1st gen turbo hood question??????
12-19-09, 10:12 PM
#6
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well theres two routs to go. depending if you have a steel or aluminum T2 hood. about how much does your hood weigh?
If its a steel hood, just cut off the section for the hood scoop 1 about an inch of lip all around and try and fit it best you can and weld it up. If you have an aluminum hood IDK what you could do besides use both first gen and T2 scoop to make a FG mold and try and make your own FG hood. Sounds like alot of work to do that. Eather way alot of work if its just cosmedic. I'd just go for the scoop above and FG it in.
If its a steel hood, just cut off the section for the hood scoop 1 about an inch of lip all around and try and fit it best you can and weld it up. If you have an aluminum hood IDK what you could do besides use both first gen and T2 scoop to make a FG mold and try and make your own FG hood. Sounds like alot of work to do that. Eather way alot of work if its just cosmedic. I'd just go for the scoop above and FG it in.
12-19-09, 10:27 PM
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well theres two routs to go. depending if you have a steel or aluminum T2 hood. about how much does your hood weigh?
If its a steel hood, just cut off the section for the hood scoop 1 about an inch of lip all around and try and fit it best you can and weld it up. If you have an aluminum hood IDK what you could do besides use both first gen and T2 scoop to make a FG mold and try and make your own FG hood. Sounds like alot of work to do that. Eather way alot of work if its just cosmedic. I'd just go for the scoop above and FG it in.
If its a steel hood, just cut off the section for the hood scoop 1 about an inch of lip all around and try and fit it best you can and weld it up. If you have an aluminum hood IDK what you could do besides use both first gen and T2 scoop to make a FG mold and try and make your own FG hood. Sounds like alot of work to do that. Eather way alot of work if its just cosmedic. I'd just go for the scoop above and FG it in.
and i thought all tII hoods were aluminum but i guess i am wrong
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12-19-09, 11:01 PM
#8
well theres two routs to go. depending if you have a steel or aluminum T2 hood. about how much does your hood weigh?
If its a steel hood, just cut off the section for the hood scoop 1 about an inch of lip all around and try and fit it best you can and weld it up. If you have an aluminum hood IDK what you could do besides use both first gen and T2 scoop to make a FG mold and try and make your own FG hood. Sounds like alot of work to do that. Eather way alot of work if its just cosmedic. I'd just go for the scoop above and FG it in.
If its a steel hood, just cut off the section for the hood scoop 1 about an inch of lip all around and try and fit it best you can and weld it up. If you have an aluminum hood IDK what you could do besides use both first gen and T2 scoop to make a FG mold and try and make your own FG hood. Sounds like alot of work to do that. Eather way alot of work if its just cosmedic. I'd just go for the scoop above and FG it in.
12-20-09, 12:24 AM
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You can weld aluminum, but IDK if you can weld aluminum to steel without alot of expensive tig equipment, and gasses. I've read they have steel hoods also. I think mine may be steel. it doesn't feel much differant from any other hoods I've had, but I haven't checked. I think you could easyly just mod a first gen hood to have a scoop, and possably accept the T2 scoop trim. if you were a good enough fabricator. just take a beat up hood to cut up for practice and to see how it looks instead of possably messing up a nice hood. that could be recycled to fix what people have done in bad taist, and accedents.
I like T2 scoops on first gens so I wouldn't call that bad taist.
I like T2 scoops on first gens so I wouldn't call that bad taist.
12-20-09, 09:22 AM
#10
You can weld aluminum, but IDK if you can weld aluminum to steel without alot of expensive tig equipment, and gasses. I've read they have steel hoods also. I think mine may be steel. it doesn't feel much differant from any other hoods I've had, but I haven't checked. I think you could easyly just mod a first gen hood to have a scoop, and possably accept the T2 scoop trim. if you were a good enough fabricator. just take a beat up hood to cut up for practice and to see how it looks instead of possably messing up a nice hood. that could be recycled to fix what people have done in bad taist, and accedents.
I like T2 scoops on first gens so I wouldn't call that bad taist.
I like T2 scoops on first gens so I wouldn't call that bad taist.
12-20-09, 09:33 AM
#11
I picked up a 1st gen hood (steel) and it had the TII scoop mounted to it (aluminum).
The guy riveted them together and then bondo'ed it clean, but after time the air caused the two to seperate and crack at the seam. I removed all the bondo and tried welding the two together only to find out after about 5 inches of trying to weld, the hood was aluminum and the scoop was steel.
I *think* the two CAN be welded together by a competent welder because my welding actually held and I am a STRAIGHT UP beginner at welding.
The guy riveted them together and then bondo'ed it clean, but after time the air caused the two to seperate and crack at the seam. I removed all the bondo and tried welding the two together only to find out after about 5 inches of trying to weld, the hood was aluminum and the scoop was steel.
I *think* the two CAN be welded together by a competent welder because my welding actually held and I am a STRAIGHT UP beginner at welding.
12-20-09, 12:15 PM
#14
I picked up a 1st gen hood (steel) and it had the TII scoop mounted to it (aluminum).
The guy riveted them together and then bondo'ed it clean, but after time the air caused the two to seperate and crack at the seam. I removed all the bondo and tried welding the two together only to find out after about 5 inches of trying to weld, the hood was aluminum and the scoop was steel.
I *think* the two CAN be welded together by a competent welder because my welding actually held and I am a STRAIGHT UP beginner at welding.
