1st Gens for the rich!
10-03-01, 11:29 PM
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1st Gens for the rich!
I'm just sitting here flipping though the RB web site putting together my dream 7. It's what I do when I don't have any "extra" cash laying around that I can spend on my car....I mean my baby. And now that the whether is getting colder I'm sure there are many people like myself that are getting their babies ready for the long winter nap. Also like myself you will be forced to daydream about driving their 7s rather than driving them. So here is the question I would like you to ponder the next time you want to push you car to it’s limits but can’t. Even if your car is not in storage for the winter you can ponder this at work or before going to bed.
“If money and time where not an obstacle, or say you were given 20K to spend on you car what would the end results be?”
I gotta tell everyone, I love my car and I have countless things that I would like upgrade, replace or modify but I’m not sure I know what my dream gen 1 would have on or in it. Any one know what their dream 7 is?
Jim
“If money and time where not an obstacle, or say you were given 20K to spend on you car what would the end results be?”
I gotta tell everyone, I love my car and I have countless things that I would like upgrade, replace or modify but I’m not sure I know what my dream gen 1 would have on or in it. Any one know what their dream 7 is?
Jim
10-04-01, 12:15 AM
#2
Super Newbie
Mine would have a bridgeported 13B REW with a T78 or similar hanging on the side, Haltech, coilovers, the same rims I run now, just bigger, airdam, etc. And it would look very much like this car:
*drool*
*drool*
10-04-01, 12:26 AM
#3
I didn't think bridge porting a turbo engine was a good idea. Oh wait, it's a dream car 
Hmm, my dream 7 would be the 3rd gen with a Pettit Banzai package. In my dream I wouldn't necesarily need to lord/sweat over all the details because, while fun, is less fun than simply driving without a care.
Hmm, my dream 7 would be the 3rd gen with a Pettit Banzai package. In my dream I wouldn't necesarily need to lord/sweat over all the details because, while fun, is less fun than simply driving without a care.
10-04-01, 02:25 AM
#4
Super Newbie
Originally posted by Jeff20B
I didn't think bridge porting a turbo engine was a good idea. Oh wait, it's a dream car
I didn't think bridge porting a turbo engine was a good idea. Oh wait, it's a dream car
10-04-01, 04:09 AM
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This is what I came up with...
Damnit!
10-04-01, 10:36 AM
#7
20 grand to spend on just my first gen? Hmmm
I'm talking new chassis and paint job, and the remaining cash will go to porting my spare motor and getting the race apex seals. if anything left the fiberglass hood and a Big brake kit.
Don't most work myself I'll save cash and put it towards some huge rims!!
www.portugesethug.homestead.com/jim.html
I'm talking new chassis and paint job, and the remaining cash will go to porting my spare motor and getting the race apex seals. if anything left the fiberglass hood and a Big brake kit.
Don't most work myself I'll save cash and put it towards some huge rims!!
www.portugesethug.homestead.com/jim.html
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10-04-01, 10:57 AM
#8
Old [Sch|F]ool
To be honest I don't know what I'd do!
I'd put in a 6-point rollbar, Kirkey seats, mild half-bridge FC turbo engine (make ~350hp on low boost and a wiiiiiide torque curve), stronger trans, narrowed Ford Thunderbird independent rearend. Oh yeah and another SA shell.
That'd be the road course car.
The DRAG car, on the other hand, would be a half-bridged 20B turbo running high boost, race fuel, and a ton of nitrous on the side. Since cars that are quicker than 7.50 require a full race cage that typically costs $30-50k to fabricate, that's out of the question, so thsi car will still run the stock 185/70 tires and smoke them all the way through the quarter while still running 10's.
Or maybe I'd just fix the rust on the SA so I can keep it longer and get a TII to use as a road course car, after fitting a 'bar, Kirkeys, and re-skinning the roof so regain the 2 or so inches of headroom lost to the @&#*ing power moonroof mechanism. (IE cut it all out and replace it with simple sheetmetal cut from a base model) But I'd still have a hard time justifying spending $5-7k for a car not including any mods to it, even if I was given $20k to blow. Once a cheapass always a cheapass...
