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13B 6 Port - Designed for carb or FI? (pics)

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Old 09-21-08, 10:26 PM
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Originally Posted by Starfox07
What does locking the dizzy mean, and what does it do? Just curious.
the short version, keeps the timing from advancing= keeps your motor from blowing up nuff said
Old 09-21-08, 10:37 PM
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Originally Posted by 680RWHP12A
the short version, keeps the timing from advancing= keeps your motor from blowing up nuff said
Ah ok, that makes sense. So are these dizzy's mechanical or vacuum advance or what?
Old 09-21-08, 10:38 PM
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Originally Posted by Starfox07
Ah ok, that makes sense. So are these dizzy's mechanical or vacuum advance or what?
mechanical
Old 09-21-08, 10:42 PM
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Originally Posted by 680RWHP12A
mechanical
Does that go for my 13b as well?
Old 09-21-08, 10:47 PM
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Originally Posted by Starfox07
Does that go for my 13b as well?
any rotary with a dizzy
Old 09-21-08, 10:57 PM
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Robert,

What he is referring to is the air bleeds.
http://mazdatrix.com/c-6.htm



Note: Air bleeds are the little plastic diffusers that go in the hole under the injector. 84-88 non turbos use a one piece bleed, while 86-88 turbo and all 89-92 use a two piece bleed (Top & Bottom). These pieces almost always break when removed from the engine. Air bleeds are supplied with their O-rings installed.




Originally Posted by 680RWHP12A
i rest my case
there is no such thing as injector perches, there is no brass thing that sits down in the hole
and the fact you were unaware SE's disnt come with secondary injectors make any of your information invalid for this thread
Old 09-22-08, 12:29 AM
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Originally Posted by Rx-7Doctor
Robert,

What he is referring to is the air bleeds.
http://mazdatrix.com/c-6.htm



Note: Air bleeds are the little plastic diffusers that go in the hole under the injector. 84-88 non turbos use a one piece bleed, while 86-88 turbo and all 89-92 use a two piece bleed (Top & Bottom). These pieces almost always break when removed from the engine. Air bleeds are supplied with their O-rings installed.



thanks doc. those are not brass, ther are made of a brittle plastic, thats why they break easily

Last edited by 680RWHP12A; 09-22-08 at 12:30 AM. Reason: eating so much cheese i can barely type!
Old 09-22-08, 12:32 AM
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You are correct sir.

Thanks for helping out the guys in the 1st gen section with their Turbo questions, very much appreciated.



Originally Posted by 680RWHP12A
thanks doc. those are not brass, ther are made of a brittle plastic, thats why they break easily
Old 09-22-08, 12:35 AM
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Oh yes, thanks for your help. Very much appreciated
Old 09-22-08, 12:36 AM
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Originally Posted by Cbz
Oh yes, thanks for your help. Very much appreciated
im done helping you
Old 09-22-08, 12:39 AM
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Originally Posted by 680RWHP12A
im done helping you
That's okay, there's way more then enough people just as knowledgeable around that are more then happy to help and already are.
Old 09-22-08, 01:07 PM
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Originally Posted by 680RWHP12A
yup, you got most of it. the only thing your missing is a EFI style hi-pressure fuel pump(ie msd , walbro, or bosch will all work fine) and a boost refrence style fuel pressure regulator to go with it (ie mallory#4309) and a carb hat, i have those in stock
My buddy is selling a stock s5 turbo and manifold for pretty cheap. I'll probably get it rebuilt when I got the money. Would this work with my setup pretty good or no? I wouldn't be able to run a external wastegate correct? How much more power would I be making than I already am? I want to get around 250 rwhp, but I'll be happy with 250 crank.
Old 09-22-08, 01:48 PM
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Originally Posted by 680RWHP12A
i rest my case
there is no such thing as injector perches, there is no brass thing that sits down in the hole
and the fact you were unaware SE's disnt come with secondary injectors make any of your information invalid for this thread
I meant they were brass in color.
Old 09-22-08, 03:37 PM
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Originally Posted by twinkletoes
My buddy is selling a stock s5 turbo and manifold for pretty cheap. I'll probably get it rebuilt when I got the money. Would this work with my setup pretty good or no? I wouldn't be able to run a external wastegate correct? How much more power would I be making than I already am? I want to get around 250 rwhp, but I'll be happy with 250 crank.

that turbo will work fine for up to about 240~250 ish rwhp. the s5 turbo uses an internal wastegate so you wont need an external type wategate.
i dont know how much power your currently making so you can gustimate
Old 09-22-08, 04:26 PM
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Random question that does relate, as twinkletoes said he was going to get his turbo rebuilt when he has the money.

How much ~ does it cost to get a turbo rebuilt. Ive been told its like 7-800 dollars. Is this true?
Old 09-22-08, 05:31 PM
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Originally Posted by djessence
Random question that does relate, as twinkletoes said he was going to get his turbo rebuilt when he has the money.

How much ~ does it cost to get a turbo rebuilt. Ive been told its like 7-800 dollars. Is this true?

no way!, $700.00 would get you a full blown hybrid upgrade
a standard rebuild for most turbos is approx. $300.00~350.00 range, GRANTED YOU SEND A USEABLE CORE
some people send junk thats had apex seals go through the turbine, or oil starvation has occoured,and want to know if a simple rebuild will take care of it
Old 09-22-08, 06:45 PM
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Originally Posted by 680RWHP12A
that turbo will work fine for up to about 240~250 ish rwhp. the s5 turbo uses an internal wastegate so you wont need an external type wategate.
i dont know how much power your currently making so you can gustimate

Thanks Robert . and ya, I wouldn't pay that much for a turbo rebuild, i'd get a hybrid turbo from rotaryshack if he wanted to rebuild it for that.
Old 09-25-08, 05:58 AM
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Turbo rebuild kits can be found online for a little over 100 bucks. Fun part is getting the rotating assembly balanced, not the usual DIY project.
Old 09-25-08, 10:33 PM
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Originally Posted by trochoid
Turbo rebuild kits can be found online for a little over 100 bucks. Fun part is getting the rotating assembly balanced, not the usual DIY project.
the rotating assy goes back together only 2 ways bc of the way that the end of the that the shaft is designed, so if you mark it, it should gl back together the same.
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