jones75240

iTrader: (1)

Fellas, did a search and nothing addressed my questions specifically.

1) This happens in 1st, 2nd and 3rd gear in the same manner: i begin to accelerate normally up to around 3.5-4k rpm and then i punch it (WOT), i get a very slight "hiccup" or pause and then it kicks in normally and pulls well up to redline. This happens in 1st through 3rd but only when im already in that gear and decide to punch it after steadily getting up to 3.5-4k rpm. Hope im making sense. Now, if i just haul off and go WOT from a stop all the way up to 4th it doesnt have the pause. Is only when im accelerating normally in whatever gear and then when im at 3.5-4k then decide to punch it does the hiccup occurr. Whats up? How do i remedy it?

2) My clutch fluid looked a bit dark (just after bought the car) and i changed out the fluid a while ago (i have a nice bleeder pump vacuum kit) and the fluid kept coming out cloudy/black in color. Even after flushing out a couple quarts! I thought in begining that maybe i just needed to flush it more and i ran through another bottle and got the same result. Is my MC bad....Slave bad? Thoughts?

Appreciate it

Kentetsu

#1 is probably caused by a leaking or clogged accelerator pump. Just search that term for more info, or you can go ahead and rebuild the carb if you want to be thorough (AP parts are included in rebuild kits).

#2 I wouldn't worry about unless you are having issues with the clutch hydraulics.



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4portgsl

1: Carburetors simply dont respond as fast as fuel injection does, especially those carbs with vacuum secondaries like the stock nikki has. What your probably experiencing is the delay for the secondaries to open up, and then a slight bog before the fuel begins to flow from the venturis to meet the demand. Just make sure your air filter and fuel filter are clean, id replace both to be sure. Its not likely a fuel pressure issue, but you can check that if you want, and that your accellerator pump squirts as it should. To check this, unclip the air cleaner cover, get a light so you can see down inside the carb. Have someone pump the gas pedal to the floor once, fuel should squirt from both primary venturis. Be sure not to pump the pedal too many times as you dont want to flood the engine out.

2: My clutch did the exact same thing, its a combination of varnish build up and possibly a deteriorating flexible line. My slave cylinder failed a couple months after i flushed my fluid at least twice like you have. My recommendation: just go ahead and replace the whole system. I bought a master cylinder, slave cylinder, and flexible line from black dragon automotive (then victoria british) for less that 80 bucks. Just use brake clean and spray out the metal line to clean it before installing the new stuff. If your fluid keeps turning black like that, chances are either one of the cylinders is on its last leg. Good luck! hope i could help.

blackdeath647

iTrader: (2)

+1 for what 4portgsl said there's just simply too much gas all of the sudden so the engine must accomodate hence the little hiccup, quite normal. the reason it doesn't do it if you're already stomping it is because your engine as already acomodated to the extra gas going in. as far as your clutch hydraulics go if everything's engaging like it should, i wouldn't worry about it.

jones75240

iTrader: (1)

Thanks everyone for the responses. They all make sense and i will be goin in and checking the AP. Carb could prob use a rebuild anyways. Just an FYI i have brand new K/N air filter installed 2 weeks ago and the fuel filter was changed 2 months ago.

The clutch hydraulics seem to be functioning fine, i just wasnt sure why the fluid was still dark after a fresh flush. Should anything change with that i will replace everything as 4port suggested. Its pretty cheap to replace it all, so...

StumpDrummer

hmmm sounds like too big of a carb to me
what size carb do you have?
What type mechanicle or vacuum secondaries?
what size engine ported or not?
what type exhaust system?

4portgsl

After the change my clutch pedal felt smoother and more substantial, but nothing will change and their are no adjustments to make. Two bolts hold the master cylinder to the firewall, two bolts hold the slave cylinder to the trans. Just be sure you dont damage the metal line when switching it over, dont be afraid to use lots of penetrating oil the night before on all the parts so that everything comes apart as it should. A friend helped me with mine and it only took part of an afternoon and there were no problems.