I'd put in a 6-point rollbar, Kirkey seats, mild half-bridge FC turbo engine (make ~350hp on low boost and a wiiiiiide torque curve), stronger trans, narrowed Ford Thunderbird independent rearend. Oh yeah and another SA shell.
That'd be the road course car.
The DRAG car, on the other hand, would be a half-bridged 20B turbo running high boost, race fuel, and a ton of nitrous on the side. Since cars that are quicker than 7.50 require a full race cage that typically costs $30-50k to fabricate, that's out of the question, so thsi car will still run the stock 185/70 tires and smoke them all the way through the quarter while still running 10's.
Or maybe I'd just fix the rust on the SA so I can keep it longer and get a TII to use as a road course car, after fitting a 'bar, Kirkeys, and re-skinning the roof so regain the 2 or so inches of headroom lost to the @&#*ing power moonroof mechanism. (IE cut it all out and replace it with simple sheetmetal cut from a base model) But I'd still have a hard time justifying spending $5-7k for a car not including any mods to it, even if I was given $20k to blow. Once a cheapass always a cheapass...
10-04-01, 02:57 PM
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Going with the idea of a dream car and money is no object:
For starters, the 12A while a nice little motor just isn't cutting it with 101 ponies under the hood. Time for something a bit more powerful. Why not drop in a new 13B Renesis. Since were talking dreams, we might as well throw in lower compression rotors as I am sure they will make there way into the aftermarket with time. This will then allow for a nice sized turbo. Since I am no mechanic myself, I won't even try to go into the specifics on compressor and trim sizes, etc. Modify the intake to get the coldest charge possible, and free up the exhaust so as to keep things flowing.
Nest up I feel that the suspension should be dealt with. Again I am no expert in these things as I have not started looking into suspension upgrades for my '85 GS yet, but I would like to get the car back above 1.1Gs on the skid pad with the engine mods.
Last thing I would address are some body styling mods that I have been planning for some time. This I do have the specifics for. A Mariah body kit that would incorperate the flared rear fenders, and only slightly flared front fenders. I would then like to stick the largest tires under the new tire wells for maximum traction. A TII style hood, Mariah hatch kit, and the tall aero wing would finish up body mods up top. A Mariah front airdam/spoiler and skirts all the way around would take care of the ground effects.
The interior would get redone with a momo steering wheel and Spearco seats. A decent set of speakers and amp to pump out tunes on a top quality MP3 player.
Actually, if I ever get the funding, that is kinda what I would like to do to my FB.
Chris
For starters, the 12A while a nice little motor just isn't cutting it with 101 ponies under the hood. Time for something a bit more powerful. Why not drop in a new 13B Renesis. Since were talking dreams, we might as well throw in lower compression rotors as I am sure they will make there way into the aftermarket with time. This will then allow for a nice sized turbo. Since I am no mechanic myself, I won't even try to go into the specifics on compressor and trim sizes, etc. Modify the intake to get the coldest charge possible, and free up the exhaust so as to keep things flowing.
Nest up I feel that the suspension should be dealt with. Again I am no expert in these things as I have not started looking into suspension upgrades for my '85 GS yet, but I would like to get the car back above 1.1Gs on the skid pad with the engine mods.
Last thing I would address are some body styling mods that I have been planning for some time. This I do have the specifics for. A Mariah body kit that would incorperate the flared rear fenders, and only slightly flared front fenders. I would then like to stick the largest tires under the new tire wells for maximum traction. A TII style hood, Mariah hatch kit, and the tall aero wing would finish up body mods up top. A Mariah front airdam/spoiler and skirts all the way around would take care of the ground effects.
The interior would get redone with a momo steering wheel and Spearco seats. A decent set of speakers and amp to pump out tunes on a top quality MP3 player.
Actually, if I ever get the funding, that is kinda what I would like to do to my FB.
