2GCDFIS ?'s
05-19-06, 01:18 AM
#26
Looks nice. Are those Magnacore wires? One thing you can do is move the trailing wires over to the leading position on the dizzy cap (T-->L, T1-->L1, T2-->L2). Doesn't make much difference, but it gives the trailing end one less gap for the spark to jump (takes advantage of the carbon button in the center of the dizzy cap).
05-19-06, 01:44 AM
#27
Those are Racing Beat 8mm wires, I love the color. I will try that little trick, also I am seriously interested in the upgraded TT units. Tomorrow I am going to stick some 2nd gen plugs in the leading side. So far I am very happy with this mod, the last few days it has been rainy and cold. The 7 hasnt had its usual cold starting problems, I have known for awhile that my old coils were starting to wear out. But yeah I am very happy with this outcome.
05-19-06, 01:49 AM
#28
Wait.. Wouldnt moving my trailing wires to the leading side cause the trailing and leading ignition to fire at the same time? Maybe I am missing something.... Also, I have been wondering how to adjust the timing on the leading ignition, Since it no longer goes through the distributor? Maybe I am having a brain fart, but for some reason something isnt adding up...
Last edited by LokiRx7.1; 05-19-06 at 01:53 AM.
05-19-06, 02:04 AM
#29
Do the RB wires fit well in the 2nd gen coil? I want to get some nice wires when I return and I am trying to figure out what to get. I did put you on the list for the TT, so you have a spot reserved. Glad to here the 2GCDFIS is working well.
Moving the trailing to leading sounds strange at first, but it is okay. The ignitor on the trailing side is what produces the spark (signal to make the spark anyway), so the spark still occurs 15*or whatever later than the leading spark. The trailing fires the same as the leading on the cap (every 180* of engine rotation (90* dizzy rotor rotation)). You can study the cap and see why it works. Also many guys are running with it connected this way (check nearly any DLIDFIS, 2GCDFIS, etc. thread).
Leading timing is still adjusted the same way as before (rotating the dizzy). When you adjust the timing, you only change when the signal is picked up by the VR sensor/ignitor in relation to engine position. Nothing changes between the dizzy cap and rotor relation.
Moving the trailing to leading sounds strange at first, but it is okay. The ignitor on the trailing side is what produces the spark (signal to make the spark anyway), so the spark still occurs 15*or whatever later than the leading spark. The trailing fires the same as the leading on the cap (every 180* of engine rotation (90* dizzy rotor rotation)). You can study the cap and see why it works. Also many guys are running with it connected this way (check nearly any DLIDFIS, 2GCDFIS, etc. thread).
Leading timing is still adjusted the same way as before (rotating the dizzy). When you adjust the timing, you only change when the signal is picked up by the VR sensor/ignitor in relation to engine position. Nothing changes between the dizzy cap and rotor relation.
05-19-06, 03:06 AM
#30
Ah, I see. I was scratching my head on that one and that was the conclusion I was coming to. The RB wires have a VERY snug fit on the 2nd gen coil. I had to wrestle the boot on, but it works fine. They are a pain to get off though, but well worth the trouble.
Also, is it okay to use the OEM plugs with the 2nd gen coil? I want to wait awhile and buy new OEM plugs for the trailing and then get the second gen plugs for the leading. That way I have new plugs all around.
Also, is it okay to use the OEM plugs with the 2nd gen coil? I want to wait awhile and buy new OEM plugs for the trailing and then get the second gen plugs for the leading. That way I have new plugs all around.
05-19-06, 03:18 AM
#31
Yeah, the OEM plugs are fine. The nice thing about the 2nd gen plugs is that they are easier to get. Shucks/Checker/Kragen carry the 2nd gen plugs in stock. They were $4.99 each when I last bought them. I believe they have a platinum version of the plugs as well for like $9.99 each or so.
I will look into the RB wires. It would be nice to get some custom Magnacores or something made up so that we could have the proper boot for the 2nd gen coil. The 2nd gen wires will work, but they are very long. I had to wrestle my wires on the 2nd gen coil as well. I think my wires are NGK, but I am not sure.
I will look into the RB wires. It would be nice to get some custom Magnacores or something made up so that we could have the proper boot for the 2nd gen coil. The 2nd gen wires will work, but they are very long. I had to wrestle my wires on the 2nd gen coil as well. I think my wires are NGK, but I am not sure.
05-19-06, 03:31 AM
#32
Meh, I like the look of the RB wires. Besides if its just the boot thats bothering you, get the leading second gen wires, OEM, aftermarket, whatever. Hit the coil end of the boot with some WD-40 or similiar penetrating lube, wrestle the boot off the wire. Do the same to the 1st gen wire, then add a ton of lube again, and wrestle the 2nd gen boot on. I have done it when I somehow seperated the female connector inside the boot from the wire (on my DD) I had to take it apart (resorted to cutting the boot) crimped it back together and got a boot from a spare set of wires.
I know, sounds like a pain, and it is. But in reality, Ill just live with it. It isnt all that bad, besides the RB wires have a lip on the end of the boot, I grab it and pull up. The boot actually rolls up around the lip and off the coil. And to get it on, I just have to tug the boot down a little to ensure a snug fit and Voila!
Much cheaper than getting any sort of custom wires
I know, sounds like a pain, and it is. But in reality, Ill just live with it. It isnt all that bad, besides the RB wires have a lip on the end of the boot, I grab it and pull up. The boot actually rolls up around the lip and off the coil. And to get it on, I just have to tug the boot down a little to ensure a snug fit and Voila!
Much cheaper than getting any sort of custom wires
