calvin

You might try sending them to these people

http://www.cruzinperformance.com/

or

http://www.witchhunter.com/

they are reasonable, especially for only 2 injectors.

HadaGSL-SE

iTrader: (6)

I just tested the injectors out today, they didnt leak with just the key in the on position, and seemed to spray nicely when I cranked the motor. Theyve already been cleaned and balanced by the way.

revv_head

im a rotary machanic

revv_head

im a rotary machanic

check the alternator and the gear box try starting in all gears push and crank and try with clutch in this is probly not it but its worth a try and see if your running rich. its hard to determin when i cant see it. check apex seals that might be why you have low compression have gasket glue first.

when you fix it with or without my help you can email me for any more help with anything thats wrong my emails revv_head@hotmail.com any one else can to glad to help

Nathan

revv_head

ignore this look at older posts

revv_head

wait pull it apart get some gasket glue first check apex seals i just thought of that thats why you have low compression mabe

Kentetsu

Okay, here's a new train of thought for you....

What tells the injectors how much gas you need? I believe its the AFM. If your car thinks that it needs more gas than it really does, then your injectors would flood the motor. With gas coming out of the hole in the exhaust, I'd say its pretty obvious that this is a flooding issue.

Find Longduck, PM him if you need to, but ask him to check out your thread. He'll probably know exactly what it is. Good luck...

Alak

iTrader: (9)

Maybe his timing is out. Did you check that?

HadaGSL-SE

iTrader: (6)

Timing is one thing I do definetly need to check.
But that means buying a timing light and getting to the parts store, both of which are a problem right now.

BTW does anyone know what these 30 psi numbers mean? Im hitting that on each face of each rotor, or up to 90+ if I just keep cranking it.

revv_head

man check the apex seals and alternator

Kentetsu

Did you contact Longduck yet? He'll probably have this solved in a matter of seconds...

HadaGSL-SE

iTrader: (6)

It doesnt seem like Longduck accepts PM's there is no option under his name for it. =(

Kentetsu

Start a thread, something like "attention Londuck" with a link to this thread inside. Just politely ask him for his assistance... He seems pretty cool, I'm sure he'll help you out.

HadaGSL-SE

iTrader: (6)

Update, changed the oil and plugs
Car ran but smoking and "missing" badly, it wouldnt rev above 2.5k or so by itself.

But when i removed the blue spade connector on the leading coil to cut the fuel, (throttle was floored) the car would rev like normal for a second but then start to die, so I would plug it back in and the car would go back to the 2.5k smoking and missing.

An ideas how I could regulate or change how much fuel is being dumped in.

-Greg

LongDuck

Hey, you guys certainly have a lot of faith in me!

I'll do what I can, but what you're describing could cover a whole slew of things;

First off, there's a reason why using a piston compression tester is called the 'Ghetto-fabulous' method - it's because it's not very accurate! When you use the piston tester, it's designed to get a single pulse signal through a single intake/compression cycle. For the rotary, you're getting 3 pulses for every rotation of the eccentric shaft, that this results in weird readings on the gauges. If you let the gauge pick "highest found", you will see the 'best' compression reading of all 3 chambers (as long as you don't keep cranking it...). This is the 90psi reading that you're getting, which is fine. Most factory engines will only test at about 95-100psi because the seals aren't broken in and sealing perfectly, yet. Add some MMO to the intake and they will artificially jump to 120-130psi, but only temporarily due to better gas sealing. In the end: your compression is fine.

Whenever some problem like this arises, you need to look at what you were doing when the problem occurred. In your case, you were rapping your engine up to 7k rpm and shifting into 2nd gear. POP! White smoke, and fuel smell. Call the tow truck...

Let's take a second and think about what may be happening at that moment in time when the problem occurred (the car stopped running). At high fuel flow as in WOT acceleration to redline, the engine is drawing in a lot of fuel and a lot of air. If the fuel filter is in good shape, this fuel tends to pass through just fine. You've already replaced the fuel filter.

The airflow going through your AFM was probably at max you're ever going to see. The fact that the car starts and runs (crappy) now, probably rules out the AFM as being part of the problem, particularly that the AFM tends to be a pretty solid part of the system. The coolant temp sensors and things haven't changed - you haven't changed them; these are unlikely to be a root cause.

Going back to the fuel flow issue, the injectors were firing at max pulse, which could lead to a sticking injector or injector 'leakdown' which will vent excess pressure into the airstream - causing an overly rich mixture. You have this symptom. Fuel leaking from cracks in your exhaust system means you're running REALLY rich, which could also be a cracked injector or open injector which is allowing full fuel pressure to run down into the chambers.

When you pull the plugs, is front or rear more or less 'wet' from excess fuel? (this would indicate which injector may be leaking down).

Back to the fuel pump, there are internal walls that limit max fuel flow from the EFI pump. If, at high demand and high volume flow, the fuel pump internal restrictor were to break free, this would allow a significant increase in fuel pressure at the rail, resulting in an overly rich mixture. This would seem to indicate that you need to get a fuel pressure gauge and determine if your fuel pump is pumping TOO MUCH pressure, and overpowering the injectors. This could also lead to an overabundance of fuel in your intake/exhaust.

Give these things some thought and then reply back with anything else that you've done.

LongDuck

And, while I'm thinking about; take a close look at your distributor cap and rotor.

Could be that while spinning the engine up that high (7k rpm), the rotor contacted the housing and broke a pin off, or otherwise caused the rotor to get carbon burned. Replacement of these parts would be cheap insurance.

Also, check your plug wires - if you grounded one of these out, it will cause cross-fire and/or missing during idle conditions. HTH,

HadaGSL-SE

iTrader: (6)

I feel like a complete jackass and am out about $150.

It was the coolant temp sensor. I plugged it in, the car ran fine, after about 30 minutes the smoke from the gas in the exhaust finally burned off and I drove it around. Although it doesnt feel as powerful as before.

Thanks for all the help everyone

-Greg

jrs10

So was it unplugged before? Did you replace the sensor? How did it become unplugged?

smnc

Hey it happens.

I spent a month trying to track down a tuning problem with my car only to discover the problem was a frayed wire on the TPS....

I'm just glad it worked out for you!

HadaGSL-SE

iTrader: (6)

It must of unplugged itself when I shifted to second, all I did was plug it back in.

Ha Im not even running a TPS, its just unplugged, it was causing surging at idel in gear.

GavinJuice

so plug it back in and tune it!

Kentetsu

LOL, that was my next guess.......

revv_head

hey this was the first thing i posted on so i thought id bring it 2 first page 4 sum random reason