I just bought a 1984 GSL-SE three days ago and want to get it running as soon as I can!

Does anyone know a current part number for the fuel cut off relay next to the ecu? My fuel pump is good, but there is no power going to it at all, not even while turning over, and even with the afm stuck open/bypassed. Ive called two local Mazda dealerships, in fact one sent me to the other because they have older parts catalogues, but neither can find anything in their catalogues with the part number printed on the original relay. Also, does anyone know how to test the old relay to tell me if that's what is bad?

Thanks in advance!

 

Don't know about the GSL-SE right off hand, but the fuel cut relay in a 12A is right under the dash where your right knee would hit. Just jumper the connector for now so you can confirm it's actually the relay.

 

The relay itself is at the passenger side floorboard by the ECU, but I don't know which connections to jump..

 

Based on the wiring diagram found here http://foxed.ca/rx7manual/manuals/19...g_Diagrams.pdf on page B2 jumper connector B29 (Circuit Opening Relay) jumper the BW to L (Black-White to Blue).

 

Thank you very much! That should help a lot, I'll check it out shortly when I get to the car!!

 

I tried jumping the relay and could get about 5v at the max while turning over (to the plug right before the fuel pump power lines go through the floor). I'm not sure what should be going through that connection power wise. I also blew out the fuel lines, dropped the tank, cleaned and painted it, so I know there's no blockages. It was only me today so I couldn't get down and check the voltage at the actual fuel pump. I'm starting to wonder if it's the fuel pump after all, if it's not supposed to run at 12v, and I tested with 12v, the healthy flow could have been more than the car sees.

 

It's suppose to be 12v

 

Ah, that just means more fun finding wires and such.... ahhhh... I just noticed yesterday that while turning it over there is no movement in the tach. I could not check the spark plug to see if there's spark on fire up, because it was only me.. so I don't know if it's the trailing ignitor, or what either. Because the trailing ignitor is connected to both the tach and the fuel pump if I remember correctly.

 

I found the wires on mine. You just probe from the connecter under the passenger carpet to the other end in the bin. Pretty easy. I think one of the wires you jump is blue and black.

 

I believe I got it jumped correctly and still only had about 5v at max to the connection behind the driver seat. I need to check the power at the jumping points in the relay as well. What would cause weak power if that is the problem? And would an igniter gone bad act like this? I'm tempted to replace them any ways with the gm units

 

Maybe a bad ground?

 

I replaced the ignitors today, along with the wires, and plugs just for good measure. I'm fairly new to troubleshooting electrical problems, where would be a good place for me to start checking the grounds? Its very apparent that one of the PO's has messed around with the wires, like for instant one of the cables going to the fuel cut off relay has been cut and a wire ran to behind the dash (I'm assuming its to the tach or maybe the key, i need to check) and one of the wires that was going to the connector in the cab to the fuel pump was spliced from another line. The original wire was there and I put it it back in the connector, and thats the connection that gets 5v. i guess i need to check to see if that wire that was spliced is a ground or a power line.

 

The ground runs from the battery to the drives side strut tower then to the starter. What you'll find is that the cables get corroded. Replacing with new solves many issues. I ran a 00 or 02 size cable from the battery all the way to the starter. Then I ran a short 2 foot doubled ended cable from the battery to the strut tower. I also ran another 2 foot cable from the alternator bolt to the battery.

You need to trace out the wires the PO added and understand what they are for and possibly correct what was done. Could be he wired in a fuel pump kill switch or maybe the fuel pump relay went out and he ran a 12v source.

If you're near Liberty MO I can help, just PM me your number.

 

I'll try running new ground wires either tonight or tomorrow. The car is actually in Oak Grove right now, but I'm from Kansas City. I'll pm you