Not 20B's for me. At least not for my FB. I just came from Day One of the Hurricane Nationals at Moroso Motorsports Park. This car belongs to my UPS Deliveryman. A Good Guy.

Looks Stock don’t it? It’s a GSL-SE with a 12A Engine!


Rear View


That's a 12A In there!!


Turbo 12A With Haltech F9, TWM Throttle bodies


Interior


Getting Ready for a Burnout.


Clearing out the Tires with some BOOOST!


I was there. I took the picture TODAY. Full Interior, No Weight Reduction. Celica Tranny, Datsun Rear End, 25lbs of Boost, - 12A engine.


10.19 @ 132.13 MPH with a 12A. Street Driven, Daily Driver.
Who Needs a 20B in the first Gen again?

 

i agree that a 20B would be a great mod. definitely rare for a Gen I car, but as everyone has said, i hope you some pretty deep pockets!!! it's not going to be easy or cheap, so good luck with it.

on another note, can anyone hear describe how a 20B sounds (compared to a 13B) - i know it's a tough question, but i don't know anybody with one and i'm curious ... maybe someone has a sound clip????

 

[QUOTE]Originally posted by MIKE-P-28
[B]

There is no such thing as a 13b TT. Its a 13b-REW (thats a 3rd gen Rx-7 motor)

The 13b is of course 1308cc, the B is the series of 13b's, and the RE is rotary engine, and W stands for Twin (dont know how they got W but thats the desigantion of letters)[QUOTE]

I read somwhere that the W in 13b-REW mean't double U as in double turbo. Was some sort of japanese translation thing. Forgot where I had seen that though.

 

Mike-P-28 in a very minor matter the W did not stand for twin turbo but for Double-turbocharger. The RX-7 had two identical turbos, twins if you like, unlike the Cosmo which I believe had two different ones inspite of the reviews calling it twin sequential. If this is correct both would still be REW!

According to a tech spec I read the RX-7 3 gen original design specs were for a three rotor 20a{?} but the designers thought it was too heavy and would have required a much stronger support structure and drive system. There was also concern whether it was too powerful as the first specs called for a 250hp max.

 

OK everyone split my hairs why dontcha? LOL

 

[QUOTE]Originally posted by RX-7-8593
[B][QUOTE]Originally posted by MIKE-P-28


There is no such thing as a 13b TT. Its a 13b-REW (thats a 3rd gen Rx-7 motor)

The 13b is of course 1308cc, the B is the series of 13b's, and the RE is rotary engine, and W stands for Twin (dont know how they got W but thats the desigantion of letters)

Quote:

I read somwhere that the W in 13b-REW mean't double U as in double turbo. Was some sort of japanese translation thing. Forgot where I had seen that though.

Yeah the double U is correct.. I just didnt get that specific

 

OOOps nevermind

 

sound clips. i got my flanges so there will be more soon
http://www.2751engineering.com/miket2.html
if it matters they call the 20b an rew too, and its super heavy.

mike

 

diabolical1, http://www.3rotor.com/ has some sound clips (and vid clips). The reason why it sounds different is because it has three rotors firing every 120º instead of two firing every 180º. It really makes a big difference in the sound. I love it! I'm doing a 20B swap into an old '76 Cosmo (CD series) at least 50% for the sound alone. The old car has so many heavy parts on the stock engine that a cleaned up 20B ought to be similar in weight. The 20B was either going into the Cosmo or a 2nd gen (most likely T2) because they are both heavier than a 1st gen. I didn't have a 2nd gen, so the Cosmo (or possibly an REPU) is the best choice. I don't think I'd ever put a 20B into a 1st gen. I like 'em light and tossable, not front heavy.

 

A streetported NA 20b with hi comp 91 rotors would be sick in a 1st gen,

thats got to have a **** load of torque.

 

Well thanks for the corection for the engine code of the 3rd gen rx7 so what should i do then what motor should i drop into the car

i would like to get alot of top end on the motor well atleast a decent amount

 

a streetport, single turbo cosmo. the cosmo i believe has more torque (looking for any raised eyebrows?). so it won't feel as lagged with the larger turbo and still have a mean topend.

 

<- doing a 20b swap into a '85 GSL-SE.

Warning to all who want to do it:

1. It's not cheap.
2. There are faster alternatives to get power.
3. Locating a 20b isn't the easiest.
4. Did I mention it's not cheap?
5. Lots of fab work.

 

my unopened turbo 20b pulls harder from idle in 5th than the stock motor did in 3rd and it is 100% smoother than the 2 rotor.

mike

 

Ummmm well as someone in Aus who has fully looked into it not sure if ya realise even if ya do install the trick 20b you wont be ablr to play hard in it because if it go BANG!!!!!!!! parts are extremely rare to get
mt twenty cents worth ( for those not in the know thats australian currency )
Cheers
Aus

 

Parts aren't really much of a problem as a lot of them are interchangeable with the 13B.

 

According to Peter Farrell, the difference between the 13 B and the 20B is about 100 lb. I didn't weigh my car before the swap. After the swap, it weighs 236 lb. more than what the factory says it should weigh, but that includes about 80 lb. of Dyanmat and all my tools and other stuff that stay in the car, so Peter's number sounds about right.

The 700 hp is doable, provided that you have the right combination of hardware and someone who knows how to make it all work right together. That is another way of saying "buckets of money".

 

If you missed it visit www.hitman.hm

Here is the 3 rotor "Not20B" car..

//Magnus

 

heh then there's little ol' me who's planning a carb'd 6port 13b swap...

a 20b would be sweet for that holyshit factor. and they have excellent power while remaining damn quiet. (350-ish stock, with almost 300ft/lbs at like 3k rpm iirc).

i'll stick to the twin rotor until i'm a rich oil baron or something.