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1984 13B SE EFI excess parts removal...

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Old 12-02-04, 10:07 PM
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Question 1984 13B SE EFI excess parts removal...

Ok I was originally going to remove the rats nest and air pump from my EFI '84 but most of the threads have stated thats not a good idea to remove the rats nest. Ok fine. So do I have to keep my air pump? And what is a Dynamic Chamber and where is it? Someone also stated I should remove my radiator and replace it with a FC. Why??? If I did would a FD radiator work? Would there be any performance change if I tilted it foreward or backwards or would that just look retarted? Please help. Thanx.

Nate
Old 12-02-04, 10:14 PM
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The Dynamic chamber is the plenum that the throttle body connected to. Right on the top of the motor. im not sure about your but mine says RE-EGI on it. as far as what you can and cannot removed im not entirely sure good luck with that and let me know what you find out. Im sure i could remove afew things myself
Old 12-02-04, 10:33 PM
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If you do not a cats, you can go ahead and remove the air pump, ACV, and the air silencer (connected to ACV). You will just need to buy or make a block off plate for the air control valve. The dynamic chamber is the box shaped part on the intake with RE-EGI cast into it. The reason why people do not removing the rats nest on the SE is because most influence drivability in some way.

The solenoids and their functions are as follows:

Green solenoid: Cuts vacuum advance to the distributor at idle and deceleration
Orange solenoid: Bumps fuel pressure from approx. 28psi to 37 psi on hot starts to help prevent vapor lock.
The two cylindrical solonoids (aka vent and vacuum solenoid): These control you BAC (Bypass Air Control) valve with in turn is used to maintain a steady idle (800 rpm).
Blue and Gray solenoids on firewall (relief and switching solenoids): These operate your ACV, so if you remove the air pump and ACV, you can remove these as well.

Read about the throttle body mod in the 2nd gen forum. This will free up a couple hp on the top end and simplify things a bit. The trade off is a little rougher running when the engine is cold.

A lot of the rats nest can be removed along with the BAC, but you will have to probably have to increase idle to compensate. I think Max7 and Jimmy54 on this forum have a very simplified rats nest on their SEs. Do a search of their posts and see if can can find some pics.

I personally would just stick with the stock radiator. It offers plenty of cooling and is rebuildable.

Kent
Old 12-02-04, 10:57 PM
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where is the air control valve located and what does it do?

On a different note, do you have any idea what the long bending rod that travels all the way down the front of the engine connected to the TPS mechanism goes to. That whole mechanism is sticking and making my car run at 1400 RPM. I have to stab the throttle to make it go back down to 1000.
Old 12-02-04, 11:17 PM
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The air control valve (ACV) is located on the passenger side of the engine. You will see the black hose coming from the back of the air pump and connecting to it. Its purpose is to direct the air from the air pump into either the exhaust ports, the main cat, or out to the atmosphere. It is just like the 12A cars so you can just follow any of the tutorails as far as removing the ACV.

The long metal rod connects to the OMP (oil metering pump). The OMP is used to lubricate the apex seals. It flows oil through the 4 clear lines that run up the front of the engine, next to the water pump, and back under the intake manifold. This shouldn't cause the throttle to stick, but try to clean around and inside of the throttle plates real good and lubricate with some penetrating oil. This should free up the throttle plates from sticking.
Old 12-02-04, 11:29 PM
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Here is the rats nest removal Max7 did on his GSL-SE:

https://www.rx7club.com/1st-generation-specific-1979-1985-18/rats-nest-removal-13b-333633/

Kent
Old 12-02-04, 11:30 PM
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No need to change over to a FC rad unless your's is broken.
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