Hi ,

I really need help from the pros over here.
I am having a fuel related problem with a GSL-Se that i bought a bit ago.
i bought the car from a guy that bought it to fix it but gave up.

when i got the car it didn't start, i got it running, cleaned the injectors, replaced the injector clips, intake manifold gaskets, fuel filter and spark plugs.

it seems like this problem it's being going for a while because the blue wire with red dots that powers the fuel pump was cut by the dirver side floor and tap into the fuse box, I replaced the circuit opening relay on the passenger side and no luck,


Now, with the fuel pump running straight from the fuse box the car runs and drives but when i am driving and as the rpms go up, around 2500-3000 rpms the car falls on its face, (pedal to the floor and nothing) the car goes blank for about 2-3 seconds and then keeps going and does it again when it gets to 4500-5000 range.

i swaped tps sensosr with my other GSL-SE ones and no luck, also swapped the MAF sensors and no luck. The fuel pump looks like it was replaced but i havent got it out to check, I also drained all the old gas and put brand new 93 in it.




also if i take the circuit opening relay off and jump the blue/red dot with black/white stripe wires the car also starts and drive but it does the same.
Maybe i have to de-pin it cut the old female plugs and use new ones? maybe the rust is preventing it from making a good connection?




why would the FP not get any power with the relay on? maybe corrosion? it looks like the car flooded once or some water got in it bacause that bracket that hold the relay is all rusty.

Any ideas?

 

this is what they had going on to get power to the fuel pump



please help me get this thing on the road before i make it carbed.

 

Have you looked at the MAF? I can't recall on these, but some cars (Toyota for instance) use the MAF as part of the relay circuit to turn on the fuel pump. The more I think about it, the more I think these do use the MAF to trigger the fuel pump. On Toyotas you can manually move the flapper inside to check that the fuel pump comes on with the key on.

~T.J.

 

ok so the fuel pump of these cars doesn't work until the car is cranking, i have to also do a volume test tomorrow. is it for 1 minute or 2?

 

for the volume test, 1 minute is good.

 

I would tee a fuel pressure gauge in the line to verify it is or is not fuel pressure related before throwing more parts at it. Have you considered it could be ignition related? the GSLSE's ecu gets a signal from the distributor to know when to trigger the injectors so if the pick-up or ignitor fails the ecu will not trigger them. The pick-up inside the distributor has a small wire on it and they do move with the advance mechanism so it could be an intermittent problem as you described.

 

^ i will check that, i replaced the circuit opening solenoid and the car starts now without jumping anything, it is not the afm because i swapped it with the one of my good gsl-se and does the same thing, when is climbing up in rpms it bogs and if i leave the pedal down it doesn't do anything for about 2-3 seconds then picks up again, * now if when it bogs out i shift gears it keeps going.
So far we have narrow the problem to fuelpump, fuel pressure regulator or clogged lines. tomorrow i will do the volume test and drop the tank to check the filter, i also have a S4 13b fuel rail that i might swap to see if it gets better.

 

1 more thing to check on the fuel delivery, on the inlet to the original fuel pump on the gslse there is a small cone shaped strainer that could be partially restricted I had 1 in my old car I found it when I was ready to replace the pump after cleaning it out with some brake cleaner the car got all of its power back on the top end but I never had any intermittent issues like yours,just a loss of power.

 

This is dead on, exactly what's begun happening to my SE.
I've been reading a lot, saying that it should be my TPS, and a friend of mine said that would likely be the cause. As well, it could be good to get a new cap and rotor.

I was sad to see no results from this thread! Che, is there anything that you were able to figure out that could help me?

 

Sounds like we already ruled out the TPS. But I didn't see anywhere that you made the adjustments to dial it in.

I'm pretty sure that you just can't toss in a new or good used TPS and expect it to work without turning that adjustment screw to the sweet spot. There is a thread here on making a cheap 2-lamp test light to help you. An Ohm meter will help you check the TPS you have to make sure that you're getting smooth current along its entire travel.

Worn-out spots along the TPS travel will feel like a fuel delivery problem. But each one is made a little differently from the factory, so you can't skip the adjustment step to match it to your car's brain.