Not for a couple months, unfortunately.

 

I checked on the way home from the Rallycross yesterday, and I easily hit 110 on primaries alone. It didn't even take all that long and she was flying.... Oh wait! That was with a Sterling carb! But anyway, somebody who has a stock carb with mech secondaries ought to be able to verify this quite easily, if more proof is needed.

 

Yeah with a sterling carb I could see it. In fact I used to do it.

 

I did it last night agian on the stock carb just to check and it did it on primaries alone.

 

You only answered the first PM but none of the others. Not for a couple of months you say? I can wait.

 

Awe man, I'm sorry.
Best thing always is to email me at sterling@sterlingmetalworks.com
This way I automatically put you in a file so I can keep track, as well as generating an email customer list for updates, news, etc.
Ressurecting the old Back Yard Mechanic's Club forum, too. I'll keep be updating the website soon.

 

I Am Reporting Back After Our Compression Test. Both The Top Spark Plug Holes Were Tested With The Other Spark Plugs In But All The Wires Removed. The Engine Was Cranked Over And Both The Top Holes Tested The Same. If You Held The Relief Valve Open, The Needle On The Compression Gauge Would Bounce Up And Down With A Maximum Of About 60 Psi. If You Did Not Open The Relief Valve, The Gauge Would Go Up To About 75 Or 80 And Build Up Right Away To 120 And Stay At 120. The Readings Were Identical From The T1 And The T2. This Is Not A Specialized Compression Tester For Rotarys , Just A Standard Tester. This Was Done On A Cold Engine.

 

Compression isn't bad, as long as all of the bumps were even. While the 60 psi is low, 80+ would be better, the 120 is good. Did you add any oil to the chambers before doing the test?

Please loose the caps.

 

trochoid: no, we did not add oil before doing the compression test

 

Adding oil can up the compression #s a bit, particularly if the engine has sat for a long time or had been flooded and washed the combustion chambers clean.

 

hey im sure youve read all this and already have it fixed but if you dont, take it run it hard for half an hour or so. Rev all the way to 7000 when shifting. Also check your plugs for fouling. have a buddy rev it and hold it about 5000rpm. See if the secondaries are opening. If the trailing ignitor is out then your tach will not be working either. That is how you know your ignitor has failed. In any case i recomend you find a haynes or chilton book for it. I have the haynes and for the fb it literally contains every single bolt from tear down to rebuild.