13B-REW for cheap...
12-12-06, 02:58 PM
#1
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13B-REW for cheap...
Just browsing the internet and http://fc3spro.com/TECH/SWAP/FD3S/rew.html website claims you can pick up a 13B-REW for $1,500 - $2,500ish. Are they seriously this cheap? i was under the impression that there hard to find and they were expensive as hell. This is the best engine for lots of HP potential correct? The only other engine that comes to mind is a 13B-DEI. I searched "13B-REW" but got crap results....
Also whats the difference between the cosmo version and the FD... Let me put it this way, which would be best for going in the FB.
Also whats the difference between the cosmo version and the FD... Let me put it this way, which would be best for going in the FB.
Last edited by Itsdaveonline; 12-12-06 at 03:04 PM.
12-12-06, 03:45 PM
#5
better in what way?
there is no "better" in terms of swapping to an FB. the RE has bigger ports and, arguably, a stronger rear plate (dowel area), but the exhausts suck! to get the most out of it, it still requires REW rotor housings, or at least serious porting - either way, it's pronounced rebuild. don't do it and it's still just a turbo 13B swap that you could have done with a less expensive and easier-to-source S5 13B-T or -REW. the details (minute differences) between the turbo 13Bs don't matter for people that aren't going to maximize the potential of the engine. oh and quoting stock HP numbers is a moot point, too, because the chances that you're going to do the swap and keep the engine running in stock trim is slim to none! the twins will be tossed, the stock ECU will tossed and we're left with a turbo 13B that has to be tuned with the turbo of your choice and a standalone.
there is no "better" in terms of swapping to an FB. the RE has bigger ports and, arguably, a stronger rear plate (dowel area), but the exhausts suck! to get the most out of it, it still requires REW rotor housings, or at least serious porting - either way, it's pronounced rebuild. don't do it and it's still just a turbo 13B swap that you could have done with a less expensive and easier-to-source S5 13B-T or -REW. the details (minute differences) between the turbo 13Bs don't matter for people that aren't going to maximize the potential of the engine. oh and quoting stock HP numbers is a moot point, too, because the chances that you're going to do the swap and keep the engine running in stock trim is slim to none! the twins will be tossed, the stock ECU will tossed and we're left with a turbo 13B that has to be tuned with the turbo of your choice and a standalone.
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12-12-06, 04:30 PM
#8
no, maybe i should have clarified ...it wasn't personal attack against you, MattG. i apologize if that's how i came off. it's just that i see questions like this all the time and most times i'm able to just leave and look at another thread without saying anything, but other times ... just have to comment.
your opinion is fine. you're entitled, just like i am. however, people try to make the differences between engines out to be some sort of relevant issue to the average joe when they are not. if you successfully put any turbo 13B in a Gen I and you're going to have a fast car - faster than most people can honestly handle. my second contention is the seeming lack of ability to tell the difference between potential and actual. why go through the trouble of getting a more rare, more expensive engine if you're not going to maximize it. i mean, for guys with money (and know-how) it's fine, but then again, they're not the ones asking these questions.
it's always the ones that get some half-dead T-78 off of E-Bay, a half-baked fuel pump with Kanji on the box and then plan to make 5-meeelion HP with a stock ECU and E-manage because they say a Haltech is too expensive. i just don't get it.
if you want to take on a turbo 13B swap, that's fine. go for it! but why go through the hassle (bringing others with you) to find an REW or an RE when you can do the same thing with a 13B-T. people need to think in terms of systems, not hardware. that's all i'm saying
okay, rant over ... sorry.
12-12-06, 05:51 PM
#9
Junior Member
I have a cosmo 13B in my RX-7.
They have bigger ports than a FD engine and more meat around the ports so you can port the **** out of them if you want.
They have fifferent inlet manifolds which dont flow quite as much as a FD engine i believe but flow alot better than a FC engine.
They are also the best looking inlet manifolds ever made.
