Zenobia K'ael

Hi guys I'm trying to figure out the future of my beloved fb. Right now I'm 100% stock.

I'm trying to figure out what's the most I can get out of a 13b n/a while still making it relatively streetable. And which 13b would I need to do. That. (The renisis is out. I don't want to deal with that ecu nightmare)

What's the most I can get with a street port and good intake/exhuast? Is 200hp possible?

I'm weighing this versus a turbo ii s5. Since that is 200hp but with turbolag. The reason I'm interested in this vs na is the upgradability if I wanted more

And lastly. Where are you guys finding your motors? :/ And how much are you spending on them? And hoe much would each option cost approximately? I had a guy with a gsl see engine lined up but he ghosted me. Good ole Craigslist.

Thanks for the help

Richard Miller

Oh boy. In leu of yelling "search" I will walk you through how I came to my conclusion. I to was fighting the same delimma. exactly the same. You see, the rule of thumb has been the driveline should be able to handle up to 300 hp, based on non drag applications. One thread I started years back was "what is the perfect power for the FB chassis" or something like that. Seems that 100hp gets the job done, 300 is barely drivable and is a handful, lots of stress. and 200 hits the sweet spot. So 200 hp at the wheels seems to get you into a mid 6 second 0-60 and perhaps mid 13s in the quarter. The better torque from a turbo making the same 200hp would be quicker, but marginally so for non competitive driving. At this point in time in the SA/FB life cycle, you drive it because it brings joy to you. years back a turbo FB would crush almost anything. with 700hp cars on the road and what's being produced today, We cannot compete. Build up a reliable naturally aspirated rotary. get some fuel injection Even if you keep the 12a you could add this DCOE Throttle body https://foxinjection.com/collections...hrottle-bodies and keep it looking real old school. Engine parts and becoming rare and a apex seal rolling out under boost is a nightmare situation. I have gone with a street port (engine went in yesterday). just things to consider.

Zenobia K'ael

Hmm. So what you're saying is get a 20b, turbo it
And remind kids why fb stands for f****** boss? :P

Still those Mid 6 sounds about where I want to be. And short of bridge porting it doesn't seem possible to get the 200whp to do that? So it's turbo if I want that time range. The reasons I was aiming for 200hp was based on a reply about asking what the drivetrain can take. Which is about 250hp. It's the rpms that kill the tranny.

Also thanks for not saying search. I've combed over the threads I could find alot. Most of them are super old and dead links. :/

diabolical1

iTrader: (3)

Why not just get a Turbo block, streetport it and run it NA? If it satisfies you, great. If it doesn't, then do what it was designed to do, and turbocharge it. Either way, you=win.

j9fd3s

iTrader: (3)

best option right now, is to just buy a new FD engine from Mazda, and either run it turbo or NA. NA is about 180hp, and turbo you can have as much as you want

Zenobia K'ael

Damn, sounds nice. How much are they and where are they? I couldn't find them with a Google search. And feebay prices are between 3-4k

chuyler1

iTrader: (1)

You really need to decide what your end goal is for using the vehicle and don't cheat yourself. Let's just assume you are comparing 200hp N/A with a streetport or Bridgeport vs 200hp from a non ported turbo.

Street port N/A is great for canyon runs, track days, and any sort of driving where you can plant the throttle and tachometer for extended periods. It creates two different cars. Below 6,000 RPM you will regret porting and changing everything as the car is going to just feel slow and loud. Above 6,000 is where all the smiles are.

Turbo builds are great for cruising around town and goosing the throttle when you want a little more getup without necessarily having to downshift 2 gears to make things happen. You're going to make 200hp over a larger power band that you can enjoy without revving the **** out of the motor, but it's also going to add a little more cost and complexity.

j9fd3s

iTrader: (3)

Mazda will sell you a brand new engine for under 5k, and then you put whatever intake/header/turbo you want on it

DreamInRotary

iTrader: (49)

NA you'll be able to be simple and effective, while remaining reliable and fun.
Turbo will add up faster than an exponential curve and leave you wondering where all the money went while you keep adding parts to maybe get it going.

FB's, for newer guys, would be best suited for a good NA build before considering a turbo rotary IMO.

Zenobia K'ael

ok, so after much deliberation and many distractions im back to figuring this out.

whats the most Whp i can expect to get from a streetport s5? it seems like 160 with proper mods is the max? i know they used high compression rotors, would that be a benefit for na? i would think so.

whats the best way for me to achieve that 200 NA whp dream? is it possible? (without bridgeport porting)

my real goal here is mid 13s on the 1/4 mile. im looking into some weight reduction but i LIKE my interior. lol.

WANKfactor

iTrader: (1)

Are you driving the car at the moment?
What's most imortant to you, a certain power figure or e/t? Or the warm fuzzies you get from driving a well sorted car?
The 1st gen rx7's are a proper driver's car that are best enjoyed stock or near stock.
This is coming from someone who spent a lot of money and effort to end up with 450rwhp that cant be truly unleashed on public roads along with all the other little niggles and gripes that come with a fairly aggressive modified car.
If i could do it again it would be as simple as a strong street port, on a near stock suspension.
If you really want 200hp, just do the t2 swap.
On top of the usual engine build you would do with n/a you will need swirl pot, lift and pressure pumps, exhaust(which you would do n/a anyway). You can get away with a stock or modified s5 turbo, s4/5 radiator intercooler and ecu. Will need front plate and sump off a gslse or similar. Easy 250 on a stock s4/5 motor with light breathing mods and a reflash and no lag.
If you want more its a bit like how long is a piece of string.
Best bet is rock up to your local rotary tuner/mechanic/shop/guru and tell them you have x amount of dollars and have a chat with them to find out if you can afford it.
Unless you can do it all yourself and are well connected and able to source good parts then it will probably be cheaper to get them to do it.

chuyler1

iTrader: (1)

If you're not considering bridge porting, then you should just go turbo. As I explained above, high power from N/A comes with RPMs and it will sacrifice the lower rev range for street driving. To hit your 1/4 mile target you'll be messing with gear ratios so you can keep the motor within it's power band well north of 6,000 RPM. Below that RPM the car is going to accelerate slower than your average commuter car. Meanwhile, a turbo build will hit your power and 1/4 mile numbers without hassle, without gear ratio changes, and without sacrificing every day drivability.