Chris
10-04-01, 05:07 PM
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Also, completey restore/replace with new style steering. The First Gens have some of the most troublesome steering setups that deteriorate bad. I would like to see something similar to a miata where the power assist steering is faster than the standard while still keeping its road feeling.
10-04-01, 05:39 PM
#11
Old [Sch|F]ool
Oh yeah... an idea I'd kicked around loosely a while ago.
I'm pretty tall so I have to lean back a lot, which makes the steering wheel too far away and the pedals too close.
I also would rather have rear weight bias.
SOOOOO.... let's yank the drivetrain, move the firewall forward (a lot), change the seating position a little for steering wheel/nad interface tolerance adjustment (), and with the driver sitting that much further forward, stuff the engine in the back, mated to a VW transaxle (they make rotary-to-VW adapters). I'd prefer mid engine but if it has to be rear engine, so be it. Depends on how far forward the driver can be located. Fuel tank relocates to the front where the engine used to be (must use a fuel cell), and (the really cool part) a large inverse air scoop like Ford GT40s had would duct the hot radiator/oil cooler air out of the nose. The flip-forward hood lends itself very well to that sort of thing.
Basically the car would be a rotary-powered, poor man's Pantera/GT40. Albeit a slow one 'cos I haven't addressed the engine yet. Well, let's grab a junk '89-91 N/A engine, cut and fill and generally dick around with the 6-ports, bridge port it (half bridge of course), Holley carb, have some fun! And keep a steady supply of VW transaxles handy...
I'm pretty tall so I have to lean back a lot, which makes the steering wheel too far away and the pedals too close.
I also would rather have rear weight bias.
SOOOOO.... let's yank the drivetrain, move the firewall forward (a lot), change the seating position a little for steering wheel/nad interface tolerance adjustment (
), and with the driver sitting that much further forward, stuff the engine in the back, mated to a VW transaxle (they make rotary-to-VW adapters). I'd prefer mid engine but if it has to be rear engine, so be it. Depends on how far forward the driver can be located. Fuel tank relocates to the front where the engine used to be (must use a fuel cell), and (the really cool part) a large inverse air scoop like Ford GT40s had would duct the hot radiator/oil cooler air out of the nose. The flip-forward hood lends itself very well to that sort of thing.Basically the car would be a rotary-powered, poor man's Pantera/GT40. Albeit a slow one 'cos I haven't addressed the engine yet. Well, let's grab a junk '89-91 N/A engine, cut and fill and generally dick around with the 6-ports, bridge port it (half bridge of course), Holley carb, have some fun! And keep a steady supply of VW transaxles handy...
10-04-01, 06:39 PM
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a tube chassis frame with a the isma carbon fiber racing package with either a n/a 20b pp with a huge shot of nos or a 13b pp with a t51r. i would get some 12lb panasport ultralites and run 245's up front and some 335 in the rear all on 18's then some crazy interior with racing seats and a 8 point cage. dream weight would be 1800lbs dry
then some crazy interior with racing seats and a 8 point cage. dream weight would be 1800lbs dry
10-04-01, 07:41 PM
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Ideer
The 20B... It's based offa 13B, right? Same rotor size, same housings, eccentricity, all that mess. It's just 3 rotor, right?
The Renisis is 13B too.
Get spare 13B Renisis parts. Namely two intermediate housings, three rotor housings, and front and rear covers.
Now, buy a 20B eccentric shaft.
Assemble with your choice of low compression or high compression rotors. Add turbo accordingly.
Welding up a header and intake manifold shouldn't cost much.
Whatcha think?
The Renisis is 13B too.
Get spare 13B Renisis parts. Namely two intermediate housings, three rotor housings, and front and rear covers.
Now, buy a 20B eccentric shaft.
Assemble with your choice of low compression or high compression rotors. Add turbo accordingly.
Welding up a header and intake manifold shouldn't cost much.
Whatcha think?
10-05-01, 05:10 AM
#15
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Why does everyone keep saying the Renisis is a 13B? Do you know that it has the same eccentricity and generating radius?
I know that it is a 1.3L engine like the 13B, but as far as I know Mazda has not released the exact specs to the public, so it could just as easily be a '13C' engine.