They are an easy fit into an FB, doubt the twin turbos would fit but they are **** anyway. You have to put a 12A turbo timing chest on it with the oil drain if you want to turbo it again so you can do that when you need to change the sump and pick up. I would change the water pump housing to that of a series 4/5 turbo 13B because the cosmo have an ugly shitty twin thermostat contraption going on. Id also ditch the stock ecu and get a Microtech or something like that. Im running a LTX-8 on mine.
Here are some almost finsihed pics of mine.
Mine is set up as an Atmo at the momenet, just bought a turbo set up which should be here in a week or so. Still would make great power as NA.
They have bigger ports than a FD engine and more meat around the ports so you can port the **** out of them if you want.
They have fifferent inlet manifolds which dont flow quite as much as a FD engine i believe but flow alot better than a FC engine.
They are also the best looking inlet manifolds ever made.
They are an easy fit into an FB, doubt the twin turbos would fit but they are **** anyway. You have to put a 12A turbo timing chest on it with the oil drain if you want to turbo it again so you can do that when you need to change the sump and pick up. I would change the water pump housing to that of a series 4/5 turbo 13B because the cosmo have an ugly shitty twin thermostat contraption going on. Id also ditch the stock ecu and get a Microtech or something like that. Im running a LTX-8 on mine.
Here are some almost finsihed pics of mine.
Mine is set up as an Atmo at the momenet, just bought a turbo set up which should be here in a week or so. Still would make great power as NA.
12-12-06, 05:59 PM
#10
Originally Posted by Maztrix
I have a cosmo 13B in my RX-7.
They have bigger ports than a FD engine and more meat around the ports so you can port the **** out of them if you want.
They have fifferent inlet manifolds which dont flow quite as much as a FD engine i believe but flow alot better than a FC engine.
They are also the best looking inlet manifolds ever made.
They are an easy fit into an FB, doubt the twin turbos would fit but they are **** anyway. You have to put a 12A turbo timing chest on it with the oil drain if you want to turbo it again so you can do that when you need to change the sump and pick up. I would change the water pump housing to that of a series 4/5 turbo 13B because the cosmo have an ugly shitty twin thermostat contraption going on. Id also ditch the stock ecu and get a Microtech or something like that. Im running a LTX-8 on mine.
Here are some almost finsihed pics of mine.
Mine is set up as an Atmo at the momenet, just bought a turbo set up which should be here in a week or so. Still would make great power as NA.
They have bigger ports than a FD engine and more meat around the ports so you can port the **** out of them if you want.
They have fifferent inlet manifolds which dont flow quite as much as a FD engine i believe but flow alot better than a FC engine.
They are also the best looking inlet manifolds ever made.
They are an easy fit into an FB, doubt the twin turbos would fit but they are **** anyway. You have to put a 12A turbo timing chest on it with the oil drain if you want to turbo it again so you can do that when you need to change the sump and pick up. I would change the water pump housing to that of a series 4/5 turbo 13B because the cosmo have an ugly shitty twin thermostat contraption going on. Id also ditch the stock ecu and get a Microtech or something like that. Im running a LTX-8 on mine.
Here are some almost finsihed pics of mine.
Mine is set up as an Atmo at the momenet, just bought a turbo set up which should be here in a week or so. Still would make great power as NA.
But what's the brake booster doing on the wrong side of the bay?
12-12-06, 08:06 PM
#11
FB+FC=F-ME
Originally Posted by diabolical1
if you successfully put any turbo 13B in a Gen I and you're going to have a fast car - faster than most people can honestly handle. my second contention is the seeming lack of ability to tell the difference between potential and actual. why go through the trouble of getting a more rare, more expensive engine if you're not going to maximize it. i mean, for guys with money (and know-how) it's fine, but then again, they're not the ones asking these questions.
it's always the ones that get some half-dead T-78 off of E-Bay, a half-baked fuel pump with Kanji on the box and then plan to make 5-meeelion HP with a stock ECU and E-manage because they say a Haltech is too expensive. i just don't get it.
