Monte0704

I know you guys are going to ask me to use the search function, but I've read every single thread and not one has quite answered my question.

First off, not my car. I've never timed a dizzy car before, but I'm trying to help a friend.

This is on a 1985 13b 6port in the GSL-SE.

I have confirmed that the two marks on the pulley are facing up, and that rotor #1 is at 'TDC' or whatever. I've got a white mark that comes up first, and a second uncolored mark after that. I'm getting conflicting reports if the first mark is 0 degrees or 5 degrees BTDC. That also means I don't know what the second mark is.

But that's not the biggest deal. The mechanical advance has been welded in the 'open' or expanded position, and the vacuum advance is gone, with vac caps where they pull their signal from. The arms and diaphragms gone. That means the Leading and trailing vac advance are just sitting there, way easy to just turn with the cap and rotor off. There's no way those are staying put while driving the car.

I'm tempted to just weld them together, 10 degrees apart. Then I'd probably have to weld them to the dizzy so they both wouldn't turn, huh?

I see a mark on the L vac advance, and a scale of marks on the T Vac advance. No idea which marks are what degrees.

We managed to get it started yesterday, but more by dumb luck than anything else.

Should we put the vac advance arms and diaphragms back in place and then just leave the vacuum source unhooked so they don't active, but also hold the timing correct? Or just weld that bitch?

Then, once that's done, I'm going to have to time the thing. Since the mechanical advance is held wide open, do we just set timing at 4krpms?

I'm sorry this is a lot to ask, but I just need a little bit of guidance to run with this.

Here's my pulley.