Go here and scroll down to the 'What do the 10A, 12A, 13B, and 20B Mazda engine designations mean?' section.
Okay, now that I've got that out of my system, It wouldn't be that hard to spend $20k on my -SE. A new engine (maybe a Renisis (if you can SC it), an SC, suspention, rack and penut steering, cutom dash, custom interior, custom headlights, custom paint...
I know that it is a 1.3L engine like the 13B, but as far as I know Mazda has not released the exact specs to the public, so it could just as easily be a '13C' engine.
Go here and scroll down to the 'What do the 10A, 12A, 13B, and 20B Mazda engine designations mean?' section.
Okay, now that I've got that out of my system, It wouldn't be that hard to spend $20k on my -SE. A new engine (maybe a Renisis (if you can SC it), an SC, suspention, rack and penut steering
, cutom dash, custom interior, custom headlights, custom paint...
10-05-01, 07:15 PM
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Go back to 84 and get a new 85 base model and take the 12a and garbage out. Fast foward to the 90's and get a 26b then fast farward to now and get some badass HUGE turbo to put on her. Get one of those clutchless transmissions that can take all the torque and rpm you can throw at it. Hire someone to fit a FD front and rear suspention in it. Get one of those IMSA GTU kits from the 80's with the wheels to match. And to top it off a Haltech E6K with Matt Hitman in the pass seat.
.
10-06-01, 11:49 PM
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Originally posted by setzep
Go back to 84 and get a new 85 base model and take the 12a and garbage out. Fast foward to the 90's and get a 26b then fast farward to now and get some badass HUGE turbo to put on her. Get one of those clutchless transmissions that can take all the torque and rpm you can throw at it. Hire someone to fit a FD front and rear suspention in it. Get one of those IMSA GTU kits from the 80's with the wheels to match. And to top it off a Haltech E6K with Matt Hitman in the pass seat.
Go back to 84 and get a new 85 base model and take the 12a and garbage out. Fast foward to the 90's and get a 26b then fast farward to now and get some badass HUGE turbo to put on her. Get one of those clutchless transmissions that can take all the torque and rpm you can throw at it. Hire someone to fit a FD front and rear suspention in it. Get one of those IMSA GTU kits from the 80's with the wheels to match. And to top it off a Haltech E6K with Matt Hitman in the pass seat
.
10-07-01, 01:10 AM
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Re: Ideer
Originally posted by Pele
The 20B... It's based offa 13B, right? Same rotor size, same housings, eccentricity, all that mess. It's just 3 rotor, right?
The Renisis is 13B too.
Get spare 13B Renisis parts. Namely two intermediate housings, three rotor housings, and front and rear covers.
Now, buy a 20B eccentric shaft.
Assemble with your choice of low compression or high compression rotors. Add turbo accordingly.
Welding up a header and intake manifold shouldn't cost much.
Whatcha think?
The 20B... It's based offa 13B, right? Same rotor size, same housings, eccentricity, all that mess. It's just 3 rotor, right?
The Renisis is 13B too.
Get spare 13B Renisis parts. Namely two intermediate housings, three rotor housings, and front and rear covers.
Now, buy a 20B eccentric shaft.
Assemble with your choice of low compression or high compression rotors. Add turbo accordingly.
Welding up a header and intake manifold shouldn't cost much.
Whatcha think?
The 20B centre plate with the bearing in it is about 50% wider than a normal 13B centre plate.
Once again:
Quad
Rotor
10-07-01, 02:44 AM
#20
8krpm is not enough
well let's see...
cut the firewall, fab a new front cross member, move radiator forward as far as it can go, new tailhousing on tranny to locate shifter properly, new driveshaft, big *** torsen IRS rear end, then up front..
4 rotor, p-port big fuel system.
mmmm.
toasty.
cut the firewall, fab a new front cross member, move radiator forward as far as it can go, new tailhousing on tranny to locate shifter properly, new driveshaft, big *** torsen IRS rear end, then up front..
4 rotor, p-port big fuel system.
mmmm.
toasty.
