I have a 13B 4 port streetport with a holley setup. What should I set the timing at for the most power? I have a timing light with the degree wheel. Thanks

 

lol when i set the timing on my el rustino i did it by sound, when the car started running best at idle, i left it, that worked for the pissed-on, not sure about a rotary haha, i usually just put my distributor where the bolt etched into the lock thingy hahahaha

 

I use 20L/10T above 4K rpm

 

Try this:
L: 0°
T: 10° ATC
Set the timing at idle, with the vacuum advance disconnected.

 

LT split of 10º, as others here have said. Then, depending on whether it's a 12A or GSL-SE dizzy, I set the total advance above 4k to whatever it wants. 20º for a 12A or 24 or so degrees for a GSL-SE dizzy while maintaining 0º L at idle.

No vacuum advance (never had it, never will).

 

Hey cosmicbang, which character are you using for your degrees? I use alt+0186

 

LOL... I've been thinking for about a month that I should post about the same question. I know no ones's asked cuz I've been monitoring the site but I figured I do a quick search before making a thread just in case it dug up a good old thread. Low and behold here it is new today. Go figure.

Anyways, the FSM shows 15 LT split and 5 advance on the lead on idle. But it doesn't say anything about disconnecting the vacuum advance. Is there a reason why you'd retard the timing at idle?

Also, how do you adjust the advance at 4000 rpm without changing the idle timing? Can the centrifugal advance be adjusted?

 

I just used the ASCII decimal sent from the keyboard which looks the same in the "advanced editor", but the HTML escape seq. is probably preferable in general. 0xB0 (decimal 176) is the degree sign and 0xBA (decimal 186) is the masculine ordinal indicator.
Thus:

10° 0xB0 &#176 Degree sign
10º 0xBA &#186 Ordinal

 

The original question related to a 13B 4-port streetport with Holley carb. The numbers I quoted above (L: 0° T: 10° ATC) came directly from Racing Beat for that particular application. Other engines, porting, and induction may have different timing settings. I suggest use whatever works best for you, then retard both back 1° or 2° for safety. Be careful especially when advancing the trailing.

 

Ah, I was close using 0186. Heh, anything looks better than an asterisk for degrees, as lots of people tend to do for some reason. I'll have to remember to use 0176 from now on. Thanks.

 

Ok I set it at 4000 rpm. but how do i know the degrees? What can i set my timing light wheel to do this? Thanks

 

Gonzz, I bet it would put out more power @ 25*L total advance measured above 4krpms. Best thing is to get the Racing Beat front pulley but you can also measure and mark stock pulley with a protractor or compass. There's threads on the 1st gen forum to do that. How is my old radiator doing?

Brad

 

That's the Paul Yaw way. An easier way is to take off the pulley by removing the four 10mm bolts and wrap a metric cloth tape measure around the pulley and mark it every 10°. Mazda sized the pulley to where 1°=1mm. Try it!

 

Drivefast: radiator is great.. you coming to vegas again? My 79 is also done

 

Marked my pulley today and set timing at 20L and 10T. Will see how it does...

 

Just got back taking the 7 out and I can say the car is totally different driving it now. Alot smoother through the rpm's, more power. Really happay with this. Thanks guys for the help...

 

Excellent!