2nd gen 13b in 1st gen RX-7?
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2nd gen 13b in 1st gen RX-7?
I want to build a low buck autocross racer form a 1st generation RX-7 with a 89-91 13b motor. This will put approx 160hp into a 2350lbs car. What year 1st gen should I be looking at?(remember low-buck) Is this a possible engine swap and what mods will I have to do to get the motor in. I am assuming that I will be getting a 1st gen with a carburated 12a because of the lower cost.
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Low Buck???
What's low buck? Is it some racing term or something? Or do you mean economical/cheap?
If you get a GSL-SE, you can use the front cover off the stock engine to mount.
I've heard it's easy to put the 2nd gen cross member in so you can use your intermediate housing mounting holes. (All 1st gens are front mounted.) Not sure what the suspension does, might jack the car up a few inches though.
If you get a GSL-SE, you can use the front cover off the stock engine to mount.
I've heard it's easy to put the 2nd gen cross member in so you can use your intermediate housing mounting holes. (All 1st gens are front mounted.) Not sure what the suspension does, might jack the car up a few inches though.
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What class are you going to run in? Motor swap is illegal in stock and street prepared classes I believe. If you go any class higher, you gonna spend big bucks! Also, if you want to stay fuel injected, you have to change all the fuel lines.
#4
8krpm is not enough
to tell you the truth, if you want to do this, here's what you do...
Find a GSL-SE, take out as much weight as you can (ac, sound deadening material, spare tire, jack, ect..) then put in some tokico illuminas and a set of springs, (I'm running tokicos and like them, i've heard good thing about Eibach's as well), put a K&N drop in filter, high flow cat, and muffler on, you can also thing about semi-metallic / metallic race type brake pads. This should keep you in stock class, run race compound tires, and there you go. You'll prolly do just as well in times as if you beefed the hell out of the car, and you'll be running in a much less competative class (engine swap == mod, mod == lots of guys with years of exp. and money.) that you'll have a better chance of learning and doing well in. At worst you'll be in street prepared like me, at which point, round out the suspension with sway bars and you should be all good. Think about getting a smaller diameter steering wheel, it helped me out alot, I kept getting annoyed with the big 15" one rubbing my legs.
Just my .02,
--matt
flr-scca #242 CSP (N), going to ESP or whatever they move my car to next year.
Find a GSL-SE, take out as much weight as you can (ac, sound deadening material, spare tire, jack, ect..) then put in some tokico illuminas and a set of springs, (I'm running tokicos and like them, i've heard good thing about Eibach's as well), put a K&N drop in filter, high flow cat, and muffler on, you can also thing about semi-metallic / metallic race type brake pads. This should keep you in stock class, run race compound tires, and there you go. You'll prolly do just as well in times as if you beefed the hell out of the car, and you'll be running in a much less competative class (engine swap == mod, mod == lots of guys with years of exp. and money.) that you'll have a better chance of learning and doing well in. At worst you'll be in street prepared like me, at which point, round out the suspension with sway bars and you should be all good. Think about getting a smaller diameter steering wheel, it helped me out alot, I kept getting annoyed with the big 15" one rubbing my legs.
Just my .02,
--matt
flr-scca #242 CSP (N), going to ESP or whatever they move my car to next year.
#5
An engine swap is allowed in the Street mod class. There are specfic guide lines though, like it has to be a Mazda engine in a Mazda Car (no LS1 swaps here).
Around me SM is populated by big turboed DSMs though (playing with the turbo systemat all, i.e. boost control, drops you in SM)
Around me SM is populated by big turboed DSMs though (playing with the turbo systemat all, i.e. boost control, drops you in SM)
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Hmmm....I thought Street Mod was only for four or more passenger cars. In other words, no two seaters. At least thats what I think thats how they run here(San Francisco). Another thing is your not supposed to have lowering springs in stock class. Of course you could do anything you want as long as no one complains and they inspect your car!!! I guess if your not beating everyone, no one really cares.
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I'm going to pick up a copy of the SCCA Rule book at the next even; sounds like you may want to score a copy for yourself.
I personally want to make sure my car meets the requirements for my class, would also prefer my competitors would do the same.
I personally want to make sure my car meets the requirements for my class, would also prefer my competitors would do the same.
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#8
Originally posted by jrx13
Hmmm....I thought Street Mod was only for four or more passenger cars. In other words, no two seaters.
Hmmm....I thought Street Mod was only for four or more passenger cars. In other words, no two seaters.
It has however been proposed that the 2 seater/sports car clause be re-written to read that any front engine car is elligable, reguardless of seating capacity.
But it totally depends on your region. My talon runs GStock with a manual boost controller turned all the way down (stock psi)
#9
8krpm is not enough
I'd say straight Mod, like I said, we've got a guy w/ a Triumph TR7 w/ a 13BT and he runs in EModified (I believe E, but I know it's Modified). I think Modified comes before Prepared, so... but for getting started in autox, you don't need to worry too much about power, just make sure everything's tuned up, maybe throw on a decent set of shocks and springs, and tighten "the nut behind the wheel" and you'll see the bulk of your improvement that way.
it's all about seat time baby,
--matt
it's all about seat time baby,
--matt
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