2nd Gen tranny?
07-24-08, 06:43 PM
#1
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2nd Gen tranny?
I have a friend who needs to know if a 2nd gen tranny will work on a 1st gen or not....he'd heard they do but I was skeptical but don't really know
07-24-08, 06:52 PM
#2
Double Ds for me to share
This post is going to follow the procedure of installing a S4 N/A transmission into your FB chassis.
Please follow docholidays instructions (Link) for removal of your stock transmission.
Once you have removed your transmission and placed on the ground remove the 8 12mm bolts holding the tailshaft housing to the gear box. Pictured below with green arrows.
Next remove the four 10mm bolts from the inspection plate from the side of the shifter housing. Inside of there you will find the metal block that the shifter ball sits in that connects to the shifter linkage. On the side of this you will find one 10mm set bolt that you will need to remove. Pictured below with a yellow ring and arrow. Once that is done then you can take large screw driver or dull chisel and tap up on the edge of the tailshaft housing to free the silicone seal made by the factory. Once the seal is broken you can lift the tailshaft housing off the body of the transmission, while lifting up reach inside and rotate the shifter linkage out from the gear selector forks. Now that the tailshaft housing is removed from the body you will need to remove a snap ring from above the speedo gear, now you can remove the speedo gear off of the tailshaft. Keep the speed gear as you will need to install this onto your FC transmission tailshaft. Pictured below with a blue ring and arrow.
Follow the above instructions for disassembling your S4 N/A transmission. When you get to removing the metal block from the shifter linkage you will encounter that there is no bolt but there is however a set pin that needs to be removed. This pin will only come out one way so make sure the rolled pin hole is rotated down towards the tailshaft housing. Use a punch to remove this pin.
Now that you have both transmissions apart you can start to reassemble your new hybrid FC/FB transmission. Start by installing your FB speedo gear (which is orange, FC is yellow) onto your tailshaft, then reinstall the snap ring above it. Clean the mating area of the FC gear box and the tailshaft housing from your FB. Once clean you can apply some new RTV silicone sealant to the area. This doesn't have to be a large bead just enough to create a small gasket between the two pieces. Now you can begin to install the tailshaft housing. While lowering your housing make sure to place the shifter linkage into the shiftrod forks on the box or you may have to lift the housing back up to do so. Pictured below with a red ring and arrow. Now replace the eight 12mm bolts back into the transmission and tighten down. With the transmission bolted together you can install the metal shifter block back onto the shifter linkage. Now with that done you can replace the 10mm set bolt through the block and linkage. Clean the inspection plate and mounting surface of the shifter housing and run a bead of silicone to seal the area. Replace the four 10mm bolts to secure the plate to the housing.
Time to reinstall your new transmission into you car. Just follow docholidays instructions above in reverse to reinstall it.
Please note on the swap you will also need to acquire a stock S4 clutch slave cylinder since you will need its longer length to fully engage your clutch.
Please follow docholidays instructions (Link) for removal of your stock transmission.
Once you have removed your transmission and placed on the ground remove the 8 12mm bolts holding the tailshaft housing to the gear box. Pictured below with green arrows.
Next remove the four 10mm bolts from the inspection plate from the side of the shifter housing. Inside of there you will find the metal block that the shifter ball sits in that connects to the shifter linkage. On the side of this you will find one 10mm set bolt that you will need to remove. Pictured below with a yellow ring and arrow. Once that is done then you can take large screw driver or dull chisel and tap up on the edge of the tailshaft housing to free the silicone seal made by the factory. Once the seal is broken you can lift the tailshaft housing off the body of the transmission, while lifting up reach inside and rotate the shifter linkage out from the gear selector forks. Now that the tailshaft housing is removed from the body you will need to remove a snap ring from above the speedo gear, now you can remove the speedo gear off of the tailshaft. Keep the speed gear as you will need to install this onto your FC transmission tailshaft. Pictured below with a blue ring and arrow.
Follow the above instructions for disassembling your S4 N/A transmission. When you get to removing the metal block from the shifter linkage you will encounter that there is no bolt but there is however a set pin that needs to be removed. This pin will only come out one way so make sure the rolled pin hole is rotated down towards the tailshaft housing. Use a punch to remove this pin.
