Rx7carl

We really need this here. What to look for, pics if possible, pitfalls, etc. So have at it.

84gsNC

not sure if this is what your looking for, but I know when I bought my 83 GSL I should of checked the rearend, especially how hard to find they are becoming

Rx7carl

What specifically? Im hoping to have this be a guide for noob's and non technical prospective buyers.

84gsNC

just the play in it, w/ the rearend up in the air, how much slop it has turning the wheel before the other one turns, this will indicate how much slop there is in the ring/pinion, not sure what the exact specifications are on how much it should turn, but my other rearend you could turn the wheel a full quarter turn in both directions before the other tire would catch, it would pop repeatedly when trying to accelerate from a stop

rbf41182gt

My advice:

Be very thourogh with your check for rust. Check EVERYTHING. (not really needed for those living in the non-rustbelt states) But make sure you know where all the rust is, so you don't end up with a lot more than you bargained for.

Zyrano

Well, i know before considering buying a first gen in cali, make sure you can pass smog /it has already passed smog with it, because a lot of fbs in cali for sale are because it didn't pass smog. Also read through the faq, be familiar with the model line up, engine, get a compression check of the motor, and look for body rust.

Tranquil

iTrader: (1)

When going to look at a first gen take the following items with you.

#1 Phillips (star) head screwdriver
#1 Sockets to take out spark plugs if flooded
#2 bottles of beer

Use the tools to do the following

Screwdriver to check the wheel wells: Remove the 6 screws on each storage bin and check behind them for excess rust or any rust.

Booze: Give it to the guy and drive away
Booze: Drink it then and there because you might be in the car a while

Other things: take the sunroof out and inspect it, inspect the seals around the sunroof and that it comes out relatively easily.
- check and make sure all lights work
- look under and around the car for rust or leaks
- check the wheels and make sure they won't come off due to old bearings
- take a friend's key and try it and possibly drive it away

Rx7carl

Ok, not bad but I was hoping for more 1st gen specific stuff.

Pop the rear hatch and check for rust around the body lip. Flip up the vertical carpet and look/feel at the backside too for rust. Very common area for rust due to clogged drain hoses.

Tranquil

iTrader: (1)

The First Gens are IMO the most basic and economical sports car available to the everyday enthusiast and collector.

They don't have many specific problems like the electrical systems on the FCs and the avanced drivetrain of the FDs.

Its a common sense no BS game with them.

neektar

iTrader: (2)

Some keys things I've looked at while buying my second first gen.
RUST
Remove the Storage Bins and check vigorously (sp) for rust as this is a prime location.
Check inside the tire well,door jams, under the doorjams especialy in the corners
Lift the hood and check the hinges where the hood is attched for rust aswell.
Under the radiator (if you can get there)
Sunroof (very common so check extra closely)
Spare tire well
Fuel Tank underbelly!

ENGINE
As with most cars you wanna make sure the engine is actually running. Ask the owner how hard he's driven it previously (can determine carbon deposites) and how often he's changed the oil (I usually do 2-3). What kind of oil he used (I've herd synthetic is the devil) and what kind of filter (fram=evil)

Make sure the car idles and can easily get to redline with out bogging or hesitation (can result from bad carb. tuning)

Check to make sure the fan clutch is still functional and cools the engine enough at high revs while stationary and while driving.

Check the engine before the test drive vigorously and then afterwards equaly but be on the look out for leaks (generally on the passenger's side near the oiltank,drivers side near the filter, driver's side near the fan clutch) and smoke.

Drive the car hard but don't try to break anything. 5k-6.5k shifts are recommended. Then grandma drive the car. 3k shifts.

INTERIOR
Nice clean inside is good to have. Cracking in the leather is expected to a degree (nothing like a 5in gap) Expect the dash to be a bit faded if the car was daily driven (nothing major if the car was well taken of)

Aftermarket radio? Check the wireing, speakers and amps ect. Ask for recpits.

There shouldn't be any wires hanging out of the bottom near the pedals, ask for reasoning if there is.

Fuses, windows (both power and roll down)

Check for mystery stains on the carpet and on the door panels.

If the car has had work done on it ask for reciepts and inspect what has been done on it.

This might not be very specific to rotaries, but it's what I looked at when I recently bought my 2nd first gen.

Happy Hunting

$100T2

iTrader: (1)

Get under the goddamn thing and look for rust everywhere. Look under the storage bins, and look at the mounting points for the rear suspension. That seems to be the worst of it.

jfachner72

If I can add my .02 cents...

I would suggest letting the car "idle" for as long as you can. I have seen cars that run just fine when you are driving them but overheat after 10-15 min of idling......

Jay

1984 FB Misty Blue Metallic

Dan_s_young

iTrader: (1)

make sure the car idles at a steady 800-900 rpms... But honestly the biggest thing is checking for wheel well bin rust under the storage bins. Check the condition of the engine bay, does it look like the car was taken care of? I would quickly look for leaks, or anything that could cause problems in the future.

Oh and I nearly forgot, a compression test!