if you want to take on a turbo 13B swap, that's fine. go for it! but why go through the hassle (bringing others with you) to find an REW or an RE when you can do the same thing with a 13B-T. people need to think in terms of systems, not hardware. that's all i'm saying
okay, rant over ... sorry.
it's always the ones that get some half-dead T-78 off of E-Bay, a half-baked fuel pump with Kanji on the box and then plan to make 5-meeelion HP with a stock ECU and E-manage because they say a Haltech is too expensive. i just don't get it.
if you want to take on a turbo 13B swap, that's fine. go for it! but why go through the hassle (bringing others with you) to find an REW or an RE when you can do the same thing with a 13B-T. people need to think in terms of systems, not hardware. that's all i'm saying
okay, rant over ... sorry.
12-12-06, 09:49 PM
#13
Originally Posted by RollinRock
\ he's an aussie i.e his car might be right hand drive!
Originally Posted by rx7doctor
That is one sweet engine bay But what's the brake booster doing on the wrong side of the bay?
But what's the brake booster doing on the wrong side of the bay? at the end. 
12-12-06, 11:59 PM
#15
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Originally Posted by ChunkyMonkey
12-13-06, 10:10 AM
#17
NorCal 7's Co-founder
$1500-$2500 for an REW? No thanks. They can be found all day long for $500-$700 with low compression or a bad coolant seal. Then just get it and rebuild it. You'll still come out under $2000 and you'll have a freshly built motor.
But if I were doing that swap I'd choose the 13B-RE. The intake manifolds on that motor flow better than the REW IIRC and the port work on the intake side is also larger. Porting out the rotor housings isn't that much work either since you'll have the motor apart.
IMHO the most important thing is this. No matter what!! When you get a used engine, ESPECIALLY one from Japan, just go ahead and rebuild it right off the bat. That way you don't get any nasty surprises a week into driving the car you just spent all the time on. Just my .02.
Zach
But if I were doing that swap I'd choose the 13B-RE. The intake manifolds on that motor flow better than the REW IIRC and the port work on the intake side is also larger. Porting out the rotor housings isn't that much work either since you'll have the motor apart.
IMHO the most important thing is this. No matter what!! When you get a used engine, ESPECIALLY one from Japan, just go ahead and rebuild it right off the bat. That way you don't get any nasty surprises a week into driving the car you just spent all the time on. Just my .02.
Zach
12-14-06, 12:43 AM
#20
it's a roulette game with ANY used engine. these are high-powered engines, which means there are going to be many people that care for them religiously and even more that beat the **** out of them - no matter which country or continent they are. you will very rarely know who drove the engine you're buying.
12-14-06, 05:35 AM
#23
Savanna Rx-7
cause it is a crapshoot
Originally Posted by MattG
Boosted RX, Why do you say Especially one from japan? Is it like Russian Roulete when buying a used j-spec engine?
I have explained this to several members before. 60,000 Km engines no longer exist over here. Edit they do but extrememly rare
they used to but even then they would be seriously carbon fouled from all of the inner city driving that living here in Japan entails.
if you want a full explanation email me, its faster than me typing here on the forum....
kenn
12-14-06, 12:22 PM
#24
NorCal 7's Co-founder
Originally Posted by kenn_chan
I have explained this to several members before. 60,000 Km engines no longer exist over here. Edit they do but extrememly rare
they used to but even then they would be seriously carbon fouled from all of the inner city driving that living here in Japan entails.
if you want a full explanation email me, its faster than me typing here on the forum....
kenn
they used to but even then they would be seriously carbon fouled from all of the inner city driving that living here in Japan entails.
if you want a full explanation email me, its faster than me typing here on the forum....
kenn
Riceburner, you're talking apples and oranges here. While 20B's can be had for a good price, the work involved to get it in a 1st, 2nd, or 3rd gen costs a lot of money. Even for people like me who do most all of their own work, the wiring harness and ECU needed is expensive. It is a whole different world compared to putting an RE or REW into that same car.
