rxKaffee

My bro just installed a Holley 600 racing beat prepped carb onto his gsl-se. Using a mallory 4070m for the fuel pump. not getting any fuel to the carb. currently using the original fuel injection fuel filter, would this be a problem? the pump is sucking fuel in, and we've verified that there's output prior to the fuel filter. what type of filter would you recomend for this application? teh owner should be on in a bit to clarify anything I botched in communications

shane.trammell

who are you and how did "we" verify that there is output when matt and i were the only ones there? we never verified that there is output after the pump, and dont really know if its sucking it in. i know there is fuel at the pump but dont know if its getting sucked in.


if youre not talking about matts car then its very coincidental that you are in the same area as us and installing the same kit and having the same problems

gerbraldy

ummm, maybe you guys had the lines crossed, switch the fuel in/fuel out lines and see what it does.

gsl-se addict

iTrader: (3)

There are a couple things to check besides getting the lines in the right spot.

1. The GSL-SE uses a switch insided the AFM to keep the fuel pump running after the engine starts. No AFM = No Gas.

2. Like the other '84/'85 cars, the pump doesn't run with the try just turned to 'on'. The engine needs to be cranking or running.

3. Use a multimeter to verify power to the pump. If you have power, then you need to see if you are getting flow from the pump. The EFI filter shouldn't cause a problem unless clogged.

Easiest way to get around this is to put a jumper wire across the two terminals in the connector with the rubber boot that is next to the AFM. If you still have the GSL-SE wire harness/ECU installed, this will cause the fuel pump to run whenever the key is in the 'on' position (doesn't need to be running). This connector is normally used so that one could check fuel pressure or injector leaking without the engine actually running. If that works, look into bypassing the fuel pump relay instead of relying on that jumper wire. There are some threads on here about doing that.

Kent

shane.trammell

that connector was missing but after examining my GSLSE we found the wires that had been in that connector. the strange thing was that the two wires were crimped into the same end of a butt connector, and the other end had a single wire that was grounded to the body. to jump the wires i just cut the wire that was grounded so now they are connected just like you said, and just like the RB kit instructions said.

why would those wires be grounded like that?

there was no power, well only like .5 volts, at the pump with the key in the on position. we never tried to crank it and see if there was power bc i thought the pump got power when you turned it to on.

gsl-se addict

iTrader: (3)

I am not sure why they would be grounded. I'll look up the wire colors to make sure that you got the right ones. If you still have the AFM with connection, you could plug it in and push the door open to get the same effect. I have seen others run into the same issue. Usually, they will crank it. It starts then dies right away since the pump runs while cranking, but there is no AFM or flow through the AFM to keep it running. I'll be right back with the wire colors.

Kent

EDIT: Looks like they are BrY (Brown w/ yellow stripe) and B (black). The second wire might be R (red) (the .pdf isn't real clear, but I am pretty sure it is black). What color is the third wire? So the two wires come together and then get grounded? If that is the case, cut the ground and see if that takes care of the problem.

shane.trammell

i already cut the ground and its not working. i checked to make sure we had the right wires on MY gslse, the wires that we did were black and orange with yellow, or red with yellow.

what 3rd wire are you talking about? the previous owner had gotten rid of the yellow connector that was supposed to be there, connected the 2 wires, and then grounded them.

i thought about plugging the AFM back in to get it running, will try that if its the last resort.

shane.trammell

oh, are you sure that the stock filter will be ok in there?

gsl-se addict

iTrader: (3)

I meant where it was connected to ground. It should be brown and yellow. The colors are the same for all SEs. Maybe the wire is just discolored. I tried to check the wiring diagrams for a RY in that area. I will check the wire colors on mine too be sure that the wiring diagram is correct.

The EFI filter shouldn't be a problem, but go ahead and disconnect it and put a carb one in there just to eliminate it as a possibility.

shane.trammell

the wires were verified by finding the connector described in the RB intructions on MY gslse and then finding the wires minus the connector (bc it had been cut off) the on the car we are working on

fcrotornut

[QUOTE=gsl-se addict]There are a couple things to check besides getting the lines in the right spot.

1. The GSL-SE uses a switch insided the AFM to keep the fuel pump running after the engine starts. No AFM = No Gas.

- We are going to do a direct wire from the battrty to a cutoff switch.
will that take care of that problem?

2. Like the other '84/'85 cars, the pump doesn't run with the try just turned to 'on'. The engine needs to be cranking or running.

-That was my gut feeling.

hopefully we will get this figured out tonight

thanks all goes to trammell, for somone with no schoolign or mechanical background, he is quite impressive.

gsl-se addict

iTrader: (3)

Does the car still have the GSL-SE ECU with wiring, etc.? All the fusible links intact? Check the 20 amp engine fuse in the car as well.

Connecting those two wires together should allow the pump to run whenever the key is 'on'. You shouldn't need to run a connection to the battery. If you do run a new connection, use a relay so the ignition switch doesn't have to carry the load. So you would have a heavy wire coming into the relay then going to the pump + and a smaller wire that goes from a switched ignition source to energize the relay. Of course fuse the wires as well (probably 15 or 20 amp for the pump). Make sure the - of the pump goes to a good ground.

Once we know we have power, we can take it from there if it still isn't getting fuel to the carb. Good luck.

Kent

shane.trammell

still has factory ecu and fusible links

84stock

iTrader: (5)

When mine was converted to carb the shop had to wire up power to the fuel pump. With no efi, the computer will no activate the pump. Also, you'll need a return style fuel pressure regulator. Don't cheap out here, I finall went with a barry Grant model to solve loss of fuel pressure at higher rpm.