orion84gsl

iTrader: (5)

Mazda recommends 87 octane in all NA rotaries. Don't waste your money. And a Sterling carb and exhaust should get you close to your goal. I'm going to dyno my car sometime this year and see what kind of numbers I can get, once I get finished butt-dynoing the Sterling.

wankel=awesome

....Hi octane=rotary run worse???? Or maybe you mean fuel economy. I got an average of 18 MPG highway, it ran like a bat out of hell (sort of) and the idle was super smooth. BTW, Its name waaas "parts car" by the previous owner who had a really REALLY nice set of rx7's. An 84 GSL with a cute little SCCA Gt2 sticker on it and a 93 with mariah badging and IMSA stickers. I was amazed. Its new name is Felix Da Spowrtscar. Or just Felix for short. That should be in the "You know your a first gen owner if" thread.


Well, I have been doing more reading and I now wonder about the Racing Beat prepared Holley set ups.....Dont get in here and tell me it wont work cause its a holley....because only the carb body and housing is holley...the rest is racing beat internals; which if im not mistaken is the difference between a sterling nikki and a stock nikki. He uses the housing and replaces internals?

Does the weber 48 IDA downdraft use a choke? How tuneable is it? Does it need modified too?

What about the racing beat road race header? Could I get away with installing that, collecting with the megaphone assembly and making the outlet bolt on to different size exhaust piping? What size is correct for stock port 12A's?


Btw, for the theory that I shouldnt blow my engine first, I do not rev my engine above 8000 rpm. I go to the cars redline....no higher.


2nd Gen Direct Fire Mod w/ MSD 6A or 6AL??? How do I do this? I am within feet of boatloads of MSD stuff at work everyday....I may do this first. What is the "direct fire mod"?

Again, thanks everyone for the input! Keep it coming!

orion84gsl

iTrader: (5)

Actually the reason the Sterling is better FOR A ROTARY (just need to emphasize that part) is because of the way it is modified. The venturis are bored out to flow the same as a RB Holley, both have mechanical secondaries and use holley air bleeds, but the difference is in the size difference between the primary and secondary venturis. On a RB Holley they are both the same diameter, on a Sterling the primaries are smaller than the secondaries. Meaning they provide a higher velocity signal for better low end grunt, which is needed with a rotary. Remember, you still have the same 465CFM, just better tuned. At 3500-4000 RPM when you need the extra oomph, you dip into the secondaries and get the big rush of air. The question you need to ask yourself is do you want a carb that was already available and then just made to work on a rotary or do you want a carb that was designed for a rotary by the engineers that perfected the rotary, and then made better by a rotary enthusiast. Keep in mind a 4 barrel Holley is designed to huff air into a V8, not a rotary. RB did a good job making it work for a rotary, but it was not designed for a rotary. On top of that you will not get the attention to detail as you will with a Sterling. There's a reason for a longer turn around time. The man takes his time to make it look as good as it performs. I have some pictures of mine. I'll post them here. I was blown away by how much better it came out than I thought it would. Hopefully it will be here this week and I can give you a first hand review of what I think.

Also it doesn't matter if you go to 8K and blow the motor or it just blows itself up due to age or wear, your still going to destroy it. You may be able to salvage some parts, but the big pieces your going to need will be useless, no matter what. If a rebuild is in your sights, get it done before the engine goes and save yourself a headache.

For your ignition questions that info is archived here, do a search for those phrases, you should find what you need.
Good luck man.

orion84gsl

iTrader: (5)

Here they are. They are in bitmap format, and I don't know how to convert them to a better picture, so they are pretty small.

Joker1337

I don't know if you're making it run a lot worse, but it's not running any better.

Octane rating is a measure of how much you can compress the gasoline vapor before it auto-detonates. So in a high-compression car, you see them spec higher octanes for the combustion chamber. In a lower compression car, it's lower. IIRC, your 12A has a 8.7:1 ratio. It's not high enough to warrant 93 octane fuel.

It's not a function of the engine being a rotary. The RENESIS in the -8's runs on 93-octane from the factory, but I believe it's compression ratio hits 10.4.

Kentetsu

I couldn't have put it better myself man. Your carb looks awesome man. I really should send my "old version" back to Sterling for a little updating and Blingification.

Sterling

sterlingmetalworks.com/carbs/orion , of course.

Sterling

You are mistaken.

orion84gsl

iTrader: (5)

Yeah it's real pretty. ALMOST don't want to put it on the car. If I come into some extra change with nothing new to buy to actually put on the car, I may just buy a display model. I'm just dying to get my greasy hands on it.

clbsinvaders

Welcome. Glad to see you enjoy the car so much! Where's greenfield in relation to columbus?

ray green

iTrader: (14)

Here's a video of a 2GDFI mod, one of the easiest, least expensive and best mods you can do (about $20 to buy, about 20 minutes to put in - do a search):

http://youtube.com/watch?v=n3Va3xwWzVQ

n0ferz

iTrader: (4)

Man that finish is tight, what option is that one orion/sterling from the list of prices?

wankel=awesome

About two hours southwest of columbus. Wow, another ohio rotary.

wankel=awesome

Well, I wasnt trying to step on anybody's toes, but I actually called racingbeat the other day and one of the parts inquiry telephone guys told me he was familiar with the paul yaw and sterling carb. The guy on the phone mentioned the holley actually being built similiarly to the "yaw" and "sterling". No offense intended...but when you dont know anything you are easy to persuade

Im just getting as much info as possible before I dump a load on this and end up an empty bank account and no car. I dont mind being set straight from false information every now and then.

