Anyone know of a good aluminum radiator for a 1st gen? that will bolt into the stock place? I really don't want to have to fabricate a mount for a custom griffen or something..


Thanks,
-Zach

 

what year/style rad. the tall or small?i got a 1-1" core alm. rad from srx7.com you have to cut the holed in the bracket but thats not to hard..... but GRAB the ky and your ankles 700$ but i LOVE mine. its the short 79-82 style. its a indigo

 

I'm waiting for a reply from another mfg who claims they can build form a pattern at right around $500. I'll post when I get their reply...

 

$700 is a little high, Especially for a single core radiator.. A 3row brass would be about as good...

I am gonna call grannysspeedshop.com and see if they can make me one.. they have them for a ford engine in a 1st gen, so all it would need is a different end tank..


I'll let you know what i find.. they chard ~$400 for the ford one..


Thanks,
-Zach

 

why does everybody think a 1 core is bad, A it holds lots more than the stock short 3 core i had. B with my black magic fan set @205 it NEVER gets hot. hell when it is 50 deg out i sit on the thermo when driving...digital water temp bounces from 176-192 and back... now when its 90+ it does go up but not above 210. the stock rad didnt even come close when i was up @10k feet this dude is cool all the time

 

hey zack you can always get one of those summit drag aluminum ones. i know a guy who put one in his turbo fb. all he had to do was find the correct width one and make a mount, they are close to 200-250$ i will go that route if my month old 85 style radiator doesnt cool down my beast

 

I called granny's and they say they can do it.. they are suppose to call me back tomarrow with the exact price..


BTW i am looking to cool my 13bt with 60-1 turbo.. Comparing that to a 12a street port is not the same.. I will need alot more cooling.. I guess i should have stated that..


Thanks,
-Zach

 

Sorry guys but I just don’t understand the big issue on aluminum radiator. First, u can use the stock casing and just have the radiator shop install either a 3-row or 4row radiator. Im using a 4-row and it only cost me less than $200. Temp stays at 190 despite the 2 hr bumper to bumper traffic during hot summer days here in los angeles.

 

And again you are running a NA engine not a turbo engine like i am going to be..


-Zach

 

my buddy has a turbo 13b streetport on his daily driver 510 and he is using the same set up. dont understand y u need an aluminum radiator. i guess if u have the cash, why not.. right?

 

Well, My friend as a TII with a T04 60-1 turbo.. And on the stock aluminium radiator he would get coolant temps of around 220 degrees not even running that hard.. He has since bought a fluidyne aluminium radiator that should take care of this..


I am going to be running the same type of setup as him in my 1st gen.. the max coolant temps i would want to see would be ~200 degrees under heavy throttle.. That is why i want to go with as good of a cooling system as i can get.. I do not think that a 3row brass radiator will do this for me..


-Zach

 

zach
thanks for explaining that.
merry xmas btw

 

Here's something else to think about as to why you would be better off getting an aluminum radiator as opposed to a stocker. The more disimilar metals you have in a coolant circuit, the higher (I'm going to guess at the specific name of this phenom, so all the CalTech types can pass at diggin' on me for forgetting its' true name...it's been a couple of beers since I learned this science...) electrolytic potential differences exist in the coolant solution. What this means to us with iron/aluminum casings in our engines is that you're creating a "battery" when you use a brass radiator. Instead of being able to use it to store chemical energy, though, this kind of battery basically takes the neg metal and deposits it on the pos metal. This is why you see a brass radiator basically fall apart over a decade. With an aluminum radiator, the EP is greatly reduced, so it'll last longer if built sturdy and the deposits in the iron housings should be reduced as well over the same period of time. That and you can polish the tanks to a beautiful shine! There might even be a weight savings if it's been designed properly...

 

really...

 

Well, Haven't heard back from grannys.. I guess i should call them again..


-Zach

 

I haven't checked my home Email to see if RR ever replied either. Makes you wonder why individuals and companies post a "Contact Us" Email address if they never respond to them. Everyone's better off if they just don't give them out.

 

I called, gave them my home # & cell phone #...


I will be buying something very soon.. So if they don't want to sell them oh wel....


-Zach

 

Hey, anyone looking for a radiator still??? I just found out mazdacomp has an aluminum one for ~$390.. And it is a bolt in replacement..



BTW anyone want my never used griffen radiator???


-Zach

 

FOR FREE!?!?!?!? SURE

 

Is that the same Mazdacomp that you have to provide proof of racing license or they won't sell to you?

 

Yep.. Or you can sign up for IDRC (~$40) and they will give you an account.. or you could sign up for SCCA...


BTW the griffen will not be free but make a reasonable offer and i might let it go.. There is some damage from shipping on the water outlet.. but it will still be 100% functional..


-Zach