10-07-01, 01:18 PM
#21
Old [Sch|F]ool
And now for something completely different...
Four words..
Twin Turbo Ford Smallblock.
Heck give me 1/4 of the operating budget and I can get it done and run 9's all day long.... At that price most of the work will be junkyard scrounging and custom fabrication, but that's a lot more fun than pulling parts out of boxes and bolting them on. There is a growing number of people with zero-budget blowthru-carb Fox-body (Mustang/Fairmont/T-bird/etc) cars with junkyard turbos and engines running 10's, and this would have 25% less weight to hurl down the quarter...
- PJ (The Heretic)
Twin Turbo Ford Smallblock.
Heck give me 1/4 of the operating budget and I can get it done and run 9's all day long....
At that price most of the work will be junkyard scrounging and custom fabrication, but that's a lot more fun than pulling parts out of boxes and bolting them on. There is a growing number of people with zero-budget blowthru-carb Fox-body (Mustang/Fairmont/T-bird/etc) cars with junkyard turbos and engines running 10's, and this would have 25% less weight to hurl down the quarter...- PJ (The Heretic)
10-07-01, 05:42 PM
#22
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Originally posted by Pele
The flux capacitor has not been invented yet. If it had been, I dont think it'd be cheaper than 20k.
The flux capacitor has not been invented yet. If it had been, I dont think it'd be cheaper than 20k.
10-07-01, 06:58 PM
#23
Old [Sch|F]ool
Not only that, but I think we're not likely to find any plutonium kicking around to power it either. 'Specially not now! And we'd have to go to the future to get a Mr. Fusion.
Hm... 1.21 gigawatts, first time travel trip ended at 1:21AM... interesting...
Hm... 1.21 gigawatts, first time travel trip ended at 1:21AM... interesting...
10-07-01, 09:20 PM
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Originally posted by peejay
Not only that, but I think we're not likely to find any plutonium kicking around to power it either. 'Specially not now! And we'd have to go to the future to get a Mr. Fusion.
Hm... 1.21 gigawatts, first time travel trip ended at 1:21AM... interesting...
Not only that, but I think we're not likely to find any plutonium kicking around to power it either. 'Specially not now! And we'd have to go to the future to get a Mr. Fusion.
Hm... 1.21 gigawatts, first time travel trip ended at 1:21AM... interesting...
With this third arm, I'll be able to hold the transmission up and tighten the bell housing bolts without that pesky jack in the way. :p
Iriginallyposted by AJC13B
Won't work.
The 20B centre plate with the bearing in it is about 50% wider than a normal 13B centre plate.
Once again:
Quad
Rotor
Won't work.
The 20B centre plate with the bearing in it is about 50% wider than a normal 13B centre plate.
Once again:
Quad
Rotor
Custom center plactes shouldn't be to hard.. and probably economical too. MMMM aluminum center plactes.
Originally posted by snmc
Why does everyone keep saying the Renisis is a 13B? Do you know that it has the same eccentricity and generating radius?
I know that it is a 1.3L engine like the 13B, but as far as I know Mazda has not released the exact specs to the public, so it could just as easily be a '13C' engine.
Go here and scroll down to the 'What do the 10A, 12A, 13B, and 20B Mazda engine designations mean?' section.
Why does everyone keep saying the Renisis is a 13B? Do you know that it has the same eccentricity and generating radius?
I know that it is a 1.3L engine like the 13B, but as far as I know Mazda has not released the exact specs to the public, so it could just as easily be a '13C' engine.
Go here and scroll down to the 'What do the 10A, 12A, 13B, and 20B Mazda engine designations mean?' section.
Last edited by Pele; 10-07-01 at 09:29 PM.
10-08-01, 02:27 AM
#25
EliteHardcoreCannuckSquad
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The RENISIS is supposed to be a completely new engine from the ground up. I know it has different Rotors and housings, not sure about the shaft, but there's still noway to know the internal dimentions.
Regardless a 3 Rotor Renisis is a great idea. Just think, an NA 2 litre engine with over 350 hp!