Now that you have both transmissions apart you can start to reassemble your new hybrid FC/FB transmission. Start by installing your FB speedo gear (which is orange, FC is yellow) onto your tailshaft, then reinstall the snap ring above it. Clean the mating area of the FC gear box and the tailshaft housing from your FB. Once clean you can apply some new RTV silicone sealant to the area. This doesn't have to be a large bead just enough to create a small gasket between the two pieces. Now you can begin to install the tailshaft housing. While lowering your housing make sure to place the shifter linkage into the shiftrod forks on the box or you may have to lift the housing back up to do so. Pictured below with a red ring and arrow. Now replace the eight 12mm bolts back into the transmission and tighten down. With the transmission bolted together you can install the metal shifter block back onto the shifter linkage. Now with that done you can replace the 10mm set bolt through the block and linkage. Clean the inspection plate and mounting surface of the shifter housing and run a bead of silicone to seal the area. Replace the four 10mm bolts to secure the plate to the housing.
Time to reinstall your new transmission into you car. Just follow docholidays instructions above in reverse to reinstall it.
Please note on the swap you will also need to acquire a stock S4 clutch slave cylinder since you will need its longer length to fully engage your clutch.
07-24-08, 07:36 PM
#4
Also correction on usage of slave cylinder. You use your 1st gen one.
Search function is your friend since this topic has been covered extensively. :-)
https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...on+interchange
Search function is your friend since this topic has been covered extensively. :-)
https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...on+interchange
Last edited by Rx-7Doctor; 08-31-08 at 07:11 PM.
08-11-08, 12:00 PM
#8
Old [Sch|F]ool
Also correction on usage of slave cylinder. You use your 1st gen one.
Search function is your friend since this topic has been covered extensively. :-)
https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...on+interchange[/QUOTE]
08-11-08, 12:12 PM
#9
Peejay,
Glad you brought this up. It has been asked over and over about the S5 N/A transmission swap and each time it has been answered that you cannot because the S5 has larger bearings in the tailshaft and the Fb tailshaft housing won't fit over it. That is what I have gathered each time I researched it.
As far as the slave being used from the S4 or S5 I have done several swaps including the last one in my own car and used the Se slave cylinder and it worked perfectly.
As far as the top gear, the S4 N/A 87-88 models and the 89-92 N/A without LSD have the tallest overdrives.
On a 12A engine it is too much overdrive. On my Se I have no issues with it at all.
[/quote]
Glad you brought this up. It has been asked over and over about the S5 N/A transmission swap and each time it has been answered that you cannot because the S5 has larger bearings in the tailshaft and the Fb tailshaft housing won't fit over it. That is what I have gathered each time I researched it.
As far as the slave being used from the S4 or S5 I have done several swaps including the last one in my own car and used the Se slave cylinder and it worked perfectly.
As far as the top gear, the S4 N/A 87-88 models and the 89-92 N/A without LSD have the tallest overdrives.
On a 12A engine it is too much overdrive. On my Se I have no issues with it at all.
Either you're wrong, or the last trans I put in "the silver car" was not a S5. The top gear was stupidly tall and pretty much useless, I remember that. Everything was a standard tailhousing swapout except for having to remove the damper weight from the output shaft. (Which was no big deal, a nut and some circlips)
I don't know what happened, but I had to cut approximately 10mm from the slave pushrod in order for it all to work.
Search function is your friend since this topic has been covered extensively. :-)
https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...on+interchange
I don't know what happened, but I had to cut approximately 10mm from the slave pushrod in order for it all to work.
Search function is your friend since this topic has been covered extensively. :-)
https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...on+interchange
08-13-08, 05:12 AM
#10
Peejay,
So is this official about the S5 transmission and the only thing you have to do is remove the damper weight to swap out the housings.
I would like to have this verified so that I can update the thread that I have done on the transmission swaps.
So is this official about the S5 transmission and the only thing you have to do is remove the damper weight to swap out the housings.
I would like to have this verified so that I can update the thread that I have done on the transmission swaps.
08-29-08, 08:07 PM
#11
Old [Sch|F]ool
Well, what easy way would there be to tell a S5 from an S4?
There are no bearings in the tailhousing, so the "bigger bearing" thing doesn't make sense. The tailhousing is basically an empty cone and goes nowhere near the bearings. The only thing close to being a bearing is the end bushing, and all N/A use the same yoke so that's the same ID which is all that counts if you're swapping the tailhousing as an assembly.
I forgot the little breather on the front that needs removed if installing on a '83-85, but IIRC even a GSL-SE trans will have this problem.
There are no bearings in the tailhousing, so the "bigger bearing" thing doesn't make sense. The tailhousing is basically an empty cone and goes nowhere near the bearings. The only thing close to being a bearing is the end bushing, and all N/A use the same yoke so that's the same ID which is all that counts if you're swapping the tailhousing as an assembly.
I forgot the little breather on the front that needs removed if installing on a '83-85, but IIRC even a GSL-SE trans will have this problem.