The guy riveted them together and then bondo'ed it clean, but after time the air caused the two to seperate and crack at the seam. I removed all the bondo and tried welding the two together only to find out after about 5 inches of trying to weld, the hood was aluminum and the scoop was steel.
I *think* the two CAN be welded together by a competent welder because my welding actually held and I am a STRAIGHT UP beginner at welding.
Thanks
12-20-09, 05:30 PM
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shure you could get the two to stick together for a while, but its probably not gonna last. basically you could probably just rip it up by hand (witch may not be safe with high speed driving). same with the bondo job. you could just fiberglass it on and rivit it like was done before. but bondo won't hold up that long. when you weld somthing you are supose to join the two metals together. by process of heat. they are then supose to be one peice of metal. the bead is just the extra basically. how you should think about it. without penitration a bead is just a stress point on the joint. I'm not trying to contradict or bash you. If it works for you and your happy with that aproach then go for it. I'm shure you can weld steel to aluminum, but you have to have proper equipment. I think tig would be the only possably way to fuse aluminum to steel permenently
12-20-09, 05:34 PM
#17
ok, you cannot weld steel to aluminum at all, so that is out of the question. your best bet is to use some 3m panel bond to secure them together.
you can build it up around the edge's and sand it down with the same stuff, but once dry its alot harder than bondo
you can build it up around the edge's and sand it down with the same stuff, but once dry its alot harder than bondo
12-20-09, 07:58 PM
#18
+1 there is no conventional way to weld steel to aluminum. The different melting temps makes it impossible. Welding these two materials together is a bit like the holy grail of turning lead into gold. Everybody wants to do it, but nobody knows how.
There are esoteric ways to do it, such as solid state bonds caused by explosive joining -- but you won't be doing that in your garage!
As for the cracking -- it's unavoidable. Whenever materials are joined that have different coefficients of thermal expansion, one will grow more than the other with temperature changes, and a crack will occur. Aluminum, steel, fiberglass -- they're all different, and any hard joint between two of them will crack -- it's just a question of when. The longer the joint, the worse. Your best bet is to do something like the Capri scoop and bolt it on or to fab something out of steel so it grows at the same rate as the hood itself.
There are esoteric ways to do it, such as solid state bonds caused by explosive joining -- but you won't be doing that in your garage!
As for the cracking -- it's unavoidable. Whenever materials are joined that have different coefficients of thermal expansion, one will grow more than the other with temperature changes, and a crack will occur. Aluminum, steel, fiberglass -- they're all different, and any hard joint between two of them will crack -- it's just a question of when. The longer the joint, the worse. Your best bet is to do something like the Capri scoop and bolt it on or to fab something out of steel so it grows at the same rate as the hood itself.
12-22-09, 03:58 AM
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^Lol. Hey good to see you hit 190whp! I had the Black Rx7 in Northgate, sold you some stuff, and then I think you said you were at 160ish? Just wanted to say congrats on the NA 190!
So Just a general question for everyone but is 3m panel bond the best for bonding scoops and whatnot to dissimiliar materials? I would think so; sounds like its specifically made for it. Perhaps theres other favorites out there? Im just wondering if this is the stuff used that when properly faired/sanded then painted makes bonds look like 1 piece...? Tryied to use Bondo is such a manner was for me a disaster/mistake
.
So Just a general question for everyone but is 3m panel bond the best for bonding scoops and whatnot to dissimiliar materials? I would think so; sounds like its specifically made for it. Perhaps theres other favorites out there? Im just wondering if this is the stuff used that when properly faired/sanded then painted makes bonds look like 1 piece...? Tryied to use Bondo is such a manner was for me a disaster/mistake
.
12-22-09, 09:10 AM
#22
^Lol. Hey good to see you hit 190whp! I had the Black Rx7 in Northgate, sold you some stuff, and then I think you said you were at 160ish? Just wanted to say congrats on the NA 190!
So Just a general question for everyone but is 3m panel bond the best for bonding scoops and whatnot to dissimiliar materials? I would think so; sounds like its specifically made for it. Perhaps theres other favorites out there? Im just wondering if this is the stuff used that when properly faired/sanded then painted makes bonds look like 1 piece...? Tryied to use Bondo is such a manner was for me a disaster/mistake.
So Just a general question for everyone but is 3m panel bond the best for bonding scoops and whatnot to dissimiliar materials? I would think so; sounds like its specifically made for it. Perhaps theres other favorites out there? Im just wondering if this is the stuff used that when properly faired/sanded then painted makes bonds look like 1 piece...? Tryied to use Bondo is such a manner was for me a disaster/mistake
.Slayerx7 Can I find 3m panel bond at local auto parts?
Thanks
12-22-09, 09:47 AM
#23
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Trade your hood to an 87 turbo II owner. 1987 was the only year you could get a steel hood on your TII, and then 1987.5 and on, it was all aluminum. I'm sure a steel hood TII guy would jump on the trade straight up, as the steel good weighed a hefty 51 pounds.
Put it up on the WTT section of this site.
Put it up on the WTT section of this site.
12-22-09, 02:47 PM
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I also came up with one more solution besides the 3M stuff. sand both surfaces to bare metal and JB weld it on, then Fiberglass the lines into the body. that should hold up. Just be real liberal and get it on right the first time. when you move it around a bunch the stuff tends to thin out and not work as well.
