plate... If you can drive a clutch you can drive this no problem.
When I switched from the stock flywheel to the lightweight steel RB flywheel I couldn't tell a difference at all. then switching from the 16lb to the 12lb the only difference is how fast the revs fall in neutral and how quickly the revs fall off throttle. Not one WHP is gained from changing flywheels and I dyno'd in between with no other changes and saw not 1 whp gained or lost. also with the 12lber it'll bounce at idle thel level out. didn't do that before. As far as drivability, it's exactly the same.
Now 6 lbs is really light but most of the rotational weight is in the rotors themselves. Try it and find out. I'm happy with my 12lber though.

GSLSE-YA

12lb flywheel would be my choice also for a street setup. I've ran the light steel 17lb in a street setup, it helped, but I wish I had done the 12lb.

I run a 4lb in my race car now, 8lbs if you include the counterweight. IMO this is to extreme for a street car. It would be OK, but you might get sick of it after awhile. The rotational mass is allready extremely low on the 12lb.

Keith13b

iTrader: (6)

There is a HUGE difference, my friend, between a 10+lb flywheel and a 6lb flywheel.

For the street the lightweight steel is the best bet in my opinion. For mild to moderate racing the 12 lb alluminum is the standard.

If you try to use a very light weight flywheel for street driving, you will end up wearing both the clutch AND the flywheel out quickly. A solid center clutch is almost required, and the metal on metal with the abnormally high amount of feathering will cut right through the flywheel in just a few years causing starnge vibrations that no one can diagnose. You see, getting going from a stand still is the only issue. If you plan on driving extended times w/o stopping - then have at it. But unless you have a very narrow torque range motor - such as in a racing engine - this light of flywheel really won't help too much more than being able to say you have a 6 lb flywheel (compared to say the usual 12lb aluminum). Having that light weight of a fly w/o a PP motor might make you look a little wet behind the ears at the track. Can anyone say Uncle Bens?

patmac6075

iTrader: (26)

I've got a nearly new R/B steel flywheel (no counter weight)....was planning on putting it in my car when I replaced my clutch....finances have changed and I could be persuaded to part with it for the right price/ trades (I need a presilencer and muffler for an '83 12a, also looking for an aftermarket front sway bar and or a R/B strut brace)

PM me if interested

PercentSevenC

I'm running an 8 lb flywheel (sans counterweight; I'm sure that 6 lb one also doesn't include the weight of the counterweight) on the street as a daily driver. It requires a little bit different technique to drive, but I was used to it in less than a week. Just don't use a clutch that's too extreme and it's fine, even in hilly Seattle. There's not nearly as much difference between this one and the RB light steel flywheel I was using before as there was between stock and the RB light steel.

Only "problem" is that it's harder to do long burnouts now.

Kentetsu

Nick

This spring I installed the Mazdatrix (or Racing Beat) 17 Lb. steel flywheel in my car. Can't really tell much of a difference driving on the street, but in autocross you can tell. The car gets up to speed in 1st and 2nd gears a tad quicker.

If I had it to do again, I would definitely consider a 12 Lb, or maybe a 10 Lb flywheel. But I think a 6 Lb would be on the extreme side.

And remember, the lighter the flywheel the greater the wear on both the flywheel and the clutch because you have to feather the clutch a lot more when starting out. I can tell the difference between my 17 Lb and the stock, quite a bit more slippage to get her going.

I would also advise you to stay away from any type of "puck" clutch. I've driven them, and they are a bitch. I'm sure you could get used to it over time, but I just plain didn't like it. And then you have that whole wear issue to deal with again.

I know that some will argue a few of the points that I've made, but since I know you (and how you drive) I'm basing this post on "insider information".

Take a look on Ebay and you can find some pretty good deals on lightweight aluminum flywheel kits (assuming they are of decent quality). Look for ones with replaceable friction surfaces, and something by a brand that you are familiar with. You will also need a counterweight from an auto to match your motor, so budget another $100.00 or so for that. Plus you might need another $40.00 or so for a bolt/spacer kit.

Let me know what you decide on.




.

Jeff20B

iTrader: (13)

Right now I have a choice in installing either a 9 pound no name aluminum flywheel or an RB light steel flywheel at 13 pounds (CW weight is always constantly 4 pounds and therefore irrelevant when comparing aftermarket flywheels). The victim, er I mean vehicle is the GLC.

Jeff20B

iTrader: (13)

In my FB, I installed an RB aluminum flywheel at about 7.5 pounds (12 pounds with CW), an ACT organic street disc, and a centerforce 225mm pressure plate. It drives really very well at not too grabby and not soft or mushy. The pedal effort is perfect for me with the short travel of the '81 FB. The Camden SC adds some extra rotational weight so it will feel lighter if NA. Over all I like it.

tasty danish

iTrader: (5)

I've run a 10lb in damn near every vehicle I've owned (SHO, GTI, miata, rx7) because they were the lightest I could find and I could always stand to go lighter. Man up, grow a pair.

Though I must say I wouldn't drop that kind of money just for a little extra weight loss. But all other things equal, I'd rock it hard.

Jimbo II

Oh yeah to the op please don't give $600 aus to Kiwi RE. There should be other places you can find a 6pd flywheel for cheaper.

Glazedham42

iTrader: (4)

Here's a thought to throw around. Can you use a Fidanza aluminum flywheel from a 2nd gen? It shouldn't matter as long as you have the correct counterweight to match your engine right? They are both be 225mm clutches, so is there anything to keep you from using a Fidanza flywheel like this?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/FIDAN...Q5fAccessories

The light aluminum flywheel from Mazdatrix is $415. If this works it would save a good deal of money. Get a good Exedy clutch kit, and you could have the whole setup for less than the price of the flywheel alone from Mazdatrix.

Jeff20B

iTrader: (13)

That Fidanza works fine in a 1st gen.

whistlepig87

iTrader: (2)

well, why would a flywheel give you a net horsepower gain? All it does is enable faster driveline engagement. Tell me this, does the guy with 4.11 gears have more horsepower than the one with 3.43? No? Well, then how the hell is he always beating the other guy in drag races....Acceleration does not equal horsepower.

thunkrd

iTrader: (1)

which c/w to use on the fidanza on a gslse?
12a?