what the title says is my goal for my winter project. I have a turbo II motor disasymbled and ready for porting in my garage. What else should i do to hit this mark and make the motor last a long time. 2 or 3 mm seals? 1 or 2 peice? stronger springs? race bearings? hardened gears? what AR ratio on the turbo? what kind of turbo? what ecu? lock dizzy or 2nd gen coils? stock se trani? stock diff? flywheel and clutch? anything else u could think of.

i have done a lot of research and after talking with atkins i have my answeres but i wanted to know what the collective knowledge of the rx7 gods had to say.

what i found is use 2 peice 3mm seals, stock springs, stock bearings, stock gears, ar ratio of about .8 and use something like a t3 or t4 style, no locked dizzy, 2nd gen coils and ignition, use something like a wolf 3d for an ecu. stock trani if rebuilt, stock rear end if rebuilt, light steel flywheel, 6 or 4 puck clutch. with the large street ported turboII motor.

Ideas? hints?

 

I would suggest a half bridge, full Crane or MSD ignition (for the rev limiters), Racing Beat full race clutch (4-puck solid center and pp), turbo II tranny, T4 - like a t60, address your fuel system as a whole (not just the pump), RB race wires, RB oil press regulator (115 psi), and a fitted Ford 9" rear if you can swing it. Otherwise, take it easy on launches for the stock rear end will fold up like a cheap suit. All this is just for starters. I would really push you towards the Crane ignition over the MSD. Less problematic, easier adjustability, and kick a$$ product support....just no rotary tech support. But I can help u with that.

 

Oh and too bad you don't have a pickup with a 20' trailer (and your own authority)...I have some freight in Lindsay that needs to get to Charlotte, NC asap. Pays a good $1200 for a little more than 5K lbs.

 

400rwhp on an SE tranny? I wouldn't recommend that, even if it was rebuilt. As far as a set-up, I'd say good size streetport and a GT35/40 should get you 400rwhp at around 15-16psi. You can do a search to see what other people are using as far as fuel system and other mods for this turbo. A standalone is a must.

Are you sure you really need 400hp though? I don't want to say its overkill, but even a 300hp 1st gen is insanely quick. 400rwhp just seems down right dangerous.

Good luck though, and keep researching, you can never do enough research.

 

Keep in mind the traction issues you will have too (with 400rwhp). I was running a RB light steel flywheel and couldn't get traction through the 1st 3 gears. That was with a street ported 13B and 7" Camden. I'm running a much more strong of a 13B now, plus the 150 shot, and running a stock flywheel. My only real traction issues are now at the top of 1st, if I'm spraying in 1st.

 

I'm wondering how much your expecting to pay for this upgrade... $4000-5000+?

I would suggest a 5.0L swap with a hot cam and intake, you will have the same weight distribution, you won't have to downshift to get powerban for hillclimbs, you will have lots of power 'under the curve', you will have a durable motor, and your motor be ready for a 150 shot of nitrous if you need over 500hp to hit the 10's and it'll cost less then $2500...

I don't want to start a flame war, but this is the most cost effective way of making a very fast FB, and the 5.0L is the easiest rx-7 v8 swap.

I'm sure some people will reply saying this swap will destroy the soul of the car, but they will be speechless if I take them for a ride in my FB, it has one mean soul of it's own!

Others might say the swap will ruin the handling, the truth is that the swap can ruin the handling if you use a heavy motor, or position it improperly, but done right the car feels great!

I've owned 2 5.0 Mustangs, loved the motor, hated the car.
I've owned 5 FB RX-7s (2 SE's) with all the usually mods, loved the car, couldn't get enough torque out of the motor. Now I have the best of both worlds without having to wonder when my motor is going to blow

 

I think we drive rotary powered cars to have rotary power. It's something different than the rest of the world. I wouldn't do it just for that simple fact. Yes it's cheap and reliable horsepower, but it's not rotary.

 

man, you can hit 400rwhp on a stock port TII block easy; if you already have it apart then just upgrade your basics (3rd gen corner seals, etc...). get an IHI T66 or a master power T70. use atleast a .96 T4 hotside. big exhaust, STAND ALONE EMS, alcohol injection, 17 to 20 psi, and the supporting mods, . bam.

 

I just must ask, WHY. A ford 8.8 inch is a stronger rear end, is available with disc brakes. The width is also damn near perfect

the ONLY point of having a 9" over a 8.8" is if you need to swap out gear ratios in a hurry, because the 9" has a removable pumpkin much like our stock rear ends

 

I dunno about the 400HP goal............
Your suspenssion it's gonna start protesting soon/ Or you Will...DIE!!!
The GSL-SE tranny took a **** on me...W/ 6 psi on a stock S4 turbo(So my advice is......400HP on a SE tranny?= )
The TII can handle that. and the rear DIff would be OK.......try starting W/ 200'sh
and upgrade your brakes ,suspenssion , and then shoot 4 the 400Hp.......
400HP motor+ stockFB= DEATH!
Trust me! I had to relearn to drive my car w/the turbo setup

 

as far as the suspension and brakes go they're setup and ready to go. BnG progressive rates to help with traction and stiffen up the whole thing. tokico 5ways(swaped in soon). The brakes i custom made. I took the se rotor/hub, cut the rotor off the hub, made a hat and backing plate, bought some custom rotors from wilwood, used 4 piston wilwood in the front and 2 piston in the rear. then all i had to do was fab up a bracket and vola 13in disk brakes. i got poly busings, strut tower bars. so the supsension is setup for it and will take it. i want to keep it rotary and only street ported. What stand alone do you sugest? i was thinking a wolf 3d system. currently i have a msd ignition setup on my n/a 88 13b. i don't want to lock the dizzy. i'm gona swap a 2nd gen CAS in with the coil packs. i'm also thinking a t60 or t61

 

Maybe I should have clarified that a bit better. In this area, Ford 9" rears are plentiful. It's common to find a very good conditioned unit for $50 - complete. The 8.8s are nice as well, but not as plentiful in this area, and not for that kind of $$$.

 

Yea,400 WHEEL HP is a healthy power goal,even for an FC.Thats nearly 500 crank HP!!!
My 300HP at the CRANK is a handful sometimes and Ive got more time/money into my suspension,chassis and brakes than my powerplant.If you shoot more for 375-400 HP at the engine,itll greatly reduce the amount of work youll need to do to the engine control/turbo systems,and the upgrades the car itself will require......
Trust me,if you havent driven/rode in a 2500lb car will 300hp or more,you have no frame of refference about how insane the power to weight ratio is......................

 

i had rode in a car with a small power to wieght ratio. remember this is a project car. I plan on spending several years, and lots on work on this. I love a high goal. besides how sweat would it be to see a 400 rwhp 1st gen that can be driven on a daily bases if needed. It's a goal and no matter how dumb it is to dump several grand into these cars because they will never retain their value, i'm still going to do it just to say i've done it.

cars with similar p:w ratios
toyota celica alltrac. 3200 lbs 450 whp (all wheel drive)
toyota supra 670 rwhp
nissan 240sx 325 rwhp.
eclipse 400hp

I've built all those cars, i did all the engine, drivetrain, suspension, brakes, and frame work. I don't do the body or interior work of making them "pretty".

But yeah so i set the goal there and i'm gona try to get as close as i can to it. What needs engine wise do i need so i have a strong motor. sugestions? thanks guys, realy apreciate the input and ideas.

 

In a 2500 lb car, with 400 HP you have a hp/lb ratio of 1hp/6.25lb.

My bike has 80 or something hp and is around 500 lbs. That makes for 1hp/6.25lb.

That is not insane. Now then taking my bike (I've seen this done) and swapping the engine for a 1000cc, adding a large turbo, going fuel injection, port and polish, all this adding up to around 180-200 hp and then adding a 50 shot....THAT is insane the power to weight ratio. 1hp/2lbs.


:EDIT:
Sorry, my bike only has 70 hp, but it only weighs 394 lbs with a full tank of gas.

ratio 1hp/5.62lbs

 

I don't really understand why you did all that brake work to the stock rear end because it will NEVER hold that much power. These rear ends are quite weak. I've heard of them breaking with only 250 hp at the crank. Do you really think its going to hold up to 400 rear wheel hp? If so, your crazy. Same goes for the -SE tranny. As stated, the 8.8 from a Mustang will work quite well, and you can get them with disk brakes. A TII tranny will work good too, but your obviously going to need a custom driveshaft if you do either mod.

 

what exactly brakes on the rear ends? the shafts? the gears? if someone knows maybe their's a way to make them stronger. jsut curiosity.

 

All depends on how you treat them.My 82GSL rearend held up to a torquey Chevy V-6 in my GLC for 10 years with no issues.Heres my R&P and axles after 3-4 years of 300 TII HP, daily driving.No twist,no abnormal wear.I only changed them out because I was concerned they might have problems after switching to stickier,wider rubber.Still no problems....