kcscott11

Ok, i got a rx7...today. I test drove it at the guys house and it ran fine. He said it would sometimes, and others the carbeurator would flood. Got it home on a trailer and unloaded it, started it too move it.... it died. Started it, drove it up to my garage, then it died, now it wont start. The thing is, i know on most cars when you turn the key on without cranking the fuel pump should run for just a few seconds well i can hear this one running while sitting inside the car, and it runs the entire time the key is on? Is this just they way this car works or is the fuel pump making the engine flood? Or do yall think its something to do with the carbeurator. Let me know.... this car is a new type car for me.... Thanks. K.C.

brandon davis

iTrader: (3)

You must warm up a rotary before you shut it off. Or else it floods out. this is a common thing. Also, your fuel pump should be on when the key is on.

kcscott11

well its been like an hour im going to try to start it again wish me luck....

kcscott11

nope. It still will not start. choked or unchoked. Perhaps its the carbeurator. Im not too sure. I know its nothing major.... Its dark and I really cant see to work on it, but according to you, if the key is on the fuel pump is running on a 79 rx7?

Starfox07

I don't deal with carbs too much, but I'm fairly certain you are going to have to unflood it. IE take the leading plugs out and turn it over a few times.

kcscott11

I considered that, but i guess ima wait until tomorrow after work, by then it may start anyhow.... if not ill pull the plugs... :\

Starfox07

Your engine could be carboned too.

Thread:
https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...hreadid=281207

Its a good idea to read through a good bit of the FAQ, some good stuff in there.
https://www.rx7club.com/1st-generation-specific-1979-1985-18/1st-gen-rx-7-faq-page-237777/

74RX4

iTrader: (10)

When I get a new rotary the first thing I do is replace the fuel filter and check the condition of the gas that is in it. If the gas in the tank seems ok, add Sea Foam or some other fuel system dryer/cleaner and several gallons of fresh gas.

Next is distributor cap, rotor, points (in a 79/80) and spark plugs.

While I've never owned a 79, I've found a successful starting method for "cold" carbed rotary engines to be.........

Full choke
ignition on
Press the gas pedal to the floor let it back up 1 time
Start
Adjust choke to 1500-2000 rpms

If it's flooded or has sticky seals a tablespoon of motor oil, Marvel mystery oil or even Automatic tranny fluid added to each of the four barrels of the carb will help compression and starting. When it does start the cloud of smoke it produces is significant. If you live in a residential area the fire department may get calls.

Kentetsu

Absolutely hit all of the typical tune up items. But for now, just to get it running, dump a couple of ounces of Seafoam down the carb (pour it into the smaller of the four barrels) and try it again. That will usually start a flooded rotary without all the bullshit of having to pull the plugs out or the worry of hurting your seals by using ATF or something else.

Another thought; before spending money on a new cap/rotor/points, you might want to consider upgrading to an electronic distributor. Points can be a real pain in the **** to deal with.

Good luck!


.

DivinDriver

iTrader: (15)

Yep; on 79's and 80's (the "SA" models) the pump runs continuously when the key is on. Floats in the carb shut off fuel flow into the bowls when they are filled; and excess gas is just circulated back to the tank through the return line.

Congrats on scoring an SA. You're gonna learn a lot of interesting stuff around here.

Hades12

Like they said on a 79 the pump will run all the time, only the 83? up has the relay to only run when there is spark.

A 7 will not unflood by sitting.

I sometimes have luck using a battery charger with the jump feature, charge the batt and then use the 200 amp start, this will sometimes get a flooded one going.

Best bet is to change the plugs, Use the NGK or the Denso's The 79's come with denso's .

Clean the cap and rotor, poor spark will keep it from starting good. Clean the points, If it still has them.


Pull start it.




4K baby.

kcscott11

So i didnt check this... before working on it.... its my lunch break, i pulled the plugs, dried them off, cleaned them a bit and it started, but when i tried to let it idle it died. I called autozone, they said they couldnt get any plugs for it, called oreillys and they located ngk 4121's they have to come from houston so i wont have them till tomorrow, although the originals were denso's, they said that would be ok? anyhow i think new plugs is what the doctor called for. :-) thanks for the help. K.C.

Hades12

I have not seen the 4121's before.

Most of us use NGK Br8Eq14

My oreillys in GA kept them in stock.

4portgsl

When you said you tried to let it idle and it died, how long was the engine running when you tried this? A slightly flooded rotary will not idle cold... keep the revs around 3k for at least 5 minutes to get it cleared out and warmed up. If it idles after that, take it for a spin, get it fully warmed up then rev the **** out of it to clear some of the carbon out. That may get it going, but changing plugs, wires, points, and air and fuel filters is a really good idea anyways. Good Luck.

speedturn

iTrader: (1)

Don't run a cold rotary for only a minute and then shut it off. Carbon will build up and make the seals stick, and you will loose compression, and then it won't want to restart.

The Seafoam is for disolving the carbon buildup on the seals.

Swapping your ignition to a 1981 or later model will be a wise move; the 1979 points are not as reliable, and do not produce as hot a spark, as the later model electronic ignitions.

kcscott11

would i just need the electronic distributor and ignitors to convert to electronic? if so i will do so. The ngk 4121's are almost right. the little sleeve right past the threads is a bit shorter, and you cant put your wrench on it to get it more than hand snug because they sink into the sleeves on the engine... :-( gotta bring them back and see if my oreillys carries the right ones...

DivinDriver

iTrader: (15)

Use a thin-wall plug socket, instead of a wrench.

kcscott11

i was actually using a plug socket.... the damn thing wouldnt go in... i dont have any thinner plug sockets. Man, I was trying to change the plugs last night, and lost my damn key in the middle of it..... suckyness...

DivinDriver

iTrader: (15)

The NGK plugs are a better bet; you don't have that problem, with them.

kcscott11

yea i got the new plugs today, i still havent found the key, i guess ima have to call a lock smith, but then ill find the key as soon as i pay him to cut a key for me...

kcscott11

Got it started a lil bit ago, and decided to rev at 3k for a little bit, to burn carbon out. After a minute or so, it started smoking. It hasnt smoked before, so i let it go aobut 2 or 3 mins like this then killed it, not sure if its the carbon burning or what.... is it just the carbon or probably something worse?

Kentetsu

What color is the smoke? What does it smell like (oil, fuel, coolant)?

kcscott11

The smoke was gray. When i went back out and started it back up it didnt smoke. I am thinking it is raw fuel. I am going to clean the points today. I think i should most definitly get the electronic ignition.... i think thats alot of the problem

kcscott11

Well, i got to looking at the car today and discovered someone has already put an electronic distributor..... any ways to test and make sure its working right? The Car flooded very badly earlier, and I havent got it to start since, i have pulled the plugs and turned it over and such, but right now, i am scared to start it, there is gas in the exhaust and its dripping out from the hole where my exhaust leak is... I would hate to get some fire started underneath the car.... Im thinking my float is stuck in my carb or something.... not to sure really, but i know one time i start it and it runs great, the next time it runs like **** then dies and wont start for quite some time....

mortiky

usually the distributors are pretty reliable, and it is usually the ignitors that fail. as far as testing i would just use a spark tester and turn the crank to see if you get a spark. also if you are running the stock nikki carb, there are sight windows on the bowls so you can see if your floats are sticking.