12at swap info
#1
it WILL run
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12at swap info
Im looking into getting a jspec 12a turbo since my motor is shot and the new motor is cheaper than me rebuilding my old one (bad rotor houseing)
what needs to be done to accomidate the 12at
I know the mounts are the same and my tranny will bolt fine.
just makeing sure i dont forget anything
im sure youll know 680rwhp
BTW its a base model 82
EDIT: I might not be back to read this today,
what needs to be done to accomidate the 12at
I know the mounts are the same and my tranny will bolt fine.
just makeing sure i dont forget anything
im sure youll know 680rwhp
BTW its a base model 82
EDIT: I might not be back to read this today,
#4
Seven Is Coming
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The turbo engine is EFI. Youll have to try and get the computer as well, or get an aftermarket computer. You could also slap a carb on it, then make it blow through, but from what I hear, its not really worth it. The ports are smaller and the turbo is kinda undersized. If you dont really care about that stuff, the engine is still good for I think like 160 fwhp.
~T.J.
~T.J.
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thanks for the info
the ports are small I know
but thats what die grinders are for
since most of my engine is trash
if wosrse come to worse i can use my rotors,intake, exuast and just use it for cheap houseings
BTW im useing corksport
the ports are small I know
but thats what die grinders are for
since most of my engine is trash
if wosrse come to worse i can use my rotors,intake, exuast and just use it for cheap houseings
BTW im useing corksport
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#8
Seven Is Coming
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Originally posted by wwilliam54
thanks for the info
the ports are small I know
but thats what die grinders are for
since most of my engine is trash
if wosrse come to worse i can use my rotors,intake, exuast and just use it for cheap houseings
BTW im useing corksport
thanks for the info
the ports are small I know
but thats what die grinders are for
since most of my engine is trash
if wosrse come to worse i can use my rotors,intake, exuast and just use it for cheap houseings
BTW im useing corksport
If thats really the way you wanna go, why would you use your rotors, intake, exhaust etc and then pay $800-$1000 just for USED housings from the 12AT? NEW Mazda housings are like $350 each...So for $700 you could have two brand new 12A housings.
If you just want to have a "true" 12AT engine, I personally would buy one from somewhere, get an aftermarket computer (or stock computer), and make it work. No rebuild. Theyre low mileage anyway, and usually run.
If you want the 12AT engine for the low compression rotors and the dizzy, this is what I would do. Strip it down to the block, get a bigger turbo, front mount IC, intake (carb or EFI, depends on how much money you have), and call it good.
If you wanted true hardcore ish under your hood, tear the thing apart, port it, rebuild it like new, throw it together with a bigger turbo, FMIC, EFI, aftermarket computer, coil packs, etc. Have it all tuned from your laptop, and have fun .
~T.J.
Last edited by RotorMotorDriver; 02-17-03 at 07:04 PM.
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In stockform the 12at produces about 135-140 hp at the flywheel, about equal to the stock 13b.
Very, very few are low mileage, most available are from 1983 a twenty year old engine. Any attempt to get serious power will result in a blow-up. Remember boost is only 6lbs.
Assuming a perfect engine them a new fuel system is needed to get the higher presser of an efi input, plus a new ecu, and upgraded turbo. The boost will be much higer but so will be the input temperature. The only solution is adding a new intercooler and manifold. The exhast system now becomes a bottleneck so a 'turbo' set-up is necessary. With the higher boost you can get away with the stock porting until about 200 hp at the flywheel. Increasing the port size and power may require a dif overhaul to handle it. By then an electric fan to handle the extra heat is desireable.
Very, very few are low mileage, most available are from 1983 a twenty year old engine. Any attempt to get serious power will result in a blow-up. Remember boost is only 6lbs.
Assuming a perfect engine them a new fuel system is needed to get the higher presser of an efi input, plus a new ecu, and upgraded turbo. The boost will be much higer but so will be the input temperature. The only solution is adding a new intercooler and manifold. The exhast system now becomes a bottleneck so a 'turbo' set-up is necessary. With the higher boost you can get away with the stock porting until about 200 hp at the flywheel. Increasing the port size and power may require a dif overhaul to handle it. By then an electric fan to handle the extra heat is desireable.
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Originally posted by RotorMotorDriver
Basically, it seems that it would be more cost efficient to just rebuild your 12A if youre trying to save money .
~T.J.
Basically, it seems that it would be more cost efficient to just rebuild your 12A if youre trying to save money .
~T.J.
ill take your advice
ill make a dynamic chamber for my carb and get a new fuel pump and regualtor
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I just swapped my 12a for a 12at. I pulled all the EFI crap and stuck a modified Nikki carb on there (curtosy of Rotary Shack). Blow thorugh Nikkis are easier to set up, and in my opionion are better then a EFi set up, not to mention cheaper. I'll get some pics as soon as it is up and running. Youl also need a Malory fuel presure regulator, and a new fuel pump. Other then that, nothing else is needed.
Peace
Peace
#15
Born 2 Brap
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Originally posted by Turbo12A
I just swapped my 12a for a 12at. I pulled all the EFI crap and stuck a modified Nikki carb on there (curtosy of Rotary Shack). Blow thorugh Nikkis are easier to set up, and in my opionion are better then a EFi set up, not to mention cheaper. I'll get some pics as soon as it is up and running. Youl also need a Malory fuel presure regulator, and a new fuel pump. Other then that, nothing else is needed.
Peace
I just swapped my 12a for a 12at. I pulled all the EFI crap and stuck a modified Nikki carb on there (curtosy of Rotary Shack). Blow thorugh Nikkis are easier to set up, and in my opionion are better then a EFi set up, not to mention cheaper. I'll get some pics as soon as it is up and running. Youl also need a Malory fuel presure regulator, and a new fuel pump. Other then that, nothing else is needed.
Peace
PS. Nice Sig 70+ 80!
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Well the engine is still in the works, just bolted it to the tranny on Sat. I'm planning on using a TII IC, so well see what happens. I'm going to dyno it as soon as its running. hopefully I'll be pushing 180hp. If youre thinking about doing a 12at swap talk to 680rwhp. I got my 12at from him and he did a excellent job on it.
Peace
Peace
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Instead having the pipe from the turbo go directly into the carb, it is first routed from the turbo through the IC, then from the IC, the cooled air is then pushed into the carb. Get it?
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Turbo 12a- thanks for the info on the IC set-up. I take it the turbo out put is forward to the righthand side of a IC, exiting on the leftside[looking forward] then curving over the engine to the top of the carb
Revhed- I was having difficulty visualising the necessary plumbing for a front mounted IC. You communicated with 680rwhp some weeks ago on the possibility of adding a turbo to your 48IDA, have you any further thoughts?
Revhed- I was having difficulty visualising the necessary plumbing for a front mounted IC. You communicated with 680rwhp some weeks ago on the possibility of adding a turbo to your 48IDA, have you any further thoughts?
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