Another thing I remember from my past racing beat calls is that the 12a engine had a static compression of 9.4:1 and that a I would have to find rare turbo rotors(8.7:1)in order to run more than 7-8 psi....GODDAMN IT. I bought turbo rotors......

Arrg.....why do I feel like information from big companies and forums clash???

wankel=awesome

Also, I love the sterling idea....but what can be done with the stock manifold? It probably wont need much modification for the 150 HP should it? And yes, I checked the website, and it says "ported manifolds : coming soon" or something to that effect.

bliffle

Before attempting to use high octane fuel you should readup on the flame advance speeds of various octanes.

Low octane is best for rotarys for reasons other than just compression ratio.

wankel=awesome

So......much......information.......so......little ...time....



Can you guys tell I am used to working on mustangs? Im completely clueless.....here I was thinking the rotary couldnt be that much different...



I dont care if its different. Its very spirited, and I love it.

ray green

iTrader: (14)

Me too, boingers just don't do it for me anymore. Post some pictures of your GSL, that's the best model in my opinion (probably because I've owned four of them).

And really working on 1st gen rotaries isn't that much different than boingers, just easier and more fun. The only thing that is really different is the rotary engine and the 12A is so bullet proof reliable that it may never be an issue. I gave up on my plans to rebuild and modify years ago, I've never had one quit on me after hundreds of thousands of miles.

Also the stock set up is easier to maintain, better on gas mileage and raises resale value, all for the cost of maintenance rather than expensive "upgrades". When it breaks, that's the time to upgrade.

Have fun with the new toy! What do you use it for? Commuting? Racing? Weekends?

Ray

clbsinvaders

Here's a good site;
www.ohiorotaries.com

Don't feel bad, I started working on rotaries, and piston engines befuddle me.

wankel=awesome

Ray, this car is just what you said.... a toy. If I want to do burnouts on some lonely country road, or pass people and weave through traffic, this is car I choose. If I want fuel economy and a no excitement (not to mention the most annoying exhaust note) Ill drive my brothers honda accord. It has a name too: Craphead.

Also, im trying to figure out how to post pics....I also planned to take pics of my other projects and post them...if you dont mind seeing some american iron.

Ok, on a different note, the engine is coming out soon for repaint and to strip emissions. I also am going to take care of the wiring and possibly one of the MSD setups. My pullies came yesterday, and I cant afford the flywheel I want yet.....
www.racingbeat.com/FRmazda1.htm

elwood

iTrader: (1)

I agree. Lower octane fuels actually contain marginally more energy. Therefore, you will receive slightly better fuel economy and power with a lower octane fuel if your engine was designed to run on that lower octane.

The rub is that you can extract significantly more power from an engine if it is designed to run on higher octane by using higher compression and more advanced timing. These engines require higher octane to prevent detonation.

Newer engines have knock sensors, which will pull ignition timing to protect the engine at the onset of knock. With these engines, you get the best of both worlds -- higher power when you use high octane and protection from engine damage when you use low octane. A friend of mine who is a calibrator thinks that your cheapest operation is obtained by running low octane fuel, even if the manufacturer recommends high octane for best performance. The power and fuel economy loss is relatively little, while the fuel price difference is significant.

All this said, I wouldn't risk using lower octane on any turbo car.

djessence

Alot of the newer cars with the knock sensors etc, will do one of 2 things when low octane fuel is put in.

Firstly almost all of them will throw an engine code
Some will put the car into limp mode if the knock sensor is triggered
Or it will plain and simply run like ****.

If you had a car tuned for high octane you either need to run high octane or de-tune it.

To post pics, you can resize them in MS Paint using the Tool/stretch/screw button and put it down to 50 or 40. Then it should be a small enough file to attach in the threads. Or you can use a third party like photobucket.

Also I'm assuming you wanted the aluminum flywheel (RB is a flash site so the link just goes to whatever section you were in. ie 1st gen)

Glazedham42

iTrader: (4)

You're only about 2 hours away from me.

wankel=awesome

Okay, I figure from now on ill run 87 octane fuel.

And this weekend i bought the following:

1x MSD 6AL box and components

2x MSD Blaster "3" power tower coils.

1x Set of MSD 8.5 Superconductor wires.

1x K&N oil filter.

5x Quart of royal purple synthetic oil.

--Thats all for this weekend

I just have to figure out how to install this friggin box-o-wires.

wankel=awesome

Ok, i bought another blaster 3 coil for dldfis....I am going to try to take pictures through the process of installation to show how its done. Again.


I will also make a needed parts list and P.N.'s so an intersted rx7 guy can go right to his local parts store, put in the numbers and have it all delivered at the same time.


BTW, I drove a 88 GXL this weekend, and i think i talked my brother into buying it , i took a look at its coil system and decided i would test both three blaster coils and the second gen coil system.

I hope i will be able to contribute to this club with solid facts, and because i have some exhaust experience, and overexposure to car components...im thinking of designing an alternative to the R.B. dual exhuast system....P.M. me if your intersted; basically my design can be done by any guy close to a muffler shop and a visit to a local parts store.

However, It uses the R.B. dual road race header.....so it will have to be ordered.

I will be putting a version together as soon I finish my ignition work!