4 link bolt driving me crazey.
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Joined: Jul 2007
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From: tewksbury, ma
4 link bolt driving me crazey.
so i removed all of my 4 link to replace the bushings. only bolt i haven't been able to remove is the one on top of the axle (pass side). the metal sleeve is frozen to the bolt. i tried spaying it with different chemicals and letting it sit and hitting it with a hammer. i started to bend the bracket. i even tried heating the bolt up , now the bolt and sleeve thats frozen to it just spin in the bushing's. same thing happened with my rear sway bar i had to cut the bolt head off.
am i the only one this has happen?
my only option left is to cut the bolt on both sides of the bushing between the bracket. is it going to be hard to find a replacement bolt? i cant believe they didn't use anti seize on this. all the other bolts came right out.
sorry about ranting but i tried for 3 hours to get this bolt out.
am i the only one this has happen?
my only option left is to cut the bolt on both sides of the bushing between the bracket. is it going to be hard to find a replacement bolt? i cant believe they didn't use anti seize on this. all the other bolts came right out.
sorry about ranting but i tried for 3 hours to get this bolt out.
This just happened to my buddy James not long ago...
We went to take off his diff, and one of the bushing sleeves was completely fused to the bolt.
Tried everything, ended up just taking the bolt out on the body end of the link, luckily it came out easy and once the diff was out of the car we cut the problem bolt, as you plan to do...
We went to take off his diff, and one of the bushing sleeves was completely fused to the bolt.
Tried everything, ended up just taking the bolt out on the body end of the link, luckily it came out easy and once the diff was out of the car we cut the problem bolt, as you plan to do...
Yeah, probably have to cut it... I've tried many ways to get around it with fused bushings, but in the end I learned to just get the angle grinder out and do away with the rusted parts. Good luck...
Thread Starter
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 1,436
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From: tewksbury, ma
how hard do you guys think it will be to find a bolt to replace it. i should get grade 8 right?
o yeah one quick question, i had to go out and buy some bigger wrenches for the rear end two 21mm's.
sorry for my lack of knowing proper terms, but there's a bolt in the front end i think its on the tie rod. you know the two brackets the sway bar goes thou on the front end. the one's that you have to remove to replace the front sway bar. that big bolt with the pin thou it, is it 26 or 27 mm. i have a plastic slide caliper and it was between 26mm and 27mm. i went to sears and they didn't have single 26mm for sale. they didnt even have a set that had a 26mm in it. all there set's skipped 26 mm.
o yeah one quick question, i had to go out and buy some bigger wrenches for the rear end two 21mm's.
sorry for my lack of knowing proper terms, but there's a bolt in the front end i think its on the tie rod. you know the two brackets the sway bar goes thou on the front end. the one's that you have to remove to replace the front sway bar. that big bolt with the pin thou it, is it 26 or 27 mm. i have a plastic slide caliper and it was between 26mm and 27mm. i went to sears and they didn't have single 26mm for sale. they didnt even have a set that had a 26mm in it. all there set's skipped 26 mm.
http://www.mcmaster.com/
ya never know, MAZDA may have a few in stock left. I got some lower rear shock bolts and nuts from them.
lightly cover the bolt with anti=seize including the threads. car manuf. do not do this cause it takes more time and money, eats into profit margin. they just wanna sell the car and get it off the lot.
ya never know, MAZDA may have a few in stock left. I got some lower rear shock bolts and nuts from them.
lightly cover the bolt with anti=seize including the threads. car manuf. do not do this cause it takes more time and money, eats into profit margin. they just wanna sell the car and get it off the lot.
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