17 years dry storage car?
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17 years dry storage car?
So I may have another rx7 in my sites. The car has bee stored in a dry garage for 17 years under a cover. Looks very clean low mileage.
What are the odds that the motor will actually be good? I know that it will require some mystery oil and patience, but is it at all possibly that the engine will be recoverable?
Car has around 40K miles on it and was well taken care of prior to being forgotten in the garage.
What are the odds that the motor will actually be good? I know that it will require some mystery oil and patience, but is it at all possibly that the engine will be recoverable?
Car has around 40K miles on it and was well taken care of prior to being forgotten in the garage.
#2
Rotary Freak
If it turns over [Is not seized ] you may be in luck . I got an old rx3 12a engine going that had been stored for 16 years under a tarporlan out in open yard.
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#5
Rotary Freak
[QUOTE=wrightbenz;11817257]Did you just start it up or use the mystery oil first?
Tipped some engine oil down carby [ about 50ml in each primery barrel ] opened throttle a few times to wash oil down in to engine and cranked over motor by hand a little then oiled again then started with key and car fires up
Tipped some engine oil down carby [ about 50ml in each primery barrel ] opened throttle a few times to wash oil down in to engine and cranked over motor by hand a little then oiled again then started with key and car fires up
#6
RX HVN
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I think the Mystery oil is more of a cleaner/preservative than a lube. And if you are dry-cranking an old engine then you want lube. So oil. But first, in case the seals, esp the apexes, are stuck (as in not springing out properly therefore not creating compression) I would overnite it with some Seafoam thru the carb first, then add a bit of oil for lube to spin it the next day. Obv no fuel or ignition at this point.
You will want to confirm oil is metering correctly out of the Oil Metering Pump (OMP) located on the front passenger-side of the fr cover once the engine IS running. And that the lines, which could be pretty brittle by now (!!) are connected and feeding oil.
Hopefully whoever stored it drained the tank and fuel system (which is tough to do on the SA cars since there is no drain plug on the tank!). Otherwise the run-up could be real short as the fuel filter (which you DID change, right? located underneath in front of rear driver's wheel) will plug up from tank scunge…
Guess it goes w/o saying new oil/filter...
'Luck!
Stu Aull
80GS
Alaska
You will want to confirm oil is metering correctly out of the Oil Metering Pump (OMP) located on the front passenger-side of the fr cover once the engine IS running. And that the lines, which could be pretty brittle by now (!!) are connected and feeding oil.
Hopefully whoever stored it drained the tank and fuel system (which is tough to do on the SA cars since there is no drain plug on the tank!). Otherwise the run-up could be real short as the fuel filter (which you DID change, right? located underneath in front of rear driver's wheel) will plug up from tank scunge…
Guess it goes w/o saying new oil/filter...
'Luck!
Stu Aull
80GS
Alaska
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I think the Mystery oil is more of a cleaner/preservative than a lube. And if you are dry-cranking an old engine then you want lube. So oil. But first, in case the seals, esp the apexes, are stuck (as in not springing out properly therefore not creating compression) I would overnite it with some Seafoam thru the carb first, then add a bit of oil for lube to spin it the next day. Obv no fuel or ignition at this point.
You will want to confirm oil is metering correctly out of the Oil Metering Pump (OMP) located on the front passenger-side of the fr cover once the engine IS running. And that the lines, which could be pretty brittle by now (!!) are connected and feeding oil.
Hopefully whoever stored it drained the tank and fuel system (which is tough to do on the SA cars since there is no drain plug on the tank!). Otherwise the run-up could be real short as the fuel filter (which you DID change, right? located underneath in front of rear driver's wheel) will plug up from tank scunge…
Guess it goes w/o saying new oil/filter...
'Luck!
Stu Aull
80GS
Alaska
You will want to confirm oil is metering correctly out of the Oil Metering Pump (OMP) located on the front passenger-side of the fr cover once the engine IS running. And that the lines, which could be pretty brittle by now (!!) are connected and feeding oil.
Hopefully whoever stored it drained the tank and fuel system (which is tough to do on the SA cars since there is no drain plug on the tank!). Otherwise the run-up could be real short as the fuel filter (which you DID change, right? located underneath in front of rear driver's wheel) will plug up from tank scunge…
Guess it goes w/o saying new oil/filter...
'Luck!
Stu Aull
80GS
Alaska
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Yes I will get some pics up soon. Great car look clean underneath no winters. Still has the black paint on the suspension parts. Should be a happy day when I get her back on the road.
I poured some oil down the primary's of the carb last night and rotated the engine a bit.
I am a little concerned about the apex seals since it sat for such a long time.
Should I add mystery oil and let it sit a few days before firing her up?
I poured some oil down the primary's of the carb last night and rotated the engine a bit.
I am a little concerned about the apex seals since it sat for such a long time.
Should I add mystery oil and let it sit a few days before firing her up?
#10
84SE-EGI helpy-helperton
My spare engine on the stand had MMO (about 1/4 cup) poured down each intake runner into the intake chamber about 10 years ago and I gave it a full, one-revolution spin by hand about 2x a month. It's been a chore, but the engine turns over smoothly and even by hand you get good 'pops' as the exhaus ports open on each chamber.
I would recommend MMO as a good de-carbon agent to help the engine choke up any hard carbon which may be in there, as the MMO is bascially petroleum distillates and ATF-like light oils which will penetrate the carbon and break it up.
If you can turn the engine over by hand, and you get good 'pops' out the exhaust and can feel compression - I'd give it a go. Good luck,
I would recommend MMO as a good de-carbon agent to help the engine choke up any hard carbon which may be in there, as the MMO is bascially petroleum distillates and ATF-like light oils which will penetrate the carbon and break it up.
If you can turn the engine over by hand, and you get good 'pops' out the exhaust and can feel compression - I'd give it a go. Good luck,
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I'm the original owner, the mileage is 258K. The car has been well maintained while I was driving it. It runs but I haven't been driving it the last few years. I've pulled the battery. It's been a San Diego car the entire time. I can give you the history on it.
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saw a guy that bought one for 100$ for the body...the original owner said it quit running one morning and he could never get it cranked again....the guy got a battery 5 gals of gas 1 qt of trans fluid cleaned he plugs turned it over a couple of times...blew the excess gas out put the 5 gallons of gas in it poured a little trans fluid in the carb cranked it up and drove it off...yep the original owner was pissed!!! our diagnosis he flooded it real bad!! was a good day